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Bore my block yes or no

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Old 11-03-2005, 03:34 PM
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Default Bore my block yes or no

I bought a used D16Y8 for my forged internals project

I have about a grand in my paypal account to buy some rods and pistons

now If I pop the head off how can I tell what size pistons to order?
I'm hoping to get by on SD size because boring the block costs and takes more time


feedback appreciated
Old 11-03-2005, 03:36 PM
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Default Re: Bore my block yes or no (Civic Racer X 7)

I heard it's pointless on a SOHC. I don't know why , but I saw it on here.
Old 11-03-2005, 07:10 PM
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well if your cylinders are worn enough its mandatory not pointless lol
Old 11-03-2005, 07:24 PM
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Well. if you bought the y8 stock then the piston size is 75mm. Thats standard size.
Old 11-03-2005, 07:47 PM
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soch is another way of spellin suck
Old 11-03-2005, 08:31 PM
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Default Re: (allmotorgizzles)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by allmotorgizzles &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">soch is another way of spellin suck</TD></TR></TABLE>

Why is it that so many idiots find their way out of the woodwork? H-T should have a IQ test, and its S O H C, not soch or sock or whatever you feel like spelling.

I couldnt tell by what you read if you had already made up your mind on it but If you want power on a single, boost it. You'll be happier.

Old 11-03-2005, 08:34 PM
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Default Re: (allmotorgizzles)

Bore and Hone are 2 different things. Your thinking of hone (which i highly recommend when your going to up the pistons and rods). Bore is when you want it bigger which will cost more then a hone. If you want to stay stock size then just get it honed.
Old 11-04-2005, 03:00 AM
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so If I order STD size pistons without removing the head and doing some measuring I'll be ok?

I seriously doubt its ever been bored out
Old 11-04-2005, 04:10 AM
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you should be
Old 11-04-2005, 04:25 AM
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Default Re: (JDMracer17)

NO NO NO NO NO....

Dont order pistons without checking the bore!

What if you are past out of round tolerance? Then you are stuck with the standard sized pistons and rings...

You need to have the block checked BEFORE you start ordering... That includes bearings... Otherwise, you might be rebuilding the engine again in a few thousand miles...

Dont half-*** it. If you never intend to turbo or build a monster engine, than I can see no reason to change the stock rods. For that matter, if you are not sure exactly what you want to do with the engine, then buying new pistons may be a waste of cash as well if your cylinders are alright.

What exactly are you trying to do? I am just trying to help you save your money and point you in the right direction....
Old 11-04-2005, 07:48 AM
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well I have money in my paypal and found some good endyn pistons for a good deal as wel as some eagle rods

Im shootin for 270HP turbo D16Y8
already got my turbo kit assdembled and ready to go
.48 60 trim T3

but i cant erally drop my motor off at the shop yet because they want al this money up front and i just wanna order my parts first

What if I take the head off and check the bore with a micrometer 75mm

if its 75mm then can I order STD size
Old 11-04-2005, 07:53 AM
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Default Re: (Civic Racer X 7)

It doesnt cost alot to get the block measured and honed. Its less then 100 bucks. Dont be lazy.

If you buy pistons right now and your block is a different bore, or the walls are messed that they need to get bored then youll be paying alot more then you want to match the block to the pistons.

matching block to pistons = wrong ghetto way to build

matching pistons to block = correct good way to build.

This is my last time telling you, if you want to go against what im saying and everyone else is saying have at you.
Old 11-04-2005, 08:23 AM
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Default Re: (Luserkid)

i would listen to this guy.

if you dont wanna spend the extra money now to have it checked, how would like like to spend the extra money later when something gets fucked up?
Old 11-04-2005, 09:03 PM
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Default Re: (93egsedan)

If you have a set of mics or have a friend that has a good set, you can check it yourself. You will want to check the bore diameter size (Side to side; perpendicular to the crank) and check for roundness (Side to side number minus front to back number)

The reason you check bore diameter perpendicular to the crank is because your bore will have a better tendancy to wear on the torque side of the cylinder wall.

When checking for out of roundness, you take the diameter perpendicular to the crank (Minus) the number you get in line with the crank. The difference is how much out of round it is.

I like to take these readings just below any ridge in the cylinder wall and about 1 ince from the bottom of the cylinder (Where the compression rings would be when the piston is all the way down in it's bore.

This will give you a pretty good indication of how worn the cylinder is, and a helms or shop manual will be able to list the tolerance for your application.

Write your information down for each cylinder... It's cool to reference this when you blueprint your engine later.

Once that is done, you can check the crank in a similar fashion.

Dont forget to check each rod as well. Even if you are getting new ones. I have had new (High priced) rods come that needed resizing!

The time and effort you put into checking will pay huge dividends in the future, and if something ever fails you can almost always go back to your blueprint card and tell what happened before you open the block back up. Besides, it gives you piece of mind when you are turning that bad boy 8-9grand!

And you can tell all your friends with confidence that you are a real mekanick, not just a parts swapper!
Old 11-05-2005, 05:33 AM
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well I just dropped it off at the engine builders
$110 to bore all 4 cylinders
I guess I might as well go with a fresh bore
.20 over
Old 11-05-2005, 10:14 PM
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Default Re: Bore my block yes or no (Civic Racer X 7)

that was pretty bold...
Old 11-06-2005, 04:11 AM
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Why?
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