egizzle8

Alright so I finally got my d15b swapped in and I don't have any check engine lights but two problems came up.
1. Battery light is now on. The battery is still being charged from what I'm assuming since I've been driving it for 2 days now and not a sign that it's being drained or problems starting.
2. Engine idles at 2k. I installed a new JG bored out throttle body and I adjusted the TPS and if I adjust to one side it hiccups when it idles. So I turned it to the otherside and it idles fine and I played with it alittle to see if it did anything. Yeah I know you have to adj to some many V's but I don't have a DSM so... I adj the screw on the throttle body and that brought it down since it was at first idling at 3k. The butterfly is completely closed since the cable is as loose as it can go and I can visually see that it's closed. The coolant is bleed and I'm pretty sure I don't have any vacuum leaks. ALso I bypassed the TB and IACV to keep the heat down in the TB even after it full warms up it still at 2k. Thats the only other thing I could think of thats causing the problem. Maybe I'll have it go back through the IACV and see if that does anything but I don't think it will just since the idle doesn't change after the car being at full operating temp.
Otherwise the car drives fine on the road. Autocrossing starting on the 16th and I'm just trying to get the car in top shape before hand.

ssbpturbohatch

i had an idle issue on my d16, i had the coolant passages thru the tb bypassed, i ran the coolant line back into it just for kicks and it made the car idle perfect. When you adjust the screw on the tb are you pulling the plug off the iac valve while you adjust? Check the haynes book, it'll tell you about that. hope this helps
not sure about the battery light though.

TallAssFilipino

As far as the battery indicator goes, it can either be the battery or the alternator. While the engine is running, disconnect the battery. See if it runs fine. Then turn your headlights on while engine is still running (and battery is disconnected) and rev' the engine a little. See if the headlights dim or brighten/stays the same while rev'ing.

mct121

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MDJ IKNJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As far as the battery indicator goes, it can either be the battery or the alternator. While the engine is running, disconnect the battery. See if it runs fine. Then turn your headlights on while engine is still running (and battery is disconnected) and rev' the engine a little. See if the headlights dim or brighten/stays the same while rev'ing.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you disconnect the batt and the engine doesn't die the the alternator clearley is providing juice, but what does it mean if the headlights fluctuate with the the engine speed? Sorry if it is a stupid question.

mct121

Ine more try to get my relevant (IMHO) question answered.

TallAssFilipino

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mct121 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

If you disconnect the batt and the engine doesn't die the the alternator clearley is providing juice, but what does it mean if the headlights fluctuate with the the engine speed? Sorry if it is a stupid question.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

One one of my engines, if I were to d/c the batt while the engine was running, the car would stay on, but the alternator would dimm out while throttling, sometimes even causing the engine to die out. I couldn't even have my radio, headlights/foglights and control the moonroof at the same time or the engine would die. I finally replaced it with some rebuilt one and now it actually brightens, just slightly, in that same scenario.

Do you know if your batt' and alt' are both very good and long-running condition?