VtecMatt

I am planning out the best possible engine swap for my 95 Civic EX Coupe (EJ1). I plan to do the motor swap this summer, and next summer to build the engine's internals (forged pistons, con. rods, valve springs, cam, etc, etc), and a bolt-on turbo kit w/ intercooler. I know that the GSR swap is really good, but how well do other swaps work? I have heard of reliability issues with LSVTEC and CRVTEC. Don't get me wrong, I don't plan on this engine lasting 1,000,000 miles, but I don't want to be fixing it everyday. I don't know if I want to do an H-series swap, because I don't want to have to do all the messy labor that is involved, when compared with the work to do a B-series swap. Also, I am partial to the abundance of parts for the B-series compared to the H-series. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

B18C5-EH2

Here's a topic right below this one about the same subject:

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=147721

Check it out and see what you think. Try doing some searches on archived topics as well - it *might* turn up some good info, but lately the search has sucked for me even when I know exactly what I'm looking for

Good luck!

BTW: I've had the following swaps in the same car: B16A2, B18C1, and B18C5. I have a good idea on the true differences between them

IM me if you want to, or I'll hit this up later when I get more time.

B18C5-EH2

Okay, so since i've had the "big 3" which are thew normal VTEC swaps for the 1992-1995 Civic, I'll give you my rundown.

I had a 1992 Civic Si hatch, and my fiancee' has one as well. Cars are identical in terms of mods and features - same intake, exhaust, no A/C, same wheels/tires, IDENTICAL. AEM CAI, Tanabe Racing medallion, DC header on her car, same on mine minus the Dc header.

Only difference is which motor is in each car.

She has a 1999 B16A2 in hers - from a 1999 Civic Si coupe.

First I had a 1995 B18C1 from a 1995 Integra GS-R. That motor had i/h/e, but not a cold air AEM - just short ram.

Running the cars side by side on the street and dropping, the B18C1 would pull on the B16A2 every time. From a dead stop the B18C1 would pull a good car length maybe even 1.5 cars on the B16A2 by the time we were topping 3rd gear.

While I'll say the B16A2 pulls great, it did not pull as good as the B18C1. The B18C1 had much more midrange power, and the low-end killed the B16A2 as well. Daily driving in the B18C1 was easier because you didn't HAVE to rev it to 8000rpm just to hit a strong powerband to pass a car - B16A2 you did.

Dyno results?

The B16A2 baselined at 143whp, 102ft/lbs. torque.

The B18C1 pulled 150whp (kind of low for B18C1 ) and 123ft/lbs. of torque.

If you don't think the 21 more ft/lbs. of torque made a big difference, then I'm here to say that it does.

At the track my B18C1 ran a 14.6 on ****-*** 16'' Falken Ziex tires on heavy-*** 16'' wheels. I'm thinking 14.5 or 14.4 would have been it's best had I had better tires and lighter wheels.

Never ran her car yet, but it fells like a good 14.8-14.9 car.

Keep in mind that these are full interior Si hatches, both weighing in at 2289lbs. or so with swaps.

So, I sold the B18C1 GS-R swap and got a 1998 B18C5 swap from a 1998 Integra Type R, USDM.

The difference between the B18C5 and the B18C1 and B16A2 is night and day.

While the B18C1 still had the best mid and lowend power, the B18C5 surges forward at 6300 or so and pulls HARD. How hard?

175whp and 122ft/lbs. of torque. this was just AEM CAI for 99 Si, Tanabe Racing Medallion Exhaust and re-chipped "kenji-spec" P28 ECU.

It was good for a 13.9@100.97mph in full interior 2289.lbs Si hatchback. This was my first time at the strip with that set-up too, so I could have done better I'm sure.

So there you have it - same cars, different motors. Different results too

-Darren-

thanks.

Thrashin

b18c

WykidEH

I say B18C

riot

I personaly, when I find a proper EG, will be swapping a B18B in. Its quick, easy, and very ******* cheap. It may not be much right off the bat, but it will be turbo-charged shortly. Its going to be a nice budget setup.

-ryan

Jayson S.

I love my B18C5 with LSD and 4.785 FD there is no bigger high than an N/A motor screamin and pulling HARD!!

I respect Forced Induction setups but love the sound of all motor.

I have several friends that own Forced Induction Cars and have ridden with them or others with various Supercharged and Turboed setups. Here is my breakdown from their experiences:

H22a1 w/ Drag3 Turbo: absolute bitch to install but probably the fastest. Buddy blew his rings on only 4 lbs of boost. Motor has to be built in my opinion to last.

B18C1 w/ Drag 3 Turbo: not a painful install and lots of available parts. If you boost over 4-6lbs I recommend building the motor otherwise you may end up doing it without planning for it. Both of my buddies have had to replace internals.

B18C1 w/ Jackson SC: Bitch to install! Tunning is near impossible. The only people I have met with a properly running Jackson Kit with no problems to report were sponsored by Jackson. Friend blew his rings at 7 lbs.

B16 w/ Vortec Kit: Was not that impressive to me for the cash. Seemed to work well but did not feel like it was faster than my car.

B16 w/ Jackson SC: Dont know because my buddy gave up on it because it was too annoying.

Overall if you go Turbo I think go GSR. My buddy with Drag3 kit and built motor is slamming down dynos of 360+ whp with stock ECU.

This is not to hurt any feelings but it is my experiences.

Jayson S.

GokuSSJ4

if you are thinking of going turbo ! then go gsr b18c1
im running a j spec R motor and its great but mainly for all motor .and besides it will be cheaper so you can up grade to the turbo . i would stay away from the h motor since the car is great for 1/4 but doesnt handle that good .

B18C5-EH2

I'm upping this so everyone can see the 5 topics about the same exact thing, and that I can simply copy/paste my reply to try and help the people asking