wmertz187

Well i recently replaced both rear calipers on my 92 civic hatch with 98 ls rear discs. Along with that came new pads and rotors.

Went on fine and then bleeded from passenger side over the drive side and now they seem like the are not releasing the pressure.

Disconnected the e-brake cable to make sure it wasn't that still same problem. The passenger side i can not spin at all and the driver side i can spin but its rediculously hard.. Any ideas?

wmertz187

bump

wmertz187

bump it up

instructor74

How did you push the caliper puck back in? Did you turn it in as you pushed it back in until it was flush with the caliper?

wmertz187

they were new calipers so they were already compressed

philosofy1

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by instructor74 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How did you push the caliper puck back in? Did you turn it in as you pushed it back in until it was flush with the caliper?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

the only way to push it in is to turn it, there is no other way.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wmertz187 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well i recently replaced both rear calipers on my 92 civic hatch with 98 ls rear discs. Along with that came new pads and rotors.

Went on fine and then bleeded from passenger side over the drive side and now they seem like the are not releasing the pressure.

Disconnected the e-brake cable to make sure it wasn't that still same problem. The passenger side i can not spin at all and the driver side i can spin but its rediculously hard.. Any ideas?</TD></TR></TABLE>

you didn't let the resevoir run dry did you? are you sure all the air is out of the lines? the brake fluid should ooze out, not spray out.

wmertz187

well it shot out not really oozed out.. but what woudl that mean

instructor74

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by philosofy1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

the only way to push it in is to turn it, there is no other way.

.</TD></TR></TABLE>

No kidding but I have seen people just try to push them back in and brake the ebrake mech causing the type of problem that he is having

spazjensen

Same proplem wiht happened about 6 months ago. Turned out that my master cylinder was shot. Had to replace the thing for $60. Problems fixed for me.

wmertz187

would that cause your front brakes not to work as well?

wmertz187

bump

GSaura

yeah it'd cause your front brakes to stop working too. Did you check the fluid level in the M/C and check for leaks?

wmertz187

front brakes work.. fluid is there and i dont see any leaks.. theres a strong ammount of fluid comin out the bleeder

95dxsir2

front brakes work and your still having the same problem, are u upgrading from drum or replacing?

I tried collapsing a cobalt ss rear caliper, i was like WTF, then i saw the slot for a large screwdriver . learning experience.

wmertz187

they were on the car since i had it.. the brakes worked previously, the car sat for a lil while i built my engine

I dolied the car to where my engine was to put it in and notice the one caliper was siezed.. Replaced and now i have the problem.

Stainless steel lines.. the reseivor was full at all times.. it does not make sense

instructor74

It really sounds like you got a bad remanufactured caliper. I would pull it and get nother one. I have gotten bad remans before

wmertz187

well i took notice that the caliper pulls the rotor in on one sidew causing the other side of the rotor to kick out and the piston is collapsed all the way