99siEM1

I have a fully built b16 head with toda header type r intake.im looking in to getting a b20,b18LS or GSR and any one help me out and give me some pointers.A friend of mine wants to sell me a fully built ls block set at a 12.0 comp.if i do that swap can my chipped ecu work still and what other stuff i will have to get that mine b16a2 cant fit i really dont know anything about ls/vtec or b20/vtec swaps thanks for all of your help

Jimster480

did you blow your block? because if not why are you changing your block? And you can get a LS block and put your B16 head on it. But 12.0 CR is a little high for daily driving, dont expect it to get great gas mileage. And yes your chipped ECU will work, but it will need to retuned to run the LSVTEC properly, especially at 12.0+ CR.

99siEM1

no its not blown i have a b16a2 block just looking for more power.i wanna stay all motor thats the only reason y i was thinking about the ls/vtec but if you have any sugg im open cause im really stuck on what to do next my tranny is already done with a lsd.

shogee

b20v then

99siEM1

which one a jdm b20 or a usdm and why a b20 block

shogee

i dont think there is really any difference between the usdm and jdm but the b20 block offers a longer stroke and a larger bore, and along with the vtech head will make some really good power

99siEM1

will it still be a dd or not cause pwjdm has it for 600 will i have to do anything to the block as far as pistions and crank go i would like a cr of 11.5 running on 91oct

iamthefollower

a b20 vtec will have more tq also. There was a guy here who had an all motor b20vtec put down 220whp. You will definately be running good with that built head though.

es01civy

This much power VTECHHH!!!!

99siEM1

ok what about pistons and rods what can i use and should i sleeve it or dont need too.what other parts i should get

newtron63h

there are a few ways to go with this, ill list the pros and cons of each.

my personal choice would be keeping your b16 block, getting a good forged stroker kit and turning it into a 1.8L. this will give you more stroke and stroke=torque, which the b16 is low on. you will still have a shorter stroke than a b18a/b or c..........so your rev potential is higher(with upgraded valvetrain) but a stroker kit i know puts your displacement at 1766cc vs a b18c displacement of 1797........not much difference. so what you end up with is a high rev potential(i think 10k would not be unreasonable if properly built) with almost the same displacement as a b18c, an all forged bottom end which should handle pretty much any amount of power you want.

my 2nd choice would be doing the same thing with a LS block, stroking it with a forged kit. its going to have a lower rpm potential because of a relatively long stroke but it will make up for that with torque..........and (torque x rpm)/5252=HP. i think ive seen a kit that takes a LS from 1834cc to 1983cc.

3rd choice would be a B20, didnt find a forged kit for it but i wouldnt want to increase the stroke on it.......just forged components. as others have stated, pretty long stroke on these.....which means torque ..........and torque and rpm = HP.

last choice would be a B18c block mostly because i see no advantage over a stroked b16, and if you are going for more displacement with a b18.....you might as well use a LS and get the most displacement you can.

hope this helps.

shogee

stroker kits are nice but i think they cost way too much for the amount of power you gain when you could use a crank out of ls or gsr with the rods, because i think most b series come with a forged crank already from the factory, if the ls isnt forged then im pretty sure the gsr is forged. but ive got a buddy who's been running his b20v as a dd for almost 2 years and hasnt had any problems with it except for some oil leaks from tapping the block.

newtron63h

its not so much about adding power as it is about making it a stronger engine. lets say you start with a forged kit. and you build it for N/A but you get to a point where N/A isnt cutting it for your purposes. so you change the pistons......you still have a bottom end that should handle pretty much anything you throw at it so now its good for boost too............as much as you want to. now if all you are going to do is throw some cams in, and other bolt-ons.......then no its not worth it. but if you are serious about a true build then you have to start from the ground up if you want performance AND reliability.

newtron63h

a stroker kit is also about taking an engine that doesnt fit your needs......and MAKING it fit your needs. with N/A there are 2 ways to go........displacement or rpm. those are the ways you make HP. and to add another dimension to that there is only one way you get torque N/A and thats displacement(more specifically stroke). so if you need an engine with torque and HP, you need displacement and RPM. theres only so much you can bore an engine, so the only thing left to change is stroke. stroke pretty much directly affects torque, and torque directly affects HP. so there ya go.

also by increasing displacement you are directly increasing the potential output of the engine. so if you take a 1595cc engine and increase it to 1766cc youve just increased displacement by a little over 10%.......and therefore increased the potential output of the engine by 10%.

es01civy

You spend all that money on internals you better beef up the block with some sleeves..

99siEM1

I know toda has a stroker kit for the b16a2. What im looking for is a strong all motor able to be a DD. I know i can say f it and go with a K swap but i dont wanna sell my motor after all the work and money i put in already.Like i said my friend has a built LS block but he said cr is 12.0 or 12.5 not sure i was really looking at either the b20 or the toda kit.would i have to sleeve my block if i get the stroker kit or it just slaps right in. I saw that infour has the kit anyone knows who eles sells it

shogee

you shouldnt have to sleeve a block if you plan on going n/a, would be good for boost though

93egSLEEPER

GSR block, crank rods w/ p30 pistons and that built head will be 220whp or so and it will still get good milage.

Jimster480

so high CR pistons , a set of cams and valves is going to add 60WHP and still get good gas mileage? I dont see how thats possible, unless ur definition of good mileage is like 12mpg.

93egSLEEPER

I dont see what the arguement is here. A GSR w/ higher compression pistons, nothing over 12:1 with a nice set of cams (blox b's, skunk 2 stage 2's etc.) w/ a properly built head, a nice header, intake and exhaust setup w/ a good tune using BOTH ignition and cam timing adjustments on a decent program (crome pro or neptune) will get close to the ballpark of 210-220whp.

My buddy runs a 11:1 ITR motor daily and gets 26mpg around town and 32ish on the highways.

Not trying to argue but i think your being a bit extreme.

newtron63h

dont NEED to sleeve it for N/A, the idea is just to give you a stronger block. stroker kits should be a fairly straight forward bolt in thing. the one i mentioned is from eagle. they have really good quality stuff, but get an unbalanced kit and have it balanced as their inhouse balancing is not the best. i have no clue about the quality of anything but eagle and scat......both are very good quality companies.

heres a link with alot of options for forged rotating assemblies for an LS block
http://www.summitracing.com/search/m...s/?Ns=Rank|Asc

and heres a link for B16 kits:
http://www.summitracing.com/search/m...s/?Ns=Rank|Asc

there are alot of options for all of these. a lil tip, under piston head volume........a larger positive(+) number means LOWER compression, a larger negative(-) number means higher compression.

Jimster480

A 11:1 ITR doesnt mean much. But a stage 2 all motor cam and 12:1 pistons is a little redic to get better than stock MPG.

93egSLEEPER

with a proper tune and staying out of vtec driving everyday 22-24MPG is easily attainable, which is still a great number for having a built motor.
Honestly 12:1 CR isnt the best idea for DD anyways, maybe more in the 11.5:1 area.

Im not disagreeing that cams and higher compression wont kill the typical "honda" mileage, my chevelle w/ 10.5:1 CR and HUGE cam gets MAYBE 3-5 MPG tops. at the track 1/8 a tank will last about 5 passes.

Jimster480

damn thats pretty bad mileage. But are you takling about 24mpg in the city? because idk about that. My Built D gets like 24mpg in the city, with a mild cam and 7.49CR.

93egSLEEPER

naaaw man thats highway. probably right at 20 city. same as stock wrxs, but walkin em day in day out. haha.

You have a vitara built d? 24mpg isnt too bad. i used to get 20ish w/ my LSV-T and 26ish on the freeway.