kent, clark

Good kit. Endlinks are forced to sit perpendicular to the ground in order to maximize their range of motion. Solid reinforcement plates on front and back. I needed to file a bit on the top inside corners of the front support plates in order to fit flush on the control arms. I ended up having to send these back to Wil to have them cut thinner as the sway bar brackets would not fit behind my muffler (GReddy SP). I got them back pretty fast and everything has been fine.

Driving impressions: Wow! The driving dynamics have completely changed on my car. Surprisingly neutral. Off-throttle oversteer is just a right ankle lift away. The rear feels very stable and solid. Turn-in is easy and the car tracks well in turns. All in all, a great mod for the money. Remember, it's the same bar used in the Comptech combo (ITR 22mm sway).

Total cost (all necessary parts and shipping): ~$230

The kit:


Shaved front support plates:


Rear view:


Side view:



Car: 98 DX hatchback

Other suspension mods:
Tokico Illumina Suspension Kit (5-way adj shocks/Prokit-like springs ~250F/150R)
16x7.5 43mm Kosei K1 Racing
205/45ZR16 Kumho ECSTA Supra 712
Generic front upper strut bar
Spoon rear upper strut bar
Rear Camber Kit

CheezeFrog

Nice.. what type of bar are you using for the front?

tonyxcom

I just installed my beaks/itr kit last night onto my 96cx. I didn't have any issues with fitment or clearance though. Bolted right up. And I still have the stock CX muffler too

I was suprised at what the bar did for me too. I have the CTR/SI front 26mm setup and without the rear sway, my car felt "twichy" on the freeway above 80mph. Now with the rear sway, the car is more stable at speed.

I also noticed that with only the front, my turn in was rather abrubt and undulations in the road would give me a little bump steer. Now with the rear sway that seems to have gone away.

Overall though, my car does feel more stable and planted, suprisingly the rear end isn't as loose as I thought it would be, even off throttle.

Only time will tell, I have only put 20 miles on the car since installing the bar last night.

CheezeFrog

What all parts were required for the Si front bar? Would I just need the swaybar, mounting bushings and endlinks?

Jackson

bar, end links, lca's, forks, and necessary bolts and chit.

jrlude25

Just wondering I have a 96 del sol s. What kind of front sway bars will I be able to install. For sure going with beaks and itr for the rear

tonyxcom

I think on the del sols you can put any 94-00 integra front sways including ITR.

Someone please clarify

tonyxcom

"bar, end links, lca's, forks, and necessary bolts and chit."

Yeah, LCA's, end links, swaybar, damper forks, and swaybar bushings and brackets. The only bolts that are differnet are the lower fork bolts. Everything else is the same, including all the bushings and bolts that mount the LCAs to the subframe.

kent, clark

None

kent, clark

That's interesting that you went with a front bar first. I figured that if my car oversteered too much with just the rear bar, I would put in a front one. I'm pretty satisfied with how the car handles now...need to improve the nut behind the wheel.

vntperformance

Where can i get these from? I have a 95 CIvic CX Hatch, with this setup, what CA do I use? What sway bar? Does the cx come with a front sway bar, if not what do i use?

vnt

KamikazeSol

Just wanted to let you know I am working on a adapter bracket to make it posssible to mount a factory front sway bar on cars that do not have the holes in the lower control arms. This should make it much less expensive to modify the front bar. I am putting a 24mm GSR bar on mine and using my S lower controll arms. Send me an e-mail and when I get it set I will be selling the brackets.

tonyxcom

Well, I had always planned on running sways on both ends. I got the front first because I came across a deal I couldn't pass up on the CTR setup, and was still undecided on the rear (until Wil talked me out of the Mugen setup). I fugured if I didn't like the front only I could always disconect one of the endlinks. And I had tons of steering already, and wanted to control body roll more.

As a side note, you can tune the rear sway if you have the prothane or similar d-brakets. Since you can slide the brakets up and down, you can change the angle slightly of the ends of the sway bar. Moving the brackets up should should "stiffen" the sway bar and moving them down should "soften" the swaybar.

Please note that this wont yield results andwhere near moving the endlinks pivot on the end of the sway like a comptech setup, or with adjustable lenght endlinks.

Cheap Bastard

I like the kit, but the stock ITR bushings have alot of play. Compared to Mugens bushings. The ITR's have big and fatty rubber bushing.


CB

tonyxcom

Will (Beaks) sent Prothane bushings with my kit

seek167

did the beaks kit cost 230.00 or is that the type r sway bar too.


[Modified by seek167, 11:16 PM 3/15/2002]

kent, clark

The Beaks kit cost me $65 shipped. The bushings, brackets, the bar itself, and the Si endlink$ make up the rest of that sum. Sounds like a lot but well worth the investment, IMO for a great-sized bar that won't tear out.

seek167

glad to here. have a good time with it.

kent, clark

you lucky bastard

tonyxcom

Well, Will offered to source all the needed parts for me to save me the hassle of getting things shipped from about 4 differnet places. He asked if I wanted prothane instead of the itr ones and I said of course. So my total shipped was 250 even. Which is a bargain to me considering the hassle he saved me alone.

I can't say it enough...some of the best customer service I ever got and it was only for a $65 product.

kent, clark

I figured that's what you meant. I concur: Wil's customer service and product =

Cuong-nutz

i cant see the picture

Cuong-nutz

i cant see the pictures

kent, clark

Here's the Pics

kent, clark

Here's the Pics