JCracer723

ok first off i went through like 30 threads about bleeding the brakes.. ( i got tired of reading the same thing and not finding the right answers )

im bleeding my brakes ( went with front gsr calipers, new MC, and SS lines ) rears are disc... 95 delsol..

i hooked everything up. filled the mc and open one valve at a time. i had someone pump on the brake till i saw fluid coming out then close it. i did this like 4 times.

then i went ahead and had the person pump 3 times hold it then i opened the valve and closed it quick once i saw fluid with no bubbles..

everything seem fine till i started the car and went around the block.. the pedal felt really spoongy..


now.. should i bleed some more? with car on? with cap off or on??


RR,FL,RL,FR

jibs

This works great...
http://www.mityvac.com/
They have a brake bleeding attachment for it.

JCracer723

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jibs &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This works great...
http://www.mityvac.com/
They have a brake bleeding attachment for it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

hmmm they seem expensive.. they dont even show the price lol

pdiggitydogg

Theyre under $30 - great tools (any parts store will have one)

Did you bench bleed the MC?

Your order is correct, and so is the procedure...
Maybe try tapping the caliper with a mallet or something to knock any bubbles loose.

JCracer723

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pdiggitydogg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Theyre under $30 - great tools (any parts store will have one)

Did you bench bleed the MC?

Your order is correct, and so is the procedure...
Maybe try tapping the caliper with a mallet or something to knock any bubbles loose.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

yep i did...

gezzuzz

you have to blead the mc too

JCracer723

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gezzuzz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you have to blead the mc too</TD></TR></TABLE>

?

i just said that i did bench bleed it..

Syndacate

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JCracer723 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">RR,FL,RL,FR</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm not too fond of this order.

That's the order helms uses (I think) but I'm not too fond of it

Usually you wanna do - but helms says other wise...though I and a lot of other people have done the following w/o any problems...
- Rear Right
- Rear Left
- Front Right
- Front Left

I've never seen that one fail... try that order...I don't know why helms lists it the way it does but I think it's queer as hell.

Also, make sure they're on the pedal all the way and holding it there while you tighten the bleeder valve. Another make sure is that it NEVER gets to the bottom of the MC.

I don't know what you use but I don't like those self-bleeders - and I use a ratcheting box end wrench and some fish tank O2 lines.

cxSHOE

i had this happen when i went from 15/16 to 1" with m/c and booster.

i went through 2 bottles of brake fluid till all the air was out. you have air in the lines somewhere.

so start over, and do one line . i flushed 1 line up till 1/2 of the bottle of brake fluid was gone, then went to the next line .... hence until i went through 2 bottles. in the end my right rear had 4 bubbles... damn you bubbles

also order of bleeding does not matter... goodluck

JCracer723

yeah after i was thinking im going to go ahead and get some speed bleeders and like 3 freaking big cans of brake fluid and go at it..

anyone know the pitch size of the bleeders? 8mm x 1.0?

cxSHOE

i would stay away from speed bleeder, more than enough results of them being over tighten and broken off.

this is what i use, and its a clean swap with at the most 4-5 drops of brake fluid or none if your careful. this is a one man job aswell. so no pushing of the brake pedal or buying the friend lunch...


(Model 0251) is the one you want.

http://www.motiveproducts.com/

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

Try bleeding them again & again. It takes a while. Once the person is holding pressure on the pedal, crack open the bleed valve. Watch the fluid come out. Don't close it again until the fluid stops moving on it's own. The fluid stops moving because the brake pedal finally hits the floor. This will move the most fluid (and air) the quickest, so you won't have to do it over and over. As long as your moving fluid quickly, the bubbles won't have time to travel back up the any brake pipes or hoses...

Immediately after the fluid stops and you close the vlave, you can tell your assistant to pull the pedal up, pump, and hold pressure again. Do this 5 or 6 times in a row quickly and then check the fluid level. You want to keep bleeding long after clear clean fluid is coming out since you do have to push air bubbles all the way from the MC, and not just the calipers & brake lines...

PS: Syndicate is incorrect about the bleed sequence. The car has two entirely separate fluid channels (RF, LR & LF, RR). It is not possible for air bubbles to travel from one system to the other, so it makes no sense to bleed both rear calipers first. The idea is to bleed one channel, then the other...

JCracer723

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Try bleeding them again & again. It takes a while. Once the person is holding pressure on the pedal, crack open the bleed valve. Watch the fluid come can tell your assistant to pull the pedal up, pump, and hold pressure again. Do this 5 or 6 times in a row quickly and then check the fluid level. You want to keep bleeding long after clear clean fluid is coming out since you do have to push air bubbles all the way from the MC, and not just the calipers & brake lines.....</TD></TR></TABLE>

ok after doing this 7 times on each caliper no luck yet..
while doing the stated above the pedal does get harder each time..
but when i was done i turned on the car and the pedal still the same..

i was messing with the pedal this time around when the car was on and slowly goes to the floor.. i checked for leaks and there arent any leaks..

what the hell is up? you guys think that the MC is bad?

koldkustoms

check your valve in the booster. sometimes when that goes bad your pedal with go to the floor making it hard to stop.

JCracer723

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by koldkustoms &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">check your valve in the booster. sometimes when that goes bad your pedal with go to the floor making it hard to stop.</TD></TR></TABLE>

valve in the booster? where exactly is it?

Tyson

heres a bit of a longshot....

take a look at your old MC (still got it?). is there a black rubber grommet still attached to the piston housing? (what inserts the booster)

if there ISNT one left on the your OLD MC, then it must be stuck INSIDE your booster. and your NEW MC already comes with ANOTHER grommet, so you have two rubber grommets in there now. which is where the spongy feel can come from.

if youre still not sure, take the MC off and check inside if the old one is still there.

also, did you even bother to bench bleed the MC? you really should have, or else theres air starting from your MC and it could take a long time to bleed out the caliper.

Tyson

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jibs &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This works great...
http://www.mityvac.com/
They have a brake bleeding attachment for it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

mityvac is crap. sucks more air in. and is a pain to use on your hands. literally.

JCracer723

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">heres a bit of a longshot....

take a look at your old MC (still got it?). is there a black rubber grommet still attached to the piston housing? (what inserts the booster)

if there ISNT one left on the your OLD MC, then it must be stuck INSIDE your booster. and your NEW MC already comes with ANOTHER grommet, so you have two rubber grommets in there now. which is where the spongy feel can come from.

if youre still not sure, take the MC off and check inside if the old one is still there.

also, did you even bother to bench bleed the MC? you really should have, or else theres air starting from your MC and it could take a long time to bleed out the caliper.</TD></TR></TABLE>

took the old grommet out and put the new in...

i know i said that the pedal was spoongy but now after messin with it more and applying more pressure for longer time it goes all the way to the floor..

i try the pump it and loosing the fittings at the master cylinder.. ( after searching a lil more ) did that like 2 times.. should i do it more?

Tyson

if its going to the floor, you got a leak.

probably all the wrenching youre doing at the fittings.

JCracer723

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if its going to the floor, you got a leak.

probably all the wrenching youre doing at the fittings.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

ive check for leaks and nothing... the pedal gets hard when the car is off.. once i turn it on and pump the pedal thats when it goes down...

if i had a leak or the MC was bad would it even get hard when pumping the pedal when the car is off?

Tyson

Civichx1998

I had this problem when one of my calipers went bad.... It would build pressure when the car is off but as soon as you turned the car on it went to the floor... One of my front calipers went bad and the piston would wiggle out just had to build enough pressure to do so then it would build pressure but with the car on it never built pressure... Changed calipers and its fixed

Tyson

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Civichx1998 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had this problem when one of my calipers went bad.... It would build pressure when the car is off but as soon as you turned the car on it went to the floor... One of my front calipers went bad and the piston would wiggle out just had to build enough pressure to do so then it would build pressure but with the car on it never built pressure... Changed calipers and its fixed</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah, really old, cruddy pistons will do that. need to replace or rebuild with a clean piston.

cxSHOE

if everything was done correctly, and after doing each side 7 times im pretty sure the air is out of the lines. so if the pedal still goes down. i think you have a bad m/c and you have an internal leak.

this means, that the inner seals of the shaft inside the m/c are not sealing correctly and just pushing the fluid back up into the bowl.

while the seal that is closes to the booster will keep it from leaking the seal inside the m/c could be bad causing the weak pedal pressure.


thats the only thing i can think of that could cause the pedal to still act like theres a leak.

its not the booster because even if the booster is bad, you will know because the pedal will be rock hard if the booster is bad. hence why we have boosters to make pushing down easier. (car off push pedal will be rock hard, car on push down pedal still rock hard=bad booster, soft= good booster)

cxSHOE

oh my bad you have a new m/c...hummmm