allmotorEG-SI

Ok i got a 94 civic SI with ABS. From what i have read in the other threads all tegs (excpet R) have the same brakes. But my Si has the same size brakes as the tegs. I got some ultimate axis ceramic pads and brembo blanks. But its not enough. the rotors already warped and i don't think the car stops fast enough. So what are my options. This is a daily driver and something i want to take to the tracks. These are the only things i could think of. ANy help/ideas/suggestions would be greatly appricaited.

--Type-R brakes?
--Aftermarket (brembo,wilson,etc...)
--slotted/cross drilled, better pads.

cxSHOE

you may also look into getting a bigger m/c and booster.... ive done the 13/16, 15/16 , 1" swaps all with gsr brakes and oem pads and i can say that now with the 1" m/c and booster setup it is night and day and the modulation is great.

allmotorEG-SI

well that isn't really a problem. It won't make me stop any faster and thats what i want. To be able to stop faster.

copperfox

are you SURE your si has ABS? ...cuz I was under the impression that only the EX had ABS as an option...

Also, braking distance is determined mostly by tires. So get really sticky tires (gonna be expensive).

Other than that, if you don't already have stainless steel brake lines, I suggest you buy some. They don't increase stopping power, but they do make the brake pedal "feel" better.

allmotorEG-SI

I am 100% positive that i have ABS. only the 94-95 hatch backs had it and it was an option. I am not sure if it was standard on SI's an option on all other trim levels or what. But I have used it many times. I know the difference i have even seen the little device under the hood that is labeled ABS right on it. So yes I do have it. Also 4 wheel disc brakes.

But i don't care too much about pedal feel. Also tires wear through so quickly i was thinking of getting some 15's with some good tires on them for just racing and keep my 14's for daily use.

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

Better tires = Car stops faster
Bigger rotors = Less fade Under repeated stops
Better Pads = Higher operating tempatures can be sustained
Better Fluid = No Boiling Fluid while operating under higher temp.
Better Calipers (multi piston) = Better pedal modulation
Better Brake Lines = Better pedal modulation

B18Cej1

i think that gsr's and actually all integras (minus r) from 94+ use the same size rotor as the si's and ex's, but the piston in the caliper is bigger on the integras. i did a gsr brake swap on my coupe, swapped the master cylinder and the brake booster too. i love the way my car stops, u get a better response from the pedal and the car stops a lot faster.

h22John

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Evs-One &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

rotors do NOT effect fade. </TD></TR></TABLE> BIGGER rotors most certainly do by dissipating heat better with more material. A car will also stop faster with bigger rotors due to greater mechanical advantage, however that advantage is usually almost unnoticable......................John

lollypopking

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Evs-One &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Changing Master CYlinders effects modulation control more than most any other area. </TD></TR></TABLE>

what do you mean by "modulation control"?

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

This info is all mixed up...

A smaller master cylinder doesn't require more pressure, it requires more travel to generate the same pressure. That is bad if you run out of travel before enough pressure is built up.

Master Cylinder Size = Overall Pedal travel

Bigger rotors only serve to add heat capacity. The more rotor mass you have, the more heat storage you have, and that will lower the operating temperature at any given time (Thus fade resistance due to cooler pads ). Bigger rotors will actually increase your stoping distance due to more rotational mass. And don't think since you have aluminum hats it will offset that larger mass. The main problem will be the fact that the additional mass is located further from the center, making it harder to stop.

JeffS

What a clusterfuck of a thread... half the answers are just plain wrong - and the only people that will be able to tell the facts from the BS won't need to read it to start with.

<FONT COLOR="blue">The easiest thing to do is ignore prettymuch everything Evs-One has posted.</FONT>

----------

Anyway, my advice would be to buy some decent pads and plain rotors. You claim to have already done that though. What tires are you running? Tires and pads... that's about all there is. Dropping a bunch of money on a brake kit isn't going to help anything.

[edit] you can't really have daily driver AND track pads. Street pads won't hold up on the track, and track pads aren't well suited for the street. What are you REALLY using the car for? I suppose you can always go get something like a Carbotech Panther+ pad if you don't mind the dusting and squealing.

Solracer

I agree with Jeff, I would get some new rotors and some new fluid and then see what happens, even though fluid dies not effect stopping power, old fluid can have a real effect on pedal feel and fade.

lollypopking

ya'll seem to know about hybrid braking systems, so could someone answer my questions in this thread?

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1096122

thanks.

allmotorEG-SI

new fluids is a must.
i just got new rotors a month or 2 ago, brembo blanks. But they got too hot too easily and warped too easily too. I'm using axis ultimate pads, ceramics. They work well for the street but do you think they are good enough for the track.

Also what "94eg!" said about having a bigger rotor actually increases stopping distance. That seems way wrong. If that was the case then wouldn't the smaller the rotor the greater the stopping distance, wait why stop there. Why don't we just get rid of brake rotors all togather...becuase all they do is hold heat.

Evs-One

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JeffS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
<FONT COLOR="blue">The easiest thing to do is ignore prettymuch everything Evs-One has posted.</FONT>

----------

</TD></TR></TABLE>

sorry, I have my own opinions....ASE in brakes, Honda cert. in brakes....still an idiot tho . I don't spend time reading what I write, I sort of blab and use whatever comes to mind. Sorry hunny

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=659063

Solracer

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Evs-One &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

sorry, I have my own opinions....ASE in brakes, Honda cert. in brakes....still an idiot tho . I don't spend time reading what I write, I sort of blab and use whatever comes to mind. Sorry hunny

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=659063</TD></TR></TABLE>

That thread makes alot more sense then what you were saying in this thread.


Modified by Solracer at 10:57 AM 12/29/2004

mike1114

iTrader: (1)

Certian Legends have two piston calipers in the front, I believe they bolt up to teggy spindles??? This I've heard improves braking dramatically.

One other thing to note, does the SI Hatch have a 40/40 prop valve? This may help a lot too if it does not.

Just a shameless plug here; I have a vatozone (never used) 15/16 brake master cylinder if anyone is interested. Hit me up.