dh

iTrader: (3)

Exactly

johncgardner

well I am going to see what works for me

(({Shaun}))

Great write up!

Just the right info I needed.

sleepyaccord96

^ nice for you to revive a old *** thread...:/

k3ntegra

Thanks a lot, best Civic/Integra ball joint guide I've come across, bar none.

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

k3ntegra

I was able to swap out a ball joint on G3 Integra GS. To get old one out, I had to place C adapter aside, as the C clamp was too short, then turn the the thread directly on the ball join stud. Then after pushing it up 10-20 mm towards the upper ball joint side of the knuckle, I was able to use the C adapter.

For installation, I had to set aside the B adapter for the same reason. After pushing the new one in 10 to 20 mm, I then used the B adapter.

And using the D adapter by itself is certainly not long enough, and could destroy the boot. So yeah, F adapter is needed as well.

Also to make the installation easier, I used two wrenches connected together, to get 1.75 ft or so of leverage. I also rub silicone (and only silicone) lubricant in the knuckle hole. Thanks again for the guide.
Edit:
I went ahead and did the other side, which likely had never been changed in 200,000 miles of the car's existence.

I strongly recommend using both the method for removal and insertion described here: https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-.../#post45703392. After moving the ball joints by 5 to 10 millimeters, switch back to the method depicted by the OP of this thread (especially in using the D and F adapter together), to avoid possibly damaging the ball joints. Also a breaker bar proved more useful, than attaching two wrenches together for extra leverage.

tony_2018

Damn...sounded kinda confusing. Just get the tool kit in this op thread and be done with. I replaced 2 balljoints and wheel bearings in no time. I did however **** up on the 1st balljoint removal but was able to get it right on the second balljoint removal.

chrysler kid

I work at autozone, I literally did one last Friday in the store for a guy who brought in his spindle with the axle still on it.

You need the ball joint press and the honda ball joint adapter kit.

I did it for him in less than 15 minutes

tony_2018

Word....

Mecca8383

...Wouldn't it be just easier to buy a $15 blowtorch from Walmart and a simple hammer?
-Toss the Ball joints in the freezer for an hour....
-Knock out old ball joints with a hammer...
-Heat up the rim of the hole where the Ball joint goes with the torch for 5 minutes...
-Take ball joints out the freezer and "tap" them in as soon as you can with the hammer...

BTW you can use that blow torch for future projects, like if you have an rusted nut or bolt.

Just try it...you'll see how easy it is!

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

^I like that my knuckles still have paint on them.

Still a decent alternative.

tony_2018

I rather keep my 15 bucks and rent the tool.

94EG8

You don't even really need to freeze the ball joints or heat the knuckle. Take the boot off the old ball joint and use a hammer and the correct sized socket to knock it out, tap the new one in with a hammer being careful not to hit the center.

The biggest advantage to using the proper ball joint press is that you don't need to remove the knuckle from the car which does save a lot of time, but if the knuckle is already off the car it actually takes longer to use the proper press.

TomCat39

I can vouch for that.

Both knuckles are in my closet and the fight of trying to hold the knuckle in place with one breaker bar while I twisted the press with another breaker bar was a painful and long process on my living room floor.

tony_2018

Whoa....balljoint removal w/o removing the knuckle from the car? I know the wheel bearing its possible but the balljoint?

94EG8

You still need to separate the lower ball joint. I can't remember anymore if you need to do the tie rod end to get enough clearance to remove the axle or not. But this way you don't need to touch the brakes or upper balljoint.

tony_2018

Ok so basically the upper balljoint will hold the spindle in midair, yeah the tie rod might have to be removed and the axle as well. Oh well, when the time comes for me to replace another balljoint I'll give it a try.

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

Once the axle is out and the lower ball joint is separated, the knuckle will pull toward you (and flip upward) no problem.

- Remove hub-nut
- Separate lower ball joint
- Pull axle out of knuckle and lay to the side (support if necessary)
- Remove snap ring & ball joint boot
- Assemble tools on ball joint
- Press out
- Assemble tools on new ball joint
- Press in
- Install snap ring
- Insert Axle
- Connect knuckle to lower arm & install/torque castle nut
- Install hub nut
- Install wheel (sans center cap)
- Torque & stake hub nut & install center cap

k3ntegra

I punctured my new ball joint boot (imaging a pin going through it) while try to remove and replace the snap ring plier (tangled with the circlip boot retainer). Grease was oozing out of it. After googling, Shoe Goo, or maybe regular super glue are the only proper ways to seal it up. Don't use heat. Also don't waste your time with AC Delco ball joints (or anyone with a similar design to it). Moog K9802 seems to be the only aftermarket ball joint under $40 worth getting, although there is one by Detroit Axle with a similar design & 10 year warranty. Only use the retaining ring that comes with the ball joint, as the design/thickness seems different.

After doing this 5 times on a 3rd gen non-Type R Integra, the best way to do this on these models, is to set aside the A and B bushing adapters, so the C-Clamp will fit, then once the ball joint is out or in 1/2 an inch, then utilize the A and B adapter if you want to; I would highly recommend it when removing. The silver C-Clamp seem to have a tendency to bend and possibly break.

https://i.imgur.com/k5rXozC.jpg

Powerbuilt makes a Honda Ball Joint adapter kit (641321), that is $20; though it may be more prone to bending/breaking.

jfboy

The whole weight of the front car rests on these lower ball joints. This is the one item on your car you should never try to save money on. The consequence of a failing front lower ball joint is very very dire.

I recommend you buy OEM Honda ball joints.

99ULEV

Where do you buy yours? I got some (obviously) cheap ones on ebay but stopped short of installing them. Had the tools from Autozone but kind of chickened out when I couldn't find a circlip to remove (maybe the factory balljoint doesn't have one?) and didn't feel like wading into a murky afternoon of work. So I just used the new boot and grease. But that dude is worn out (150,000) and I'd like to get it done.

BiggieBert

I order all my oem parts from hondapartsnow.com, well lately I have been making the order and then taking it to my local Homda and having them price match.

TomCat39

Yes, OEM balljoints do not use the c-clip. They are press fit as well as bolted into place, the c-clip is not necessary on OEM joints do to perfect fit. Aftermarket are a touch longer so the c-clip prevents the joint from working it's way up the 3mm or so that might be possible.

The TRW ball joints I bought didn't have a c-clip either but also didn't have provisions for the cotter pin, instead I used Loctite on the castle nuts.

PatrickGSR94

iTrader: (1)

Alright guys I just did this on my Integra with the same tools, although I rented mine from O’Reiley. I found that I had to push the ball joint in slightly using only D and B, before I had enough room in the C clamp to get the F part in there along with the E plate on top. Not sure if the C clamp in the kit I rented was slightly shorter or what. But I got it all done anyway without much issue.