Powelly

Hey guys in the process of putting together my SiR2 turbo and wondered what brake setups peeps are using.

Im aiming for around 300bhp on 14-15 psi once tuned and wondered if i could get away with using the standard calipers and just upgrade the discs & pads?

Did read a little regarding the integra type r caliper swap but seems to much of a ball ache also was told the prelude calipers are a straight swap on a eg which i don't believe but could be wrong.

Any help would be great, will post some pics of the car and parts ready to fit if anybodys interested.

t0p_sh0tta

All you need are decent pads. Just don't drive like a dick on the street.

Hawk, Porterfield, Axxis etc are all good. Do yourself a favor and stick with solid rotors also.

95vxtealhatch

Well since im not sure of what car your driving I will tell you all I can about brake upgrades as I have been doing some research myself. Depending on what you have brake wise depends on what you can upgrade to obviously. If you have a non abs civic, your more then likely using the 9.5" rotors. You can swap on integra front spindles wich incorperates the 10.3" front rotors like the abs civics have. If you want bigger then that Willwood makes brake upgrades for the civic in 11" and 12" i beleive. The only brakepad/rotor combo i am famialiar with is hawk HPS pads /brembo rotors. On my VX it stops me quick enough to continually chrip my 195/60/14 Falken Ziex's till i come to a stop. I don't have abs or anything either. When you heat up those hawk pads they grip even harder. The first inital Bite isn't very good when the pads are cold, I wish i knew of a pad that had a harder bite when it was cold.

StraightSlippin

iTrader: (3)

If you are rolling on the 10.3 or integra sized front spindles do this... Go to autozone, tell them you want a "front caliper loaded pair" for a 1999 Honda CRV (88$ for brackets, calipers, and brake pads). Buy 4 m10 washers. Buy you a set of *Prelude VTEC*** brake rotors, take them to a machine shop and have them drilled for 4x100 bolt pattern. At this point, go home place the washers on the spindle side of the spindle to caliper bracket. One per each bolt on each side, totalling 4 in all, 2 per side. Then bolt everything up, step back a little bit...and REJOICE! You now have ITR 11.1 inch brakes in the front...all for under what...250$ with new parts?

electron_si

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StraightSlippin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you are rolling on the 10.3 or integra sized front spindles do this... Go to autozone, tell them you want a "front caliper loaded pair" for a 1999 Honda CRV (88$ for brackets, calipers, and brake pads). Buy 4 m10 washers. Buy you a set of ITR brake rotors, take them to a machine shop and have them drilled for 4x100 bolt pattern. At this point, go home place the washers on the spindle side of the spindle to caliper bracket. One per each bolt on each side, totalling 4 in all, 2 per side. Then bolt everything up, step back a little bit...and REJOICE! You now have ITR 11.1 inch brakes in the front...all for under what...250$ with new parts? </TD></TR></TABLE>

i would never trust washers under my rotors in any situation.

StraightSlippin

iTrader: (3)

All the washers do is space out the bracket so the caliper is pushed back some, if you want to be extra super safe you could always machine a peice of metal to match the bracket and drill out the holes...but so far the washers seem to be a very cost effective alternative.

Skunk.Werks

iTrader: (2)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StraightSlippin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but so far the washers seem to be a very cost effective alternative.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Cost effective and BRAKES should not be in the same sentence

StraightSlippin

iTrader: (3)

Could you please explain why? Sounds like a very ignorant statement.

Ron454321

Brakes stop your car from throwing itself into another car. Why be cheap? Not ignorant to me. I don't see why the OP would ask what brakes for a certain HP anyway. I would ask weight/type of car/what you are using the car for.

StraightSlippin

iTrader: (3)

OP, if you want some proven brakes for a pretty good deal hit me up and I will try and help ya out. Nissin 9CLP14S calipers are what are on the ITR factory, and what is sold at autozone. Otherwise, buy spoon...WAIT! thats Nissin too &gt;&lt;

audiko4

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by electron_si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i would never trust washers under my rotors in any situation.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've used washers on my caliper bolts before and had no issues.

SleepstR88

flame flame flame

anything you will ever need to know about brakes is here. research it and i am sure the proper questions will come to you. gl

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1811368&page=1

philosofy1

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95vxtealhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well since im not sure of what car your driving.</TD></TR></TABLE>

sir2 (92-95 civic hatch)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Skunk.Werks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Cost effective and BRAKES should not be in the same sentence </TD></TR></TABLE>

agreed, when doing the brakes, they should be done properly. yes, washers might be working for some of you, but for how long?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StraightSlippin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OP, if you want some proven brakes for a pretty good deal hit me up and I will try and help ya out. Nissin 9CLP14S calipers are what are on the ITR factory, and what is sold at autozone. Otherwise, buy spoon...WAIT! thats Nissin too &gt;&lt;</TD></TR></TABLE>

let me advise you, nissin is what honda uses on all there calipers, not just for the itr. mine say nissin all over it and that is the front and rear calipers.

also he asked for a good set up. a gsr upgrade will do just fine, granted he will have to change out the prop valve, braided lines, upgrades M/C, get some good pads and rotors and he can call it a day.

StraightSlippin

iTrader: (3)

Multiple washers on a load bearing suspension component. Sold by a reputable company. Read into BrakeExperts upgrade crossover, 28T being add washer. Might want to correct him also.

Yes I know Nissin makes multiple calipers, my bike has Nissin calipers also. But not the 57mm piston Nissin 9CLP14S calipers.

And btw, GSR brakes are...LS brakes. People pay more for essentialy NO reason other than they came off of a GSR. But needless to say, I posted to try and help and possibly pass on some info. I am not trying to flame, add cool points or any of the sort. Just not trying to be walked over because someone looks at my post count. Being an og, I know how the game works.

Syndacate

Here, here's my usually hated ideology on brakes.

First off, drums &gt; disks - maybe not in how easy they are to maintenance, but in functionality they kick *** - only downside is they lock up twice as easy. Any big *** vehicle you look at (buses 'n ****) have drums - air drums - but drums none-the-less. Drums = Win .

Outside of that....keep 'em stock...

This is usually a BIG surprise to Honda go'ers as the usual ideology is that you NEED to be going AS FAST AS POSSIBLE, <U>ALWAYS</U> (which is why many non-honda owners hate Honda owners). The reality (as argued against by many ricer bastards) is you don't.

Now what does that have to do with anything?

Well quite simply - if you're driving in an area in congested with turn lanes and center turn lanes and more than one lane, etc. which usually have a ~45mph speed limit, driving more than 60 is just stupid.

So what it comes down to is the simple fact that just because your car CAN go fast doesn't mean you always NEED to drive it fast. Is it fun to pound the **** to the redline? Yeah - is it necessary to keep the pedal through the floor board? No.

So under the ideology that at some points in your life you shouldn't be at WOT you come to the conclusion that there is still a speed limit that should be recognized at least some of the time.

I don't know, maybe it's just me because I've owned a few domestics so my brain's not completely fried rice, but just because your car CAN go faster, doesn't mean you need a super brake setup. I see this **** so much, it's crazy. People are like "I just boosted my D16, what kinda brakes do I need."

Lemme clue you in bro, you can drop a 900HP K series in there and there's still no need to jack the brake setup.

philosofy1

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StraightSlippin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">[img]

And btw, GSR brakes are...LS brakes. People pay more for essentialy NO reason other than they came off of a GSR. But needless to say, I posted to try and help and possibly pass on some info. I am not trying to flame, add cool points or any of the sort. Just not trying to be walked over because someone looks at my post count. Being an og, I know how the game works.</TD></TR></TABLE>

we know you're not trying to flame, but at the same time, no one is walking on you either. IMO, i just don't feel comfortable adding washer or longer bolts on my brakes and suspension. now as for brakes go gsr brakes, ls brakes, si (92-95) brakes, si (99-00) brakes are all the same. i don't know anyone selling integra brakes more because it's from a gsr. but the stock system is quite good. there are other parts you can upgrade to assist in better braking. upsizing pads and rotors are the only solution.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I don't know, maybe it's just me because I've owned a few domestics so my brain's not completely fried rice, but just because your car CAN go faster, doesn't mean you need a super brake setup. I see this **** so much, it's crazy. People are like "I just boosted my D16, what kinda brakes do I need."

Lemme clue you in bro, you can drop a 900HP K series in there and there's still no need to jack the brake setup.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i can agree with you to an extent. i drove on my stock dx disc/drum set up for 3 years w/my b16, no need to upgrade being that at the time it was my DD. i upgraded because hopefully soon i can do some auto x, where upgrading my brakes will benefit. but if you have a 900hp civic, then you will have to upgrade you brakes some how. 9" dx rotors and drums aren't going to be sufficient.

wanting to go fast and wanting to stop fast has nothing to do with owning a honda.

Syndacate

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by philosofy1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i can agree with you to an extent. i drove on my stock dx disc/drum set up for 3 years w/my b16, no need to upgrade being that at the time it was my DD. i upgraded because hopefully soon i can do some auto x, where upgrading my brakes will benefit. but if you have a 900hp civic, then you will have to upgrade you brakes some how. 9" dx rotors and drums aren't going to be sufficient.

wanting to go fast and wanting to stop fast has nothing to do with owning a honda.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well if you're doing autoX that's something different. Only problem is most people think they're autoX'ing and they're just driving to wal-mart. And yeah, if you have a 900hp car, you may want a different brake setup - but I was just making an example.

philosofy1

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Well if you're doing autoX that's something different. Only problem is most people think they're autoX'ing and they're just driving to wal-mart. And yeah, if you have a 900hp car, you may want a different brake setup - but I was just making an example.</TD></TR></TABLE>

agreed, but i know the difference between auto x'ing and driving to walmart. this is why it is not my DD anymore.

Syndacate

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by philosofy1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

agreed, but i know the difference between auto x'ing and driving to walmart. this is why it is not my DD anymore. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Ha .

fatpride111

... just wanted to fit in