GnrlKll

Finally got around to redoing the brakes on my 98 Civic EX (no abs). Converted to rear disc (dont flame). New calipers, pads, rotors, and hoses at all four corners. Scarebird brackets. ATE super blue fluid to all four corners. Bled, bled, bled, and rebled. Have a mushy brake pedal to the floor and if you pump the brakes you get a little braking power.

Also, no visible leaks.

What could the issue be? Any opinions are welcome. Ive had one suggestion of a bad MC. Bad MC symptoms anyone?

Former User

Could be a bad master cylinder, though proper brake bleeding our Civics can be tricky. Did you bleed the wheels in the correct sequence?

MadVladCivic

Did you have any issues prior to changing your brakes?

Pump the brake pedal several times before engaging the ignition.
Does the pedal firm up and hold? Now, w/ your foot on the pedal,
turn the ignition over. Does the pedal yield somewhat or stay firm?
If yields, the brake booster is doing its job.

Does the pedal sink to the floor under constant application, eg, as at a
stoplight? Is it just a little more pedal travel than you'd like or
are accustomed to?

Is there an "aneurysm" (bulge) in one of the newly installed
hoses when the brake is applied?

Did you use a dead blow hammer to tap clinging air out of
the calipers as you began to bleed them? The level of brake
fluid did not drop to such a level so as to allow air to enter via the
MC during the bleeding process did it?
http://images.ibsrv.net/ibsrv/res/sr...ilies/thud.gif

A discussion of MC issues/diagnoses etc can be found at Tegger.com,
which is in the last section of the FAQ at this website.

MadVladCivic

Master cylinder troubleshooting:

http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/maste...ace/index.html

belairbrian

I just redid my brake system. 4 calipers, hoses, rotors, pads, Master cylinder.

Guessing when you got done changing all the parts the Master cylinder was empty? If so it probably should have been removed and bench bled.

I tend to go with mad vlad. Air in the calipers. But IF your changing everything else a MC should be replaced as well, unless it was already a newer unit.

After first bleed mine were "mushy" suspected air in calipers since they are going to get some foaming as the lines push fluid in at first. I let my sit for a couple of days and the tiny bubbles formed another big bubble at the bleeder screw. After re-bleeding nice firm pedal with engine off.

GnrlKll

Used a pressure bleeder the first time then bled them the old fashioned twice afterwards. Im thinking I may have forgotten to add fluid before pressurizing the master cylinder so probably plenty of air in there. Buying a new one from work today and will bench bleed and install. Post back afterwards. may be worth noting I put stainless braided hoses on.

Brakes were shot. Front pads were gone and back shoes were way out of adjustment so had a horrible brake pedal unless I pumped them up.

GnrlKll

Anyone ever ratchet up the parking brake on the new rear calipers before bleeding? Just checked into it and this may be my problem. It does not say to do so in the manual or any other guide i've read. But on scarebirds website they say to do that or I'll end up with a low pedal. That may be my problem.

Because the new master cylinder didnt change anything... Yes i bench bled the master cylinder for a good 20 minutes. Rebled all of the calipers. Still low pedal so im gonna have to drain the rear calipers the best I can and pull the e-brake a few times then rebleed.

GnrlKll

Seriously has anyone done the scarebird conversion? Everyones info on them seems so vague. How do the ebrake cables mount? just run them from inside, to the calipers? They look like something should hold them in place on the caliper or trailing arm. Not sure.