skaternak

will bad commpression make my injectors not want to work, cause i checked compression and its way below specs. and my injectors will not fire. we hooked up the noid to it to see if it lights when i crank but nothing, i've checked everything already so iono what the problem is. fuses, main relay, ecu, FI wiring for continuity, volts ohms, everything is good, but will not shoot gas in when i crank. help pleasse

Ruben19

no. check fuel pump .
how bad is your compression

waaBAAH

first check for fuel psi

do you hear the fuel pump come on with key on? listen to the backseat since that is where the fuel pump is at.

then loosen your fuel filter on the passenger firewall. is fuel coming out with key on? yeah it can get messy but you proably dotn have a guage. if you had a guage it wouldnt be so messy. breathe in deep!!!

what is your compression? what is your wet compression?

was the motor sittign for awhile?

do you have spark?

chinochanginc

put some oil in the cylinders b4 u crank it..

skaternak

did compression, about 50 psi average, we compression average 60, one of them went to 150 psi, i dont know if its my rings or headgasket, it eats oil too, fuel is good, when i turn key on i hear the fuel pump, i open the fuel line to the fuel rail, turn key on it shoots out, so its working, i get voltage to the fuel injectors wires when key is on, but when i crank its like the ecu is not grounding itself, i put my ecu in my cousins civic and it works. i put his ecu in mine it doesnt.

Jackal6042

If this is in your 00 Civic look at buying a used motor. It isn't the ECU, or injectors, or fuel pump. Your motor is ****ed with compression numbers like that.

Have you checked to make sure the timing belt didn't jump a few teeth? Sounds like you have some bent *** valves or at the very least shot rings and jacked up cylinders.

Either way, replace the motor.

skaternak

i am gonna check that today to see if it skipped a few teeth, but the injector wiring still wont fire in. used the noid everytime, it will not blink when i crank

skaternak

i got the compression test hose stuck in the head, i cant twist it out, can anyone help me take it out whoever lives in the stockton, ca area? i need help

skaternak

does low compression mean its bad, because i just did it and my car been sitting in the garage for 3 weeks before i tested it, is that normal or should it still be 128-184 psi?

waaBAAH

i think you need to be at 128 for that cylinder to fire correctly. you could be at 80-100 psi for the cylinder but it might misfire ever now and then. so it may fire up at 50 psi but more then likely it will not. and if it did fire then im sure it will sound like a john deere tractor.

how many times did you "crank" the motor while checking compression? i believe you have to have battery power cranking (no hand cranking lol) and crank the motor at least 5-8 compression strokes. the first 3 compression strokes should jump up quite a bit. i.e. 50, then 95, tehn 130, then 150

low compression could be a couple of things... if it is all four cylinders with low compression might mean timing is way off. defenitly check your timing.

another reason for really low compression is if you have no spark and were cranking the car for long periods of time resulting in a "washing" effect of the oil inside your cylinder resulting in not a tight seal of your pistons rings. an easy way to check this is to squirt a little bit of oil down the cylinder. maybe a spoonful. this is considered a "wet" compression test. see if your num,bers yield higher this way. you can also smell your dipstick to see if you smell raw fuel in your oil. raw fuel in oil is bad since it doesn make you lose compression from that washing effect.

teh other reasons for low compression.... any bent valves or valve, head gasket, cracked head, crack block, piston rings. the true way to tell whats bad is to invest in a leakdown compression tester. you would hook up air to your compression tester and slowly crank the motor by hand and depending on where the air is coming out during the compression stroke you could make a pinpoint diagnoisis. does air come out exhaust?? thats exhaust valve....does air come out radiator?..thats head gasket etc...

as for loosing your compression tester down the spark lug tube?.. if you have one like mine try taking a 18 mm deep socket...and grinding it down pretty good. i beleivve the 18mm is the correct size but the socket itself is a littel big for your spark plug hole. next time dont he-man the compression tester down by twisting. that is why there are rubber gaskets on the ends.

as for you injectors not firing.. dont worry about it until you find whats wrong with your low compression. are your trying to backprobe the injectors or are you disconnecting the harness and installing the noid?

skaternak

i installed a noid

waaBAAH

lol.. thats all you say? nice!

skaternak

sorry i installed a noid and when i crank it does not light up. when i did the compression test, it was sitting in the garage for 3 weeks. so im not sure if the compression should be low on a cold engine. but the main reason my car wont start is because fuel is not going in because of the wires. i did everything to test it, checked fuses, checked main relay, fuel pump, fuel filter pcm, everything is fine. but its still not shooting in gas. i got the hose out by the way, thanks for the idea

Former User

I assume that you originally measured battery voltage at the injector clips with the key in ON(II)? Do you get the same result with the key in ON(III) and the engine cranking?

Have you inspected the injector pins in the ECU connector for damage? Is there continuity on these ECU injector wires?

skaternak

with the key on i used a test light, with is cranking i used a noid, continuity is good, i switched my pcm with my cousins gsr, his car started, and my main fuel relay, they both started on his car

waaBAAH

do you have spark?

list all your grounds that you checked

Former User

I was wondering whether your ignition switch may be bad. Will the noid tester tell you whether the injector loses power with the engine cranking in ON(III)?

Former User

Good questions. A bad ECU ground could also explain the problem.

skaternak

yes i do have spark, i have a grounding kit on my car, so i checked all of them they were all good. where is there a ground for the pcm?

skaternak

the ignition switch is good, cause i 8 balled it, and it cranks but not over, and the noid tester did not even blink when it is cranked

waaBAAH

all im finding is main ground for ecu is g101 (i think that is thermostat ground?). i thought there was a ground located somewhere near the ecu and grounded to the passenger kick panel area. not 100 percent sure on this.

im trying to find a schemetic for you as well but the "yes to spark" answer from you kind of throws me off.

another simple thing you can do is to crank the car...and leave the key in the on II position. then check for any codes.

does your check engine light light up for two seconds then go out?

might not work since you basically cleared the codes with removal of your ECU with your friends car but maybe you get lucky.

how to check your CEL https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/how-pull-cel-d4-srs-abs-codes-code-lists-1901557/

skaternak

i get a cel everytime i crank and is code 22 which is vtec system malfunction. other HTechers say that this doesnt matter with the fuel not shooting in. but for the ground schematic, i would very much appreciate that because my dad is forcing me to take my car to his friends shop tomorrow

waaBAAH

yes code 22 doesnt make a difference in starting. i will try to find a schemetic for you

Former User

You have spark and the fuel pump primes, so the G101 ECU ground wire on the thermostat housing is fine.

What does this mean:

You should check for battery voltage at the fuel injector connector with the key in ON(III)/engine cranking.

skaternak

did that with a test light, got voltage when car is in on II position. cranked with a noid and no voltage