saber1

I recently purchased an Integra brake swap (front and rear) for my 93 DX. I have a few questions.

1. I'm not sure if they sent me the hardware from a car with ABS. How will I know by looking at it?

2. If it is from an ABS equipped car, will I need to use a different booster, master cylinder, or proportioning valve since my car does not have ABS?

3. If I need to use the different pieces mentioned in #2, where would you recommend I purchase them.

I am also swapping in an Integra suspension, inserting poly bushings and stainless brake lines. Any other helpful advice is much appreciated. Thanks for your help.

spoon_ek9

there is not much difference between abs and non-abs. if u get a abs brake, the way of the brake swap is the same as non-abs one...........

saber1

I had heard that a different master cylinder or prop. valve would need to be used if using parts from an ABS car but not using the ABS.


[Modified by saber1, 8:58 PM 11/8/2002]

saber1

Anyone else know about this?

Ricey McRicerton

Talk to our friendly mod...b18c5-eh2.....he knows about everything you could ever want to know about brakes on civics!

B18C5-EH2

Okay first of all most 1994-up Integras are ABS. The only one that wasn't was the base model, the RS.

As far as bolting up the front spindles and complete rear trailing arms assys with everything, all 1994-up Integra stuff bolts up the same. It bolts right up to any 1992-1995 civic chassis just as the stock Civic brakes came off.

As far as ABS goes and HAVING to run a different booster and master cylinder, that's not true. Your stockie stuff will work, but if you want optimal performance then try this:

1. 1991 Civic EX 4-door 15/16ths master cylinder. It is supposed to bolt right up to your existing Civic booster.

2. Get the booster and master cylinder off an Integra RS. Let me repeat Integra RS only!!! The LS, GS-R, ITR, etc. are all ABS thus making you have to bend and/or flare line(s) deoending on year and it's just a pain in the *** to do so. Get the RS stuff and the booster bolts right onto your firewall, and then the RS M/C bolts up to the RS booster and you'll have a kick-*** pedal feel and what seems to be better braking overall. It's often hard to find RS parts because they are somewhat rare, or just because the salvage yards don't understand the differences, so here's something else you can do:

3. Get an LS booster (much more common) from a yard. Buy the RS master cylinder brand new for like $160.00 list (can be found chepaer) and then it will bolt up to the LS booster.

BUT!!!

Some boosters have a slightly longer rod on them, so there's a way to test yours. Fit the RS M/C up against the booster as if you were going to bolt it up. If the M/C fits flush with no problems, you can go ahaead and bolt it right up. But if it feels like you have to push on it to fit flush - like it feels spring-loaded - then you will simply have to trim 3/4 of an inch off of the booster rod that's on the engine bayl side of the booster. Takes 5 minutes and will save you from having the brakes lock up on your first test drive. Don't ask me how I know.

Add in any 1994-1995 RS, LS, or GS-R proportion valve and you're all set. You might could use other years, but I know for sure the ones I just listed work. I do know that at some point the prop valve changed and is not usuable, but i'm not 1005 sure which year it started.

I guess that about covers it - any questions?

Hatchy-Ownzjo0

Just bolt it up and dont mess with the ABS part of it.. I have GSR brakes on my VX hatch.. works just fine.. stops on a ******* dime.. i love it! It's great to see the reaction of peoples faces in my car.. they never think im gonna stop at stop signs and lights.. LoL! I can literally go from 60 mph to 0 in about 10 - 20 feet.. its awesome!

DX Hybridizer

b18c5-eh2 surely knows his stuff. I did a GSR rear swap into my eh and I went through a set of rear pads in 8 miles. After a nice tow home and swearing and what not I came on here looked up a couple good posts talked to b18c5-eh2. He told me about checking the Master cylinder to booster. And sure enough guess what that was my problem.

I'm running a GSR REAR end had abs I just removed all the peices, a 4040 RS Porpotioning valve, a GSR booster and a 15/16th I assume RS? Master cylinder all bolts right up no flaring or bending. Since it's crap out already here in MICHIGAN I won't get to fully try it out tell next spring probably. But the trimming the booster rod down seems to have fixed my issues.

saber1

Thanks to all who responded. My questions have been answered. to honda-tech.com!