silverbullet9626

it only happens in the morn or at night when it is really, cold like in the 20's and below. when i turn the key to on position the oil light, cel, brake and seatbelt light come on but not the battery. when i start the car it throws a cel almost immediatly and when i drive it the rpm's drop quick between gear changes also my speedo dosen't work when this happens. once it has warmed up i can cut it off turn the key to on and the batt. light comes on along with all the other lights and runs fine. i have tried the service connector on the pass. side the only code it throws is the knock sensor which i have had since i bought my swap. by the way my car is and 96 ej6 with a jdm 99 si b16a obd2 ecu. i am currently using the jdm under hood fuse box too if that matters.

silverbullet9626

17 views and no reply. do i got ya stumped??

silverbullet9626

yea i definitely got some people stumped on this one

slo_hatch

check your grounds?? idk what it could be but maybe your grounds are messed up. sounds different kinda but i had a similar problem with my speedo and my lights would dim and the cluster lights wouldnt work...my alternator was bad so it wouldnt keep the battery charged. maybe a couple of things to check on. idk what else to tell you besides start checkin **** and replacing it.

jdm_zew

im think it might have an low charging out out, i have that happen in my 95 honda accord, check for alternator regulator out put charging..

silverbullet9626

i also forgot to mention that i am using the jdm harness with the jdm ecu

bossm

k what motor is in the car

silverbullet9626

jdm b16a car is 96 dx coupe

bossm

wow im stumped when you did the swap did you connect all the sensors right and did you wire the ecu right??????

silverbullet9626

yup never took the harness off the motor except to extend wires because of the jdm harness being backwards and i only had to extend three of them. working on getting a 96-98 ex harness so i can pass emissions

gundamtyper

i did a US 97 b18c1 obd2a swap into a 99 civic dx. the 97 p72 ecu was really sensitive to emission sensors (giving me a couple of CEL's). i was also having the same problem with the lights dimming at a certain rpm level. i replaced the 97 ECU with a 99 gsr p72. the 99 p72 makes the engine run way better and i got no more CEL's and my lights did not dim any more. dont know if this will solve your problem though.

i would also agree with previous posts on checking your wiring for correct grounds and replacing any old electrical parts of the motor (sparkplugs/wires, dist. cap/rotor, starter, alternator). unless the engine was totally trashed when you got it, i think the ditributor should be ok, though.

silverbullet9626

i replaced everything that you suggested except starter and alternator before the swap

silverbullet9626

bump to tha top

silverbullet9626

up up up

gundamtyper

did u check the alternator to see if it is ok and did u check grounds on your wiring?

Uberfit

you say its only happening when its really cold right? maybe the battery needs some more fluid/acid because it is getting to cold to produce proper current. or maybe you have some kindof vacuum leak that's causing the rpm drop, but once the engine is warm the metal or gasket expands enough to seal it again... I'm taking a shot in the dark and I am no mechanic, but it might get you thinking along other lines that might help... because it seems like its a problem with it being cold, not in the wiring and such.

Former User

Try replacing fuse 15 (7.5A) under the dash with a new one. Is it loose? Also inspect the terminals for damage or corrosion.

silverbullet9626

your absolutly right it is def. somthing to do with the cold, and i just replaced my I.M. gasket like two weeks ago along with the iacv. i know i dont have any vac leaks because i checked vac. hose before i went into buying a new gasket and 160.00 iacv. i havent checked the battery or alt. though

silverbullet9626

what would that fuse be for

Former User

The dash battery/charge light and the alternator.

silverbullet9626

well my problem went away for a while and now its back. i have narrowed it down to thinking that the wires under the dash are too cold to carry the proper current to the cluster. i got off work last night and the prob occurred again as i drove the car and it began to warm up the prob didnt go away after i cut it off and back on. then i drove the car with the recirculating air on so warm air flows through the dash from the bay and not a minute later my speedo started workin. i stopped and restarted it and shazzam workin fine. the cel it is throwing is the ELD. also the idle surges at a stop. i have no vac leaks and have a new iacv

silverbullet9626

bump

Former User

First, do yourself a favor and create more descriptive thread titles -- edited.

Second, click on the fuse 15 TSB in my signature.