Hatch Man

EDIT: Problems have been resolved with the car not turning off, speedometer not working, VTEC not working, fuel pump staying on, rough idle, etc in my new b20v swap into my 99ek hatch which was originally a d16y7 auto. Wiring was obd2b em1 harness, obd2b cabin (automatic) harness, a jumper and a chipped JDM p72. Jump to page 2 for answers!

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So I just got back my car from the shop yesterday who did my b20vtec swap into my EK hatch and basically, they have to keep two plugs into the new p72 (chipped) ecu, and one in the automatic ecu, or the car will not turn off. Doing so (keeping one plug in the auto ecu), negates a tach, speedometer, CEL's, vtec and whatever else....

HOWEVER---- when I plug the third plug into the new ecu/jumper, the car's tach works, the CEL works, but the car WILL NOT TURN OFF!!!
I can quite literally remove the key, and it will still run until I unplug the third plug on the ECU (the plug I'm talking about is the one unplugged in the photos). Ive never seen some **** like this. what the hell??

Some backround info on the harness---- EM1 harness w/ vtec, and wired for RDX 440cc injectors, and the alternator was rewired to an obd1 alternator (used an obd2->obd1 converter and wired based on the conversion -no brainer)
in the cabin is an obd2b automatic ek hatch harness.

If anyone has any sort of advice, please let me know. I'm so lost right now lmao

third plug still in auto ECU (which is the one in the kickpanel)
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p72 chipped, and jumped w/ two of the three plugs in (third plug removed when turning car off) - car turns off by key when third plug is in auto ECU


heres a pic of all of it.....

Hatch Man

I was just asked by a tuner if the jumper may be a jumper for an obd1->obd2A so I guess I can try looking at the diagram and looking at that

NVturbo

Demand some compensation for their ****-up and have someone knowledgeable fix it correctly.

purgat0ry

iTrader: (3)

Hack job and a half, take that **** back with a quickness.

Hatch Man

okay, so....... here's what I've noticed.....

I'm definitely using obd2b harness w/ obd2b auto cabin harness, with an obd2b -> obd1 ecu pumper.

When all plugs are plugged into the p72 (chipped specifically for every single modification on the car, head, injectors, pump, block/compression, etc), and I start the car to ON, the fuel pump CONTINUES priming and does not stop. my reverse lights do not work, the clutch pedal does not have to be depressed (Nor did they swap the manual pedal over), my speedometer does not work, which means the car redlines at the 4200 2-step (does not shift over that)...... they stuck my STOCK (1.75") exhaust onto the vehicle and did not attempt to put the new 2.5" on (its an em1 exhaust, which can be fabbed)---

I paid 650 for the swap, spent way too much on parts and everything..... I'm just lost right now and I keep getting screwed.

what should I do, or what sounds like the problem? the VSS is from a manual civic btw, not the auto..... I'm just a little confused and worried.

lastly, the automatic shifter hole was not covered- they just put the console over it...... and while I'm new to driving a stick, I feel like I shouldn't get a wobble in my gears.... basically saying that the shifter wiggles around when in gear, almost as much as neutral........

NVturbo

-- Fuel pump primes for a few seconds and you should hear it stop...when you turn it to "ON"
-- reverse lights do not work because they did not wire it correctly...wire connector in front of the shifter
-- clutch pedal...they did NOT wire up the clutch safety switch sensor
--- to cover up the old "automatic" shifter hole, all was needed was metal plate...screwed/bolted to the car to secure the shift boot. A round 3-4" hole is needed, covered up with a rubber boot to prevent exhaust smoke from entering the cabin
-- wobble when in gear..."bitch" pin was not installed. Look underneath at the shift linkage rods, near the connection of the tranny. I bet those ***** put a screw and bolt there instead.


They screwed you over with that swap. That's all I can say, man.

Hatch Man

-So with the fuel pump, it stays on, and does not stop priming- any thoughts?
-reverse lights easy to do?
-with the shifter, they literally stuck it through a 5x5 square hole. I don't believe they secured the linkage, because I feel air coming through the boot.
-as far as the pin, ill take a look when I'm off work and get it in the air

I tried to check the engine light through the service connector, and it stayed solid- it did not flash, which leads me to believe its a 0 code-
I'm going to check the main relay (someone said that may be it, keeping the fuel pump running- also thinking that, if the fuel pump is still delivering fuel to a combusting engine, it wont stop running)???
I'm going to check the g101 ground wire on the thermostat, because that's a big one, supposedly- and I'm going to check the 13/44 fuses...

its weird how the motor shuts off via key when the third plug remains in the automatic obd2b p2e ECU, doesn't allow the tach/speedo, but when the third plug stays in the jumper/p72, it still runs after the key is out, but does allow the tach to rev up to the 2-step launch as a 4600 rev limit..... wtf....

mk378

The only way it wouldn't stop by turning the key off is if someone crossed one of the "always live" circuits over to an "ignition" circuit. That just isn't going to happen with plug and play adapters. Somewhere in that car, someone has done something very wrong.

Clearly those guys know nothing about electrical systems, or mechanical ones either. Demand your money back. All of it.

tony_2018

What automatic transmission are you using? Images of everything else.

Hatch Man

It was a y7 auto with a p2e obd2b, the cabin harness was of that..

Ok so I got the error codes.
6 - coolant temp sensor (how? The things working on the dash)..
10- IAT - taped on the side of the intake... No place in the intake for it
17 - VSS... I JUST BOUGHT ONE... Manual vss . Idk if it's D or B but it's longer and bigger than the auto
20 - electronic load detector..... Tf??

Yeah the fuel pump is still priming and doesn't stop.
Turning key doesn't turn it off

ShinsenTuner

iTrader: (1)

1. First of all, you shouldn't have two ECU's in the car. Regardless of it being an automatic chassis that is swapped over.
   
2. Reverse lights will not work as the factory chassis harness is still looking for a signal from the shifter console instead of the transmission switch. You can wire this up easily, there are DIY guides out there for this.
   
3. Your car will start without the clutch depressed because there is no safety switch, so there's that. Wire it in.
   
4. The play you're feeling in the shifter is probably because of bad shifter linkage or bushings. I'd suggest you check those underneath the car.
   
5. I'm not entirely sure why the car won't turn off with the OBD1 ECU completely plugged in. I can't even begin to trouble shoot without knowing what the engine harness looks like or what they did to everything. For such a straight forward swap, they really fucked a lot of things up.

Hope this kind of helps. Please post more photos of the harness, and under dash wiring. I'm curious if they wired the fuel pump right into a 12v constant. They could have even messed with the ignition column. Who knows.

Megalodong

Take it back to the shop and tell them to straighten it out. However, if they refuse you need to be prepared to take them to small calims court so you need to document everything. Bring a friend (witness) with you the next time you got to their shop and write down key parts of your conversation with them. Find out about recording (audio and video) laws in your state..maybe you can record your conversation with them with or without their permission? Better yet have them put in writing how they are going to fix the issue and you grt a copy as well. I like to do business via emails for this very reason. Did they give you a written estimate and copy of the bill that includes exactly what was done to your car?

tony_2018

answer my question

Hatch Man

I stated it was a y7 auto.
I'm currently using an Integra LS transmission.

JRCivic1

I have said this maybe a hundred times on here... and people still want to argue with me on interchangeability, but it is ALWAYS best to modify the OE engine harness to fit the new engine because of the integration with the chassis harness. If you look at the photo two above my post, you see the green crossover plug. Notice that the engine harness side has a small cluster of wires on one corner while the chassis side of the plug has MANY wires that are not reaching any opposing wiring... wanna bet that there is a problem or two here ???

As for the reverse lights, they have to be joined between the center auto shifter plug and the crossover plug. Also, you may have to consider the possibility that the adapter harness is a POS and you need to replace it with a quality one... my suggestion is a "Boomslang Fabrication" product. You can make the clutch switch work but it will require some creative wiring to do so. Normally this is done with a ground thru the clutch sensor that closes a relay connecting the Park/Neutral safety switch in the center auto shifter plug. As long as you don't have an auto start system in the car, I am not sure this feature is a big deal. Just use some common sense during your start procedure.

As for the job that you paid for... NO quality shop would have done what you needed done in this conversion for what you paid. You can fight with them all you want as suggested by many above... but the truth is, it is obvious that they are not capable of making it right at this point, so WHY would you want to try and force them to make it right ??? Did you provide the engine harness or did they provide it ??? If it was you... I say take your lumps and move on. Find another reputable Honda shop that can help... or get prepared to learn on the fly yourself and fix it.

Lastly, would you please tell us what YEAR and MODEL chassis you have and what engine/transmission combination you installed into the engine bay.

tony_2018

LS automatic or ls 5spd? Keep playing donkey games and you won't get an answer to why this stupid setup isn't working.

tony_2018

Hatch Man

dude, i already stated five times that its a 5sp LS. its in my sig, as well....

FULL SPECS;
1999 EJ6 hatchback (ek)
pr3-3 (1989) B16a head. supertech valves, springs retainers
GS-R camshafts
b20b high comp block, fresh rebuild.
skunk2 pro b16 intake
fully rebuilt LS transmission
1999 em1 harness. harness was adapted to use RDX injectors, and rewired to use an OBD1 alternator. (obd2b)
1999 EK AUTOMATIC cabin harness (obd2b)

JRCivic1

So, are you saying that the car was originally automatic and the cabin harness is what came in it from the factory ??? When you highlight a component, it makes us think you have changed it. We need to talk about things that might be causing your issues... GSR cams and a freshly built B20B block are NOT it.

The fact that you have an ELD code (code 20) suggests a wiring problem... this code occurs when a ground is getting power, or visa versa.

Do you still have the original '99 auto engine harness ???

JRCivic1

Oh, and your signature does NOT have the information... it has a link to another one of your threads. Do I have to search through pages of blather in your other thread to get the answers I need to help you ??? Come on pal... help US help YOU. Simple, concise answers are best.

My car runs just fine... you are the one with the heartaches... do you want help or not ???

Hatch Man

Alright, well I haven't kept up with it 100%

I'm running a chipped p72 that was tuned by a member here, on a basemap for every component of this build, including the GSR cams, the built head, exhaust, etc. He tunes cars for a living btw. Every spec was tuned accordingly.

The only code it's shooting now is 6 - coolant temp sensor, which doesn't make any sense, because the temp displays fine.

The car stopped starting today, so I bought a new main relay which got the car running again, however the speedo / fuel pump still primes constantly and the car still does not turn off without the key.
I actually found out, that, if I unplug the third plug with the key still in, the car still stays on, and turns off with the key off, however, if i remove the key first it will not turn off until the third plug is removed (the plug that's removed in the photo)

Yes, I am still using the automatic cabin harness.
No I don't have the original engine harness anymore. Im using the same year 99 em1 harness which was given to me by a friend who parted his Si out

tony_2018

What ****** yr is this hatchback?

mk378

The dash gauge works from a different temperature sensor than the ECU. They are right next to each other in the head, but different sensors and independent wiring.

Clearly a total review of this car's wiring both under the hood and under dash is necessary.

JRCivic1

1999 Tony.

Hatch Man

Tony, I would appreciate it if you could stop replying to my thread. You have done nothing to help in my opinion and have asked questions that are easily implied or stated- thanks