themunchkinman

This is a side note. I've heard the good, bad, and ugly concerning Mobil 1. However, my brother just switched to Mobil 1 in his 22R (I know, it's a toyota, bear with me) and some very prominent clatter went completely away. My follow up question is when is it too late to switch to synthetic? (Risk of varnish/deposits/old seals becoming cleaned out and causing leaks?)

Blk00EJ8

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hanmin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The only oil that would be in the cylinders on a brand new engine is the oil used when honing them.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Do you even know what honing is?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hanmin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">regardless, its not supposed to get into the cylinder, a motor isnt supposed to burn oil. Oil is there just to lubricate. I don't know about where all the oil squirters are, but even if theres one right under a cylinder spraying under the piston, its not gunna get in. If anything only a tiny amount. Oil is just there to reduce friction. That's it. Some just has it's own side effects. That's my 2 cents.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Please don't take this the wrong way, but I wouldn't give you half a cent for your two cents. One of the functions of the crosshatching performed when honing is to provide a rough surface for the piston rings to seat properly, creating an optimal seal. If you do seat your rings properly and wear out the crosshatching prematurely, you risk the rings not being optimally seated and hence later being prone to reduced compression holding. This inevitably leads to exhaust gas blow-by and oil leaking into the combustion chamber.

Hanmin

I've honed cylinders before, you use a drill type device, with bike brake pad looking things, and you put oil on the bike brake pad looking things, you then put it into the cylinder and hit the trigger, while it spins you move the drill type device up and down so while its spinning it can make the cross hatch thingy. and I know what the cross hatches are for. what does oil have to do with getting the piston rings to seat properly. Honing, Oil. 2 different things...

Blk00EJ8

Yes, they are 2 different things. That doesn't mean they're unrelated.

D50boy

Amsoil 5W-30 in my 99- canged every 4000 miles
Castrol bull$hat in my 89 Changed every 4500 miles

I know the Amsoil can go longer, but I'm super **** about it.

ejprimo

1994 honda civic ex
mostly HPDE and long drives to Laguna seca or willow springs
270,000 miles on chassis and 100,000 miles on unknown mileage b16a motor
oil changed no more than twice a year, usually after every 4 track or 5k miles
castrol syntec 0w-30
been using syntec for 5 years

1997 honda prelude base
stock daily driver, 50/50 city/highway driving.
177,000 miles
OCI every 8-10k miles but i need to add a quart every 1500 miles
76 synthetic blend 10w-30
at $2/qt. for synthetic blend i couldnt be more satisfied

1995 honda civic dx hatch
stock daily driver
124,000 miles
OCI every 5k-7k
76 synthetic blend 5w-30

76 motor oil is exactly the same oil as trop artic synthetic blend available at walmart.

mormonboy

royal purple.

i swear, my car got like 10 extra miles per gallon. engine runs smoother, quieter and less hotter.

Frickr

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hanmin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've honed cylinders before, you use a drill type device, with bike brake pad looking things, and you put oil on the bike brake pad looking things, you then put it into the cylinder and hit the trigger, while it spins you move the drill type device up and down so while its spinning it can make the cross hatch thingy. and I know what the cross hatches are for. what does oil have to do with getting the piston rings to seat properly. Honing, Oil. 2 different things...</TD></TR></TABLE>

you didnt clean your motor after you honed it?? the oil used to hone your motor, is so that the metel particals that you are grinding off get washed away from the stone. honing oil is more of a solvent then anything. the crosshatch you leave are small scratches, not all of the oil is scrapped away when the piston moves by. the oil lubricates the rings so that your motor doesnt seize up, and there isnt excess heat and friction. also, whenever i assemble a motor, i always use flexiplate on all of the rings to help with the breakin. that way the cylinder walls arent completely dry on startup since it will take a few seconds for the oil to circulate the motor, and get enough on the oil ring on the cylinders to properly lubricate it from then on. also all seating the rings is is just lining them up propperly on the piston on install. simple as that.

Amsoil Full Synth. 5-30
2000 EM1 with JDM B16A
85k on chassis, motor unknown
5000 on oil, still clean and clear.

94CoupeEJ1

2006 Impreza Outback 2.5L
22,000 miles Wife's Daily Driver
Mobil 1 Standard syn 5W30
Mobil 1 filter
Changed to Mobil 1 at 2nd oil change at 7,000 miles
Change it at factory interval every 7500 miles

1999 Civic EX EJ8 D16Y8
102,000 miles
My Daily Driver
Mobil 1 Standard syn 5W30
Mobil 1 filter
Changed to Mobil 1 at 90,000 miles at 1st oil change after purchase
Change it at 10,000 mile intervals

I put 130,000 miles over 9 years on a 96 Chrysler 3.3L mini van using Mobil 1 and changing the oil every 20,000 miles with filter changes every 5,000 miles. Sold it to a friend.

themunchkinman

Thank you to everyone who is contributing. I think this thread should be useful for those looking for a little help deciding by having real world situations to look at and compare to their own and make a slightly more informed decision than just random opinions (valid or not). Let everyone know to come and submit if they are willing and make this thread even better, and maybe a credible reference (with a little scrubbing).

Thanks again to everyone who is helping out, it is very much appreciated.

So here's one for you, take which ever you prefer, .