CIVIC96DXcp

i'm planning to go on with my D series. i dont really like engine swap. so i'm planning to change cams and stuff like that.

please give me the list on what i need to do.

i'm planning to use crower stage 2 cam kit, obx headers and custom 2.5 inch exhaust with minime swap for the vtec. my bottom end is about 145k miles. do you guys think is it worth to build just the top end? will my bottom end survive for a long time? because reliability is a big issue to me.

thanks

e jay one

turbo

GapxGuy

PM6 pistons, B-series TB, Y8 intake manifold.

If you have a DX, get an EX vtec head and tranny.

timisyourfriend

yea, wow, if you dont have D16Y8, don't even do anything to it... lol

civiccoupe94

yea its not worth it.. friend of mines spent about 1,000 for a mini me swap (top end) and some cams, headers, etc. turns out it still cant beat a stock B16a.

timisyourfriend

with a Z6 or Y8, you would smoke B16's all day! haha if you're a good driver.. (= (coming from lots of personal experiences)

huntarrr

pointless to build a n/a d-series motor unless you have TONS of money and STILL want to be slow

EK k kay

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civiccoupe94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea its not worth it.. friend of mines spent about 1,000 for a mini me swap (top end) and some cams, headers, etc. turns out it still cant beat a stock B16a. </TD></TR></TABLE>

lol, he can't drive then. I got a mini me swap with a z6 tranny, cold air, stock exhaust manifold and stock exhaust and I can run side by side with an h22 prelude vtec.

GapxGuy

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vsm98civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">pointless to build a n/a d-series motor unless you have TONS of money and STILL want to be slow</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not true. You can put less than a grand into a Z6 or Y8 and smoke B16's all day.

The Internet Tough Guy

ex tranny with zc 3rd & 4th gears, 4.9 final drive and lsd. then bore it out throw some 12:1 comp pistons in there with a stage 3 cam get it tuned and have fun.

T-RO

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GapxGuy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not true. You can put less than a grand into a Z6 or Y8 and smoke B16's all day. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Spend that grand on a turbo setup and smoke b18's all day...

SOHCmaster

either turbo it or do a swap. Seriously all motor SOHC suck !! But turbo ones are fun as hell. For real all that money for all motor/nowhare car could of went twords a custom kit or better all motor swap.

huntarrr

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GapxGuy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not true. You can put less than a grand into a Z6 or Y8 and smoke B16's all day. </TD></TR></TABLE>
exactly. stock b16's are slow. after $1000 and you're only as fast as a b16 and no where else to upgrade? waste of money.

and just out of curiosity, what setup would you plan on running for under $1000?

methos713

when adding a turbo to a d16z6, don't the motor need to get work done on it too so it won't get messed up on the long run?

Farmer Brown

NA Ds are too expensive to make it worthwhile.
Go turbo D!!

MrTodd

C'mon you guys, let's stick to the initial question... He's not asking about turbos or B-series, he's asking how to build an N/A D-series motor.

Before I sold my CRX, I did plenty of research in building up d-series motors.. IMO, a full Z6 motor is the best to go with, even so since all d-series are so similar, all of these upgrades should work with anything you've got in mind.

First of all, if you want some *good* power, you WILL need to build the bottom end - but it doesn't have to be expensive!!! Add P29 pistons (aka DOHC ZC pistons or '88-'89 D16A1) and you'll have a MUCH higher compression ratio, be sure you know how high it will be by using a compression calculator...

Here's a good one...
http://www.knology.net/~jediklc/D.htm

You can easily lower/raise your compression ratio with a different headgasket - cometic is a trusted brand that makes several different thicknesses.

Get some .5mm overbored pistons (P29) and bring the block to a machine shop, have them overbore the sleeves and install the pistons. Chances are you won't have to replace the bearings, but if you have the extra cash for the peace of mind, go for it - I've heard good things about ACL for the price.

As for the head, Crower is a proven brand for D-series. You can't go wrong with the stage 2, but you will need to upgrade your valvetrain to handle the extra duration & lift. I would do a LOT of research on porting, and then do your own port and polish job. A valve job would do you a lot of good as well, but depending on your head's condition it may not be worth the money to you.

Everything else is pretty simple, don't get a Y8 intake manifold - they're just a fad. Either get a Z6 I/M and port it out, or just go aftermarket. Get a B-series T/B for sure, any bigger than 60mm isn't going to do much. As for your header, don't waste your money on a some basic DC-sports trash, get a custom built header such as AN-R or Bisimoto - whatever suits your budget. The intake doesn't really matter...

Tranny = Ex/Si at the very least. A shorter final drive will definitely sweeten the deal.

As for the exhaust, a 2.5" might be slightly overkill, as you'll be losing some low-end power if you go that big. A full mandrel-bent 2.25" should work great.

Now probably the most difficult part of building a D-series would be TUNING. If you want something simple, with decent on-the-fly flexibility, a V-AFC usually does a fairly good job. However, if you have the know-how and patience for more power, then I'd recommend doing some custom tuning with a ROM editor setup. This is the biggest problem with D-series performance, working on tuning the ECU is tedius, time consuming and *can* be expensive. This is where it pays to do your homework.

Is it worth the price? I don't know, that would be up to you as it depends if you know what you're doing, and also your perspective. Either way, good luck!

Soccerking3000

dont even get an intake or intake manifold, go with an ITB setup, its defiantly the best for NA, and for tuning a SOHC isnt expensive at all... uberdata is free and all u need is a chip burner, and tuning a SOHC is no different than tuning any other motor... but i agree with most everything else you said:

-an-r/bisimoto header
-ITB Setup
-Zex/Crower Cam
-Bore the motor if you have cash (aftermarket sleeves) to get 1.8L
-Nice valve springs/retainers so you can rev high and use the full power of the cam and ITB setup
-Lightweight crank/rods
-Lightweight flywheel and nice clutch

Building an NA sohc is very expensive, as others have stated turboing it would net more gains and still have reliability, just buy a greddy kit and run 5.5 psi, you wont have a loss in reliability that way good luck

CIVIC96DXcp

wow, never really think that NA d series sucks that much. thanks a lot for all the information though. i'm seriously considering a turbo sohc. but i dont want to get pulled over by the cops and get my car towed away.

should i save some money up and go with h22? is it reliable?

Civic4less

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CIVIC96DXcp &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wow, never really think that NA d series sucks that much. thanks a lot for all the information though. i'm seriously considering a turbo sohc. but i dont want to get pulled over by the cops and get my car towed away.

should i save some money up and go with h22? is it reliable? </TD></TR></TABLE>

GReddy and Edelbrock make street legal turbo kits...

BS 22

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by T-RO &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Spend that grand on a turbo setup and smoke b18's all day... </TD></TR></TABLE>

seriously...turbo is much more fun anyways!

huntarrr

Greddy kits are legal so you dont have to worry about the cops

menkio

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vsm98civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Greddy kits are legal so you dont have to worry about the cops </TD></TR></TABLE>

again, stick to topic.

shrug, i did a y7 block for fun, milled head, homemade port and polish, delta regrind, itb's, new pump/bearings/uberdata, custom tranny, lsd, and i run a 13.5. y7 head and bottom end, 13:1 ratio, runs fine on 93, idle is a bit lumpy, still a great setup for under 800 bucks(minus the obx lsd)

deadlock32

Why would the cops pull you over for your turbo? I mean they wouldn't really know who made it, what sets apart the street legal for the illegal ones, emissions?

huntarrr

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by menkio &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
again, stick to topic.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Try reading a bit more.... The dude said now he wants a turbo kit but doesn't want to get hassled by cops.

Archidictus

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GapxGuy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not true. You can put less than a grand into a Z6 or Y8 and smoke B16's all day. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Since when were B16's fast? Yeah, I can put $1000 into an all-motor d16z6 and maybe run a low 15, but that's not fast, that's a waste of $1000.