NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

I give up. You're hopeless. Just stop.

Swanky_things

your right I didn't read it though even your last post cause you completely missed the point... the kid said hes on a budget obviuously he aint doing swaps that's why I said what I did and your teling me you cant pull 2.5 hp out of a d block wit ha mild turbo reliably? ok your right

Swanky_things

o I geuss my one post didn't make it since tom cat was busy deleting all my **** from not a racist being a big cry baby .... what I said was this guy said hes on a budget he aint doing swaps ( im being technical here so everyone calm down) thus a basic turbo set up done at home will do the trick.

but since you read his thread so carefully and you read the fact that he don't want to dump tons of money in his ride get over technical so you feel right and miss the fact that he doesn't have the money to be swaping out motors on his daily driver

Swanky_things

not a racist is completely right you have to do a motor swap to achive your basic goal (not)_

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Right, now that that problem has been dealt with...

OP, since you live in CA, I'm sure you're already aware of some unique laws that apply specifically to you. You basically have three options, if you're hard-set of a goal of 250WHP.

Option #1: Forged internals (rods and pistons), and a properly sized turbo. Given CA laws, you would have to get forged internals that maintain stock'ish compression ratio. Aftermarket marts are illegal in CA unless they are CARB certified, and I'm fairly sure there's no such thing as a CARB stamped rod or piston. If you use a piston/rod combination that maintains stock compression ratio, it's one of those "no one will ever know" things. Once you have the forged internals done, and the motor rebuilt, you would have to get a CARB stamped turbo kit. Both Edelbrock and Greddy make CARB-certified kits.

Option #2: A turbo'd LS (B18A1/B1) swap. You would want to use a motor from 93-95 to keep it legal and simple, and would also need to swap over all related emissions equipment. Plenty of people do it, and you shouldn't have any problem finding write-ups. Once you have that part covered, you'll then need to turbo it, but you won't need the forged internals. You would want to find a turbo kit that is CARB certified for the motor, meaning a 93-95 Integra LS/GS/RS chassis. This option will be a little bit pricier, but mechanically easier since you won't have to deal with rebuilding an engine. You'll also be capped in the range of 300 BHP.

Option #3: Get a CARB-certified kit for your current motor, and install it. This will be the cheapest option, and easiest to do legally. You'll be capped at around 200 BHP, which is still plenty to have a fun, reliable DD.

brutal_ej2

i dont think im over thinking it, just careful planning i think. after all its my hard earned cash im spending, last thing i want is to end up right back where im at now. or even worse get everything done and get it up to the smog check shop and have them fail me because of missing e.o numbers. as far as doing the work in my driveway. thats already what im doing now. i was fortunate enough to have a house where my driveway leads to my back yard. so i pushed my car around to the back of my house. my dogs keep it secure, and its out of view from the street so the cops dont give me no **** about it being an "eyesore". so keep the block, stronger internals. reduce compression perhaps? just to give you all a better idea of what im trying to accomplish is essentially a full restoration of the car, with a "better than stock" frame of mind. or more accurately described "completely balanced". the car is as i bought it, minus the engine currently. the path i have in mind at the moment is to completely rebuild the entire engine, bottom end internals (forged pistons, piston rings, rods, bearings), head rebuild (cam, cam gear, valves, guides, seats, springs, and perhaps a pnp), all associated hardware replaced (head studs, motor mounts, torque damper, clutch and flywheel), i/h/e, turbo and associated parts, new axles (one of the cv boots is bad). i know i did say i was on a budget, but how budget effective can it be if it breaks sooner because i opted to go cheap on something?

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Definitely do not lower the compression. For legal reasons, keep it as close to stock as possible. The "lower compression for more boost" mentality is old and out-dated. Raised compression is actually preferable if you have a real tuner, for a number of reasons, but once again, legal issues and all that. Stick to as close to stock compression as you can. Stay within .2:1 of stock.

That period is small, so just to re-iterate... POINT two to one. Two tenths.

doctorake

This, plus if you are using a JDM block I would call the REF/BAR station and confirm you can use it before you even start.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

I wouldn't even waste my time with a JDM motor. With how much CA flip-flops on the legality of imported engines, and the fact that LS motors are literally a dime a dozen, there's just no reason for OP to import a motor. On top of that, an imported D series would still need forged internals, and an imported LS isn't any different than a USDM LS. There's just no reason to do it.

brutal_ej2

you have a half point notaracist, i wouldnt drop cash on a jdm engine that wasnt supposed to be a stock replacement for my car. to my knowledge ca has always allowed the use of jdm engines as long as that engine came in that chassis same year or newer. here in California we can rack up miles really quick, so the allure of a low mileage replacement engine has always been high. in a year i can put 26,208 miles on a car just commuting to and from work. doesnt count any other driving i may need or want to do. bottom line is i already have a jdm zc engine. i believe the lowest cost scenario would be for me to rebuild the current motor. i have an uncle that is an ase certified tech, ill pick his brain as well.

brutal_ej2

on a side note, i have been reading quite a bit about rod/stroke ratios. my zc is supposed to be somewhere around 1.52:1. in all the reading ive done about this particular subject all of the articles writers have said achieving a rod/stroke ratio of 1.75:1 to be an ideal ratio regardless of platform. their reasons for it being ideal is due to the lowered amount of stress that all of the moving parts in the bottom end sustain while at this "ideal rod/stroke" ratio (1.75:1), therefore allowing the engine to rev higher and be more accommodating to forced induction while maintaining lower stress levels. i know this is an entirely different direction of what im trying to do, just wondering if any of you have ever tried to do this. im sure its costly and takes a tremendous amount of research, math, and careful planning. like i said its a side note.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Rod/stroke and bore/stroke are a lot less important than you think they are, especially with modern oils.

brutal_ej2

never said it was important, just interesting. i only try to approach any endeavor from an informed stance. therefore i try to educate myself as much as possible before setting forth on said endeavor. as far as modern lubricants, ive been using nothing but royal purple motor oil for the past 10 years in every vehicle ive owned. i know the importance of good oil and im not afraid of dropping a little extra cash to get it. i believe i may have inaccurately conveyed my perception of "budget". to more adequately state my financial tolerances for this project, $1000.00 estimated for engine/rebuild, undecided for turbo system, $2000.00 for suspension, undecided on the rest as of yet. my main goals at this point are to get the engine running.

nub

You should consider swaping the dollar amount on the engine and suspension. I have no idea how you plan on spending 2K on the suspension. Being in CA. you're not going to do anything more than a stock rebuild of the engine for 1K. Even with the full 3K on the engine to include a CARB leagal turbo kit you'd be lucky to pull it off. The CARB kits are NOT cheap, even used.

You may want to rethink you goal, needs and budget.

brutal_ej2

you apparently dont read before you start typing. my budget for turbo is aside from engine rebuild budget. and its very easy to spend lots on suspension. the 2k i want to spend on suspension will encompass camber kit all the way around, adjustable coil overs, lower control arms, trailing arms, sub frame braces, strut tower braces, anti sway bars, and full bushing replacement. the 1k for the engine is just for the rebuild, i have yet to decide on a turbo budget because i know how expensive it can get. nothing is set in stone as of yet tho. still researching and planning. im looking to start dropping cash in may.

tony_2018

So..........from b20b to a turbo setup....but nothing is in progress..................

nub

He's waiting for someone to give him the answer he wants. Based on his reply to me his reading comprehension is lacking though.

brutal_ej2

my reading comprehension isnt lacking, just my cash flow is atm. hence to lack of "progress". to let you all know what ive acually been doing on this project is taking apart everything in the front end to get the engine bay ready for a couple coats of paint. figured since i had the front suspension out might as well upgrade. turns out the previous owner cut the front springs. spent about an hour yesterday scrubbing the front calipers to also give a couple coats of paint. originally thought a b20 would be a good base for building, and im sure it is. just cant do so here in cali unless i get a cr-v. and no im not waiting for someone to give me some sort of answer, if that were the case i wouldnt be looking here. but yeah, i know this is now heading in a different direction than where i wanted to go in the first place. im still not 100% sure as to what i want to do exactly to be completely honest, i just know i want the maximum yield for my hard earned cash. i also want it to be safe, and i also want to do it right the first time. is that so wrong of me?

tony_2018

You dont realize that the question is the type to be labelled as one, what you do to your car is and should be yours alone. Because you're in a state that hits the import scene pretty good when it comes to mods you already should know what you can and can't do also the limits as well.

92_civic_eg

This whole thing really is sort of confusing, can I just ask, what are you currently thinking about planning out? If you were me I would say build the d series and turbo.. I say if u were me bcuz I don't live in Cali and apparently being street legal with modifications is a real pain, Fortunately here in Florida they really couldn't give a rats ***...

brutal_ej2

yeah cali sucks on emissions regulations. my plans at the moment are to either build my zc, or get another complete engine. as it looks rite now d series are attractive due to the lower initial cost. i also want to fully build my suspension. because regardless of what power i do build, without a good suspension its just not safe. brake upgrade might also be in order.

tony_2018

bigger brakes will help, no need to change out yor lines unless there leaking. Cheap upgrade is to do a honda oem brake conversion, people use the acura legend calipers or s2k calipers with a bigger rotor. You should be able to find the article on here somewhere. GL and godspeed..................or not.

brutal_ej2

the lines arent leaking as far as i can see, they are however grease covered and making me worry a bit. for me to go bigger on the brakes im going to need bigger rims. i have vx rims atm, only 13". i had just done a brake job on the car before the engine blew, less than 500 miles on the pads and rotors. i do want to do a rear disk conversion. prob go to the junk yard for that tho. once i finally decide on a engine i will start a build thread. thanks for all the info.

tony_2018

ok......................

dirty19

iTrader: (1)

A B20 is not an option for you.
It will not pass a BAR inspection (light truck only)
Im surprised at the knowledge of the out of state people who know so much about California's smog laws