B18c5 in 94' civic.....wiring problems?
05-20-2004, 08:30 PM
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B18c5 in 94' civic.....wiring problems?
i know the motor s obd2 and my car is obd1, do i need obd2 wire harness and a jumper, or can i run obd1 wire harness and just move some wires before my ecu?....my car runs now just not right (no vtec and cuts out at 4500rpm's)
Help me out if ya know, please....
thanks
Help me out if ya know, please....
thanks
05-20-2004, 08:34 PM
#2
Former Moderator
Re: B18c5 in 94' civic.....wiring problems? (vtecciv)
If you get the swap complete you can simply use a mixture of stock Civic mounts with Integra brackets as seen here - pic courtesy of Katman:
This is coming from someone (me) that has a B18C5 in an EH. I'm running the stock Integra timing side mount and bracket, the stock Civic topside tranny mount, the Integra rear mount bracket with Civic mount with an Energy sus busing in it, front lower mount brackets are Integra-spec with stock 1992-1995 Civic rubber mounts with Energy sus bushings in them. The Energy sus bushings are only like $35.00 and they keep engine movement to a minimum even if they add some vibration to the rest of the car.
Here's some more info you might find helpful:
B18C5 engine wiring into a 1992-1995 Civic:
IMO the USDM ITR swap is easier to swap in. I've done this swap 3 times already and it is 100% easy especially if you run a re-chipped P28 and even more so if you have a 1992 Civic or any 1992-1995 Si, VX, or EX with VTEC wires.
Here's what you'd need too do if you have a USDM ITR swap:
KEEP the ITR engine harness. Regardless of what others say the plugs all plug right in. This way you get to keep the newer ITR distributor and injectors, and there is no need to rewire anything. Again this is from experience, not hearsay.
Using the Integra engine harness allows you to keep the newer distributor without having to change pins, you keep the newer ITR injectors, and you keep the newer alternator without having to make any plug changes.
Need proof? Here's some pics of my own ****:
BTW: before anyone gives me **** about not having a VIN plate on my tranny, it's a brand new one from the Acura dealer. New trannies are not assigned a VIN because they were not sold in a car. My old ITR tranny has the VIN plate that matches the donor vehicle that I purchased in whole back in 2001.
Old pic with the too common red V.C:
You'll have a few extra plugs left over on the ITR harness because the ITR has a few extras that our Civics don't have, like ABS, etc. You vcan just hide the extra plugs.
Now there's a few different ways to get an ECU to work, and I'll list them from easiest to hardest:
1. Re-chipped P28. This will simply plug in. No need to wire up for a knock sensor because the P28 doesn't read for one. Better fuel, timing, VTEC x-over, and rev limiter = more power. OBD1 so no need at all to run any sort of extra sensors.
2. Kenji OBD2 jumper harness and JDM P73 ECU. I ran this on my motor for a while before the kenji ECU. You'll have to wire up a knock sensor wire and that's about it. Drawbacks are that this ECU has a 113-115 speed limiter and it doesn't make the power that the kenji-spec P28 does. ThisECU has OBD2 type plugs but IT RUNS AN OBD1 PROGRAM AND IT IS ONLY OBD2 IN PLUGS!!! I ran this ECU with no extra o2 sensor, no crank fluctuation bullshit, etc.
3. Jumper harness with USDM P73 ECU. Why? I wouldn't do this unless I was in Cali and it was necessary for smog bullshit. You'd have to wire up all the extra OBD2 bullshit and the ECU sucks compared to a re-chipped P28.
So that's for the USDM motors, but what about the JDM ITR swaps?
As Apexi-ITR has said the JDM harness can be used. It requires some stretching but it will work. If you must get the factory look then get any OBD2 type engine harness from any USDM B18C1 or B18C5 and then it will plug right in just like I said the USDM swap does.
As far as ECU stuff goes, really a P28 is the better choice again but you will need to add a VTEC oil pressure switch onto the JDM ITR motor because it doesn't have one and the P28 looks for one. Just pull an oil pressure switch from another VTEC motor - didn't you use a SOHC one Apexi-ITR?
Or you can run the jumper harness and O.E JDM P73 ECU. This will save you from having to add the oil pressure switch, but you'll have to add a knock sensor and this ECU still has the shitty speed limiter.
USDM ECU? But why?
That's about all I can think of right now. I run the kenji-spec P28 ECU in my 1992 CX hatchback and with this method and keeping the ITR engine harness I did not have to add one single wire at all! It was absolutely 100% plug and play!
This is coming from someone (me) that has a B18C5 in an EH. I'm running the stock Integra timing side mount and bracket, the stock Civic topside tranny mount, the Integra rear mount bracket with Civic mount with an Energy sus busing in it, front lower mount brackets are Integra-spec with stock 1992-1995 Civic rubber mounts with Energy sus bushings in them. The Energy sus bushings are only like $35.00 and they keep engine movement to a minimum even if they add some vibration to the rest of the car.
Here's some more info you might find helpful:
B18C5 engine wiring into a 1992-1995 Civic:
IMO the USDM ITR swap is easier to swap in. I've done this swap 3 times already and it is 100% easy especially if you run a re-chipped P28 and even more so if you have a 1992 Civic or any 1992-1995 Si, VX, or EX with VTEC wires.
Here's what you'd need too do if you have a USDM ITR swap:
KEEP the ITR engine harness. Regardless of what others say the plugs all plug right in. This way you get to keep the newer ITR distributor and injectors, and there is no need to rewire anything. Again this is from experience, not hearsay.
Using the Integra engine harness allows you to keep the newer distributor without having to change pins, you keep the newer ITR injectors, and you keep the newer alternator without having to make any plug changes.
Need proof? Here's some pics of my own ****:
BTW: before anyone gives me **** about not having a VIN plate on my tranny, it's a brand new one from the Acura dealer. New trannies are not assigned a VIN because they were not sold in a car. My old ITR tranny has the VIN plate that matches the donor vehicle that I purchased in whole back in 2001.
Old pic with the too common red V.C:
You'll have a few extra plugs left over on the ITR harness because the ITR has a few extras that our Civics don't have, like ABS, etc. You vcan just hide the extra plugs.
Now there's a few different ways to get an ECU to work, and I'll list them from easiest to hardest:
1. Re-chipped P28. This will simply plug in. No need to wire up for a knock sensor because the P28 doesn't read for one. Better fuel, timing, VTEC x-over, and rev limiter = more power. OBD1 so no need at all to run any sort of extra sensors.
2. Kenji OBD2 jumper harness and JDM P73 ECU. I ran this on my motor for a while before the kenji ECU. You'll have to wire up a knock sensor wire and that's about it. Drawbacks are that this ECU has a 113-115 speed limiter and it doesn't make the power that the kenji-spec P28 does. ThisECU has OBD2 type plugs but IT RUNS AN OBD1 PROGRAM AND IT IS ONLY OBD2 IN PLUGS!!! I ran this ECU with no extra o2 sensor, no crank fluctuation bullshit, etc.
3. Jumper harness with USDM P73 ECU. Why? I wouldn't do this unless I was in Cali and it was necessary for smog bullshit. You'd have to wire up all the extra OBD2 bullshit and the ECU sucks compared to a re-chipped P28.
So that's for the USDM motors, but what about the JDM ITR swaps?
As Apexi-ITR has said the JDM harness can be used. It requires some stretching but it will work. If you must get the factory look then get any OBD2 type engine harness from any USDM B18C1 or B18C5 and then it will plug right in just like I said the USDM swap does.
As far as ECU stuff goes, really a P28 is the better choice again but you will need to add a VTEC oil pressure switch onto the JDM ITR motor because it doesn't have one and the P28 looks for one. Just pull an oil pressure switch from another VTEC motor - didn't you use a SOHC one Apexi-ITR?
Or you can run the jumper harness and O.E JDM P73 ECU. This will save you from having to add the oil pressure switch, but you'll have to add a knock sensor and this ECU still has the shitty speed limiter.
USDM ECU? But why?
That's about all I can think of right now. I run the kenji-spec P28 ECU in my 1992 CX hatchback and with this method and keeping the ITR engine harness I did not have to add one single wire at all! It was absolutely 100% plug and play!
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