maal15

i have a concern im boosting the y8 and its my daily driver. how long can i drive it un tuned without a problem. im only gonna run 5lbs till i get the rest of my parts (connecting rods, pistons, and injectors.

93egSLEEPER

I wouldnt ever run a boosted motor untuned period. I would just wait to get the motor built and do it right.

96hb

About as long as it takes to blow it up. Do not do this. You will regret it. Just wait and do it all right the first time. Hell even driving on a basemap is risky, let alone NO tune at all.

RotaryPWR

i wouldn't run any turbo setup on stock injectors...no matter what level of boost. i don't think it's smart (i can't tell you if their max flow capacity is sufficient for low boost off the top of my head).. just pick up some DSM injectors...should be easy enough to find.

i also wouldn't drive it very much without a tune. nothing more than the drive to the tuner's shop.

you probably don't have to be quite as safe as i am, but i'd rather save myself the trouble of blowing something, making my car unusable for who knows how long and adding to the cost big time..

i would say do it the right way from the start. buy all the parts you need for a reliable setup, then slap them on together all at once. then drive straight to the tuner running the base map (towing is even safer). that way you're sure to have 0 problems and the least amount of car downtime!! the goal for a dd is to keep it reliable..don't mess around!

maal15

so a no go great. so now that turbo set up is complete i have to wait a little longer this sucks. so what are my options besides tuning can i run a FMU cause i think my ECU is in but i dont know how to tune.

mikej94civex

there is a "forced induction" section with plenty of nice, knowledgable ppl and an 'faq' for guys like you, try
lookin there...also go to www.homemadeturbo.com and there is a section on engine management
stating at the very LEAST u need an fmu or afc to provide the needed fuel per postive mani pressure (boost)

mikej94civex

ENGINE MANAGEMENT- ok, you're going to need a way to deliver extra fuel to your car once it leaves vacuum and goes in to boost (more air = need more fuel obviously). there are many ways to go about this and i'm not going to go in to depth, this are requires you to SEARCH extnesively to find out how each works and what's best for your application, i'll will break it down with a 'short' summary of the most common methods.

fmu = a mechanical device that raises fuel pressure per amount of boost that it sees via a vacuum/boost source. very cheap, very unreliable, very primitive, no way to tune, very shitty. good for about 7 psi. 'safely'. not reccomended. price = $60-$100

(s/v)afc 'hack' = this is use in conjuntion with bigger injectors to deliver more fuel, you use the afc to control how much extra fuel the injectors will deliver. pretty expensive and not all that great, it advances timing and unless you use a timing retard device (which is more money spent) you have to manually retard timing at the distributor (dizzy) which causes you to lose bottom end power. a lot better than an fmu, but for the price, there are better alternatives. price = $175-$300 for afc, $40-$75 for 450cc injectors.


uberdata (obd1), turbo edit (obd0), crome (obd1) = programs are available to chip the stock honda ecu and use it as a fully tuneable system that can be compared to a stand alone system. these programs are used in conjunction with larger injectors for boosted applications. there are programs for obd0, obd1. to use an obd1 program on an obd2 vehicle, all you have to do is get an obd1 ecu (obd2 ecu's can't be chipped 'yet') and an obd2 to obd1 conversion harness. best bang for the buck by far! price = depending on your knowledge and resources chipping your ecu can cost $15-$100 and $40-$75 for 450cc injectors.

hodata, aem ems, and other stand alone systems = definitely the best way to go, but cost BIG dollars, if you have the money to spend on that stuff for your first turbo set up, you probably won't be reading this anyways.

information on engine management can be found here:

www.pgmfi.org
http://www.homemadeturbo.com/forum/i...threadid=14497

http://www.ecimulti.org/uberdata/forum/
www.turboedit.org
http://www.homemadeturbo.com/forum/i...threadid=14497

93egSLEEPER

I HIGHLY reccomend you build the motor, then install the turbo setup. Get all the parts to make it run and run correctly, never skimp on a build, especially with boost. Once you get it built and the turbo setup on it tow it to a tuner and allow them to take care of the tuning process. Just having an ECU plugged in doesnt mean yur car is "tuned" or running correctly. I definately would not run a FMU

mikej94civex

i wasn't advising him to run an fmu, just simply stating the easiest way to run a boosted car, whether it
will work or not idk he'll have to find out if he doens't wanna do it right

93egSLEEPER

that wasnt meant at your comments, i was typing that while you posted yours.

sloassSi

If you have never done it before, and it sounds like you havent... pay to get your car dyno tuned... each motor runs different, just because a tune worked great on one car, chances are that it won't be as efficient on a different car with same mods... It will work, but not safe. If you are already investing money into a turbo kit, and building the engine, protect your investment and have it tuned by someone that has done it before... and i would tow it to the dyno, wouldn't recommend driving it... but your call. Whatever you do, don't boost on stock injectors and map...

maal15

yea i hear you these all sound good but what really sucks is theres no one close to tune me and i have to go all the way to el paso to get a dyno tune and from what i hear they over charge. what about road tuning the closest guy to me does chrome and i think road tunes is that safe.

93egSLEEPER

a street tune is alright, at least you have a AFR and basemap to work with and be set.

Schister66

Go to the Forced Induction forum and read through the FAQ before doing anything. That may just save you having to replace an engine...

96honda_EK

I have a buddy who has a GSR. Hes running around 8 or 9 lbs of boost on it on a fully stock motor. Has had it for 2 years and never had a problem. Its pushin like 320 hp. That car is a beast. Beats 350z, sti's like nothing. I know that every motor is different but im just puttin in my two cents

Schister66

^^The stock motor aspect of this thread isn't really the issue at hand here...we all know that a stock block can handle quite a bit of abuse IF you're tuned properly. To go along with your buddy's car, i made 315whp/216wtq on my bone stock GSR with no issues

Read my previous thread and follow the suggestion. This thread is not going anywhere...