kpop

I just finished doing my 5 lug & brake swap and was trying to figure out why my brakes arent as sensitive as they once were before the swap. Bled the system twice and still not like it was. The brakes are really low for some reason
Are they any upgrades to the MC or the brake booster needed when swaping to itr brake system??

btw:swap went into 2000 Civic em1
Thanks guys

jtchinoy

did you remember to pump the brake with the cap off until the brake was as stiff as it could get?

pdiggitydogg

Youre using larger calipers than before.
Your 7/8 MC is too small...get an integra 1" or 15/16 MC (recommend the corresponding booster too)

I wrote a how-to on this swap - search for it

kpop

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jtchinoy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you remember to pump the brake with the cap off until the brake was as stiff as it could get?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, the cap was off throughout the bleeding process.

kpop

Great thanks for the info. What keywords should I use when for searching for your "how to swap". TIA

nosordi

I just completed this swap on my 2000 ek HB and here's how it went. after thoroughly bleeding all 4 wheels, I still had terrible brake pressure and pedal travel. the brake pedal would hit the floor and pedal feel was mush. so I adjusted the brake pedal height (made it higher from the floor) which allowed the push rod to push in the MC piston in farther. I got firmer pedal feel but it was less than ideal (like there was still air in the system). next I got a 1" MC/booster from a 98 teg/DC2. one of the brake line port at the new MC is 12mm. both the ek brake line compression fittings are 10mm. I had to cut one of the brake line, attach a 12mm compression fitting, then double flare the end of the brake line so that it would properly seal when attach to the 12mm port on the MC (you need a tube cutter and double flare tool kit to do this....I got both from Sears). you can skip all this extra work if you get a MC/booster from a 99+ teg or 99-00 civic si (15/16 " MC...also assuming you've got an ek as well). everything should bolt up nicely. after installing the 1" MC/booster, I played with the brake pedal height until I got the correct braking pressure. basically if the brake pedal sits higher, the push rod push in the MC more and more fluid goes to the calipers resulting in more firmer pedal pressure. if you lower the brake pedal height, the push rod push in the MC less resulting in less pedal pressure and also you're pedal would likely bottom out. Now my brake pedal pressure feels like stock but the stomping power is definitely better. BTW, buy the MC/booster as a complete unit because the push rod to MC piston clearance would be correctly set from the factory. if you mix and max MC and booster, you would have to set the clearance and that's a totally different animal by itself. I didn't even bother replacing the PV to a 40/40. if you need directions on how to adjust the brake pedal height by adjusting the push rod length, post reply. otherwise good luck.