hondaeg8

new rod and main bearings
new pistons and piston rings


how do i go about breaking in the motor once i start it up?

civictildeath

low rpm's and under 65 mph for 500 miles. dont go revving the crap out of it or driving real fast. start real easy, low *** rpm's. the closer to 500 miles, slowly build up. now at 500 miles, dont go redlining it and top speed you gotta build up to it basiclly

hondaeg8

damn..... so many different opinions.

some people say get on it right away after the first 10 minutes of warm up or so.


then other people say not to

d16y8EL

do it slowly, you'll **** your engine if you dont.

komat

i would let it idle for 30min
but thats me

then drive it slowly for the next 500miles or so

JDM Like Whoa

Dealer told me not to do any irrational driving for first 3k. Right when I left the dealer, I got on it. From what I was told and understand, the rings will seat alot better if you do this but once again, so many opinions.

After the 5 minute beat down, I took it easy.

It is also suggested that you downshift when coming to a stop.

DivineCivic

You should take it as easy as you can for, at LEAST 500 miles, if not more just to be on the safe side. The longer your new internals warm up and the longer they get familiar with your motor, the longer it should last without problems

SkRiBLaH

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ImportRacr05 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
It is also suggested that you downshift when coming to a stop.</TD></TR></TABLE>


don't ever do this to your car. its called compression braking and your forcing the engine to rev, with the throttle closed thus creating more vacuum.


doing this will slowly **** your engine

AutoXer

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SkRiBLaH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
don't ever do this to your car. its called compression braking and your forcing the engine to rev, with the throttle closed thus creating more vacuum.

doing this will slowly **** your engine</TD></TR></TABLE>

There's absolutely nothing wrong with engine braking. If you have an auto, your car does automatically at every stop.

Burke

engine braking WILL NOT **** UP YOUR ENGINE!!!! it is not physically possible for it to be creating ANY problem.

and i just rebuilt my motor - beat the living **** out of it since i pulled it out of my driveway
compression was about 200 psi accross after 100 miles. guess my rings seated
changed the oil too, looked REAL good

although my **** smokes cause of what looks like bad intake valve seal

Gizzo

Run at 2000rpms for 15 min on initial startup

hondaeg8

so many opinions

BLANKS143

read here

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=878397 written by one of the best engine builders.

lifendet

what engine?

92eh3si

http://www.importbuilders.com/breakin.html

READ that..

IS3Fifty

your motor will pretty much be alright if you give a good easy warm-up. its more based on the amount of time driven not really the mileage, drive you car around normally for a couple hours, unless it is fully built and it will be alright. Your not going to blow it up if you beat on it, before you reach a mileage mark. Its just to prevent idiots from destroying brand new internals before they have had time to absorb oil.

hondaeg8

i was thinking of just driving it around normal for a few hours. then every once in a while get the rpms up some until i eventually get the rpms way up there.

Built B16A

all of my engines ive let warm up for 15 mins or so, and then drove them 3-500 miles on the STREET! not highway.. you want to hit all waves of the RPM band, not just 4K all day long.

Frozen E

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92eh3si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
http://www.importbuilders.com/breakin.html

READ that.. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Jeff is building my motor.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by importbuilders.com &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What about the guy who told me I need to put 1000 miles on my motor before I tune it and that I need to "break it in"?
I will be blunt. That person is not educated on motors. With 1 exception...if that person told you to DYNO your motor at narrow throttle, that your going to be driving it for a few hundred miles, that's fine... However...I see a lot of people that customers "think" are smart and they are recommending 1000 mile break ins on built motors! That is the stupidest thing you could possibly do! When you hear terms like this, BEWARE and RUN THE OTHER WAY, or CLOSE YOUR EYES: "Just put in a base map, and break it in for xxxx miles, then go tune it, give the rings time to seat.." RUN!! CLOSE YOUR EYES! That is insane, stupid and ignorant all at the same time. Base Map? What the heck is that? When Honda tells you to put xxxx miles on your motor, or whatever, its completely tuned already with great air fuel ratio's. Do don't think for one second your base map is worth a damn, because it is a shot in the dark. It sucks UNLESS you went to a dyno and fully tuned your car at the RPM's and throttle position your driving it at with a wideband hooked up to the car. That chip your using is somebody's educated guess at what will run the car. Its not intended to drive on for any extended periods of time on! (I HOPE THEY TOLD YOU THIS, if they didn't... RUN!!) If you have no other option, a basemap can be used for getting your car a FEW miles straight to the dyno, but I am very against that even and a tow truck would be better.. This is a theme you all need to understand: "Don't start your motor unless you can adjust the air/fuel ratio to a reasonable number right away". Anything else is unwise, and foolish. Wideband cost like $350 shipped, just buy one for you and all your buddies to share. Best money you ever spent. </TD></TR></TABLE>