TXDelSol

OK, my rotors are "warped" and my pads are almost gone and my front right caliper is leaking. I have a new caliper already and pads but i cant take my rotors off to get resurfaced until 2morrow. Will it hurt the new pads if i go ahead and put them on the warped rotors and drive on them for a day until i can get my rotors resurfaced 2morrow? And does NE1 know where there is a good write up on how to change a caliper. Its a 94 del sol si. All help is appreciated.

TXDelSol

I am worried about the bleeding the brakes part of changing the caliper. Never done this b4 and i dunno how hard it is. When changing the caliper can u just pinch off the brake line and then bleed just that one or do u still need to bleed all the brakes?

Chris y0!

get new rotors. resurfacing wont help a warped one.

TXDelSol

Anyone know where to find or can give me a detailed write up on how to replace the front caliper and bleeding the brakes. This would be extremely appreciated.

greebler

read my sig.

clm

Your local library will probably have the Haynes or Chilton manual for your car.

Kamin

um please enlighten me with your massive knowledge of this subject.
because i have had warped rotors, and seen actual deflections on the contact surface.

and bleeding the brakes isnt hard, this is the easiest way to do it.
open the bleeder valve, have someone hold the brake pedal down, close the bleeder valve, release the brake

repeat that till no bubbles come out, and make sure the brake is pushed slowly.

tominos

you want someone to hold the brakes down first before you open the valve, otherwise air will enter the system. be sure to check your master cylinder to see that you don't run out of fluid and the mc is empty, keep adding fluid in there. if your rotors are warped, take them to a machine shop to get them turned, thats if the rotors still have enough material on them.

TXDelSol

Ok and i am only replacing the front right caliper so i should only have to open the bleeder on the front right correct? Or should i go ahead and blead all the brakes?? Im not that familiar with how brake lines work ect. This is the last question (i think ) Thanks guys. Tons of help.

TXDelSol

anyone help me out?

EK MONEY

iTrader: (5)

get a manual

TXDelSol

Thats a great idea captian obvious. But im low on money thats why im tryin to do my brakes myself and i dont have money to get a manual either. But... i just got back from the library and they had a chiltons manual for civic/prelude/accord/del sol and it had what i needed. Thanks. P.S.....i plan on getting a manual as soon as i get the $$. Doin the brake job 2morrow. Il let yall know.

gohandbz8

Well I believe that you should be fine just bleeding the new caliper you are installing. I did that a few months ago and its still fine (although I bleed all my brakes before that). To be on the safe side I would go ahead and bleed all 4 brakes. Better safe than sorry.

About the rotors, I suggest you go ahead and buy some new blanks at like autozone for like 30 bucks I think.

Bleeding the brakes are pretty simple.
1. Have a friend get in the car to pump the brakes a feel time and then hold onto the pedal.
2. While your friend has the pedal pressed down, open the bleeder valve with an open-end wrench (dont forget to attach a tube to the end of the valve unless you like messy jobs).
3. Close the valve and repeat until you don't see bubbles coming out anymore.

Hope this helps and good luck

mrlegoman

Buy new rotors.
Install both calipers, then bleed all four brakes.
There has been tons of topics on brake bleeding. Just remember that when tighting the bleeders you don't need to put a death grip on them. Or they'll strip a little and let air in. If you can find a copy of a Helm's manual for proper torques on ALL you caliper bolts, you'll be in the clear.


[Modified by mrlegoman, 9:32 AM 2/18/2003]

kommon_sense

If they do it that way then how are they supposed to press the petal while the bleeder screw is open? Think about it. If it is already depressed, then when they open the valve, you have to release the brake which will suck air into the system.

1 - You loosen the bleeder screw
2 - Press the brake pedal
3 - Tighten the bleeder screw
4 - Release the brake pedal

TXDelSol

Ok well i got the pads on no problem and had to use an impact screwdriver to get the rotors off and those are all good as well but i will be gettin some blanks soon. I decided not to **** with the caliper 2day cuz it started getting dark. Put everything back on, went to back out and i had no brake pressure. After pumping them a few times it got a little better and i had like half the pedal that works and it was safe enough to drive home (which i did) My friend loosened the wrong bolt on the caliper that was leaking and brake fluid started leaking everywhere so im sure air got in that way. I will be replacing the caliper and bleeding the brakes 2morrow, im pretty sure i know what to do and i am comfortable with it. But will it hurt the brakes any more to drive to school and back home 2morrow (about 5 miles total) cuz i will be bleeding them after school. I dont want to really screw up my brakes. Will it hurt them to drive with only half of the depression of the pedal working or shud i be ok?

tominos

i've learned to step on the brakes first, then have someone open the bleeder valve, then when pedal sinks down, tighten up the bleeder screw, and release pedal, then press pedal again, and repeat until new fluid comes out. is this the wrong way? b/c it has worked fine for me so far.

i dunno, maybe we're saying the same thing.

TXDelSol

What about if i can drive to school 2morrow or not? Anyone know?

TXDelSol

ttt

euclid

i think stop-tech's website has a detailed page about why there is no such thing as warped rotors, i read it awhile ago, but ill look for it.

Happyman

My friend, bleeding is simple. Get someone to pump up the pedal 3-5 times and on the last time have them hold down. Open the bleed nipple and let the stream come out. You will probably see air in the stream. Make sure to close the nipple before the flow stops so you don't suck air back in. Repeat until you have a clean stream with no air. Make sure you bleed both sides! Also, replacing a caliper is pretty simple. I'd say the hardest part is the fitment onto the caliper craddle and getting the craddle bolts to line up. If you'd like me to go over step by step PM me and I will try to help as best as possible.

Edit: If the rotors are warped then I'd suggest getting new ones. Resurfacing is really only for rusted rotors and rotors that have slight grooves in them. But hey, it's your life.


[Modified by Happyman, 7:20 PM 2/18/2003]

euclid

you are one step closer to enlightenment.
http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/...otors_myth.htm

TXDelSol

On my first post for this topic u will see that the word waped is in quotation marks, i did this because of lack of a better word. They arent really warped they just need to be turned but i will be getting brembo blanks soon. Thanks for all the help on this subject, i am now completely comfortable bleeding and replacing the caliper. Just that i cant do it til 2morrow. Il post the outcome, hopefully i wont screw up. peace