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Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000) EG/EH/EJ/EK/EM1 Discussion

Brake Diagnosis

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Old 05-03-2010, 08:12 PM
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Default Brake Diagnosis

94 EJ1, non-ABS, rear drums.

Normally my brakes work fine. All new front hardware, all new drums and shoes, bled, adjusted by pro. They stopped really well. But today, it seems that after driving 30 miles in warm temperature (75) the pedal wanted to go to the floor at idle. There was some pressure when I was going and stopping, though I had to pump the pedal, but it floored when I was stopped and the brakes lost their grip (had to chicken stick it on a hill - E-brake cables are fine).

It's weird because the car was braking fine when it was 50 this morning. Fluid level is fine, no lights in the dash came on. I didn't get under it this evening, but there were no leaks 2 days ago when I was under it. I'll check tomorrow for leaks. I did the car on and off pedal test: firm when car is off, barely moves when started up (1/2 inch), firm when held and car is on (50 outside now). I'd like to try this when it's warmer and the car's been driven, but that sounds like a bad idea.

Also, I've read through dozens of posts and was hoping for more diagnostic techniques. I'd rather not start replacing parts until I know one is bad (i.e, MC).
Old 05-03-2010, 08:15 PM
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Default Re: Brake Diagnosis

Look for leaks (MC, calipers, wheel cylinder, hoses). If none is found, thoroughly bleed the system.
Old 05-03-2010, 08:27 PM
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Default Re: Brake Diagnosis

had the same issue with a foucs i did the breaks on the other day. It ended up just needing a really good bleeding. pedal felt fine when car was off but as soon as i started driving the pedal went to the floor. start with the corner the furthest from the MC.
Old 05-04-2010, 05:00 AM
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Default Re: Brake Diagnosis

if all else fails check your brake lines, calipers, and master cylinder reservoir cap (the rubber boot) for leaks/movement. you will need another person to sit in the car and while the calipers are off check for movement. helped a friend back in feb. change brakes and the passenger caliper seized up.
Old 05-05-2010, 08:27 PM
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Default Re: Brake Diagnosis

Ok, so no leaks anywhere. I bled the breaks following the service manual. Plenty of pressure with the car off, plenty with it on and running, and no softness in the pedal until it's heated up and driven for a bit.

I think the biggest clue is that when I stop and go it's a little harder getting started and the passenger front side has a squeak/chirping for the first 20ft or so. I can't really tell that it's pulling to that side, but the chirping disappears and only restarts after the pedal is floored at a stop. So, I'm guessing that the caliper is slightly seizing, meaning its got to go?
Old 05-05-2010, 08:59 PM
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Default Re: Brake Diagnosis

Originally Posted by syvpunk
had the same issue with a foucs i did the breaks on the other day. It ended up just needing a really good bleeding. pedal felt fine when car was off but as soon as i started driving the pedal went to the floor. start with the corner the furthest from the MC.
sorry my friend but u are wrong on the bleeding procedure for honda's.... the correct procedure is

1. right rear
2.left front
3.left rear
4.right front
Old 05-08-2010, 08:52 PM
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Default Re: Brake Diagnosis

So I swapped out the calipers. Initial test drive indicates the problem is fixed -- good pressure after driving and no squeaking upon starting to move. Seems it was the front right caliper slightly seizing. Thanks for the responses.
Old 05-08-2010, 11:11 PM
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Default Re: Brake Diagnosis

Originally Posted by tico
sorry my friend but u are wrong on the bleeding procedure for honda's.... the correct procedure is

1. right rear
2.left front
3.left rear
4.right front
I'd like to point out he said start with the "Furthest corner from the MC" The right rear is the furthest from the MC. So he IS right.
And one more thing, Haynes manual says Start with furthest one from MC and work your way to closest one to MC. Given that, it would be
1. Right Rear
2. Left Rear
3. Right Front
4. Left Front.

Think before you speak.
Old 05-09-2010, 05:03 AM
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Default Re: Brake Diagnosis

I was going to say that something was sticking and boiling the brake fluid, causing the mushy pedal.

I was going to suggest test driving the car in a safe location near where you'd be working on the car, then after the brake pedal went soft do some further checking. First you can jack the car up and spin each wheel individually to see if any are binded up, which would indicate sticking caliper or drum.

If no wheels are stuck at that moment then remove the wheels and see if any corner of the brakes felt hotter than the others. Ideally a surface temp gun with a laser on it would be ideal, but you can also feel the heat by holding your hand close to the rotors/drums and sometimes you can even see blueing from overheating.

Obviously you found the problem, which is great. How did you find it?
Old 05-11-2010, 11:06 AM
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Default Re: Brake Diagnosis

B18C5-EH2: I just drove it slowly around the side streets, hoping to recreate the problem, with hand on the E-brake. It happened again - floored brake pedal @ light. So, I rolled down the windows and heard the right front squeaking after I started up from a stop, but the noise went away after about 20ft. So, I thought it was the caliper. It didn't really pull, though.

No more squeaking or soft pedal so far. I'll have the brakes inspected by a pro soon just to be sure.
Old 05-12-2010, 08:48 AM
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Default Re: Brake Diagnosis

I was going to agree with B18's first sentence. But his second is very true. My friends brake pedal goes to the floor only if he turns sharp. I think he's pinching a line though when he turns.
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