724chris

its a vx with drums in the back. i replaced the master cylinder 2 times.i bled the brakes like crazy and still nothing.what else could it be..

Gunmetal_B20_Hatch

iTrader: (9)

rear brake shoe adjustment.

Did you bench bleed the BMC before ou installed?

724chris

i checked the rear brakes and adjusted them. and ya i bench bled the mc. im not using any fluid so i dont think theres a hole in a line and there isnt a vaccume leak.. i cant figure it out

724chris

anyone?

1gEF-8

you're not using any fluid. that's your problem. check your wheel cylinders.

724chris

i meant to say im not loosing any haha

gixxerboy750

some times you need to unloosen one of the lines to the master real quick like your bleeding a caliper. Just have someone pump the breaks like your bleeding them then hold the pedal down and open on of the lines till you see fluid coming out then close it. Keep on till you feel something.

gixxerboy750

or feel a pedal

724chris

i did that a bunch of times and the pedal got harder but didnt get that hard. as soon as i started it it went to the floor again.

Del Namco Solo

I say bad break booster............

That or you are bleeding them wrong.

724chris

not bleeding them wrong.. wouldnt a bad brake booster just make the pedal harder?

civicek96

can yout tell us the porcedure you are doing ?

DCRB

man i always bleed the brakes with the car on, because with out the vacuum pull on the booster the pedal gets way to stiff, then sloppy when the car is started...

724chris

i leed the farthest wheel from the mc first like your supposed to.ill try bleeding it while its running

Del Namco Solo

I wouldn't bleed the breaks with the car on, no mechanic in his right mind would.

The reason the petal gets stiff is because the pressure is building in the break line. My only advice for bleeding is to have one guy pump until the petal is rock solid and then hold, bleed the brake for only a few seconds then tighten the bleeder, then have him pump again.

My friend did my brakes and I was mad pissed. I was pumping and holding, but after holding the petal down he would let it bleed A LOT for a good time and then re-tighten, this will produce soft breaking which I personally do not like.

Scream "pump it". Guy in the car should yell back "pumped". Then you scream "hold it", and the guy in the car should scream "holding". Then, release the valve for only a few seconds, then re-tighten, and keep doing until there is no air bubbles. This "quick" release keeps the pressure just right, and will give you a tighter petal feel.

DO NOT bleed with the car on, when you step on the brakes in the car, there is a circulation about it, this circulation is cut off while the car is off, if you bleed them while the car is on, you won't get as accurate a bleed. SOME people who have done it this way, ended up with their brakes failing on them during a hard brake moment and ended up crashing, but that is up to you......

If you really want to ensure proper bleeding, take a water bottle and fill it about half way with brake fluid, hook a hose to your brake bleeder, and then as you release the valve you won't have to worry about a "back splash" of sorts (cant think of the word) and air wont accidentally go back in (this technique is also used for clutches since you don't want air to go back in while bleeding.)

724chris

i do have someone help me the problem is it wont get hard like its supposed to

Gunmetal_B20_Hatch

iTrader: (9)

lots of really stupid posts in here... Bleeding with the car running??? WTF?

In all honesty, I think you may be bleeding incorrectly...

Also, are you using a NEW or REMAN Master Cyl?

1gEF-8

have you checked your wheel cylinders??

some cars do require you to bleed the brakes with the car running. but not a civic.

newtron63h

couldnt be a booster. when changing the master cylinder you probably got some air in the lines............which now have to travel all the way to your bleeder. i would fill your fluid, bleed the right rear until you would have used all the fluid in the reservoir(but dont let it run dry) keep adding until youve used "a reservoir full". then move to the left rear and do the same. then the right front, then the left front. this should ensure that you have no air in the system. then go from there.

724chris

well today i got back to it and it seems like when i hit the pedal no fluid comes out of the driverside rear bleeder. and then a little will come out. it has to be a big *** air pocket or idk what.. any ideas?

724chris

is there a way to bleed the porportion valve?

Mhondatech

if you have no or little fluid coming from the wheel cylinder bleeder pull the bleeder all the way out and try if still no fluid crack the line loose and check also check the oneway valve in the vacuum line for booster it will also cause a no pedal.

724chris

what exactally do i have to do to check the one way valve? that is one thing i havnt checked

newtron63h

take it out and blow through it both ways, it shouldnt let any air one way and should let air the other way.

724chris

proem fixed. i think it was a combination of things from the jackass b4 me owning it. i think it was a bad mc, i changed the callipers they were froze up and rotors and pads. works like a charm now