B18C1 Rebuild
#1
B18C1 Rebuild
So i have a 93 del sol and im dropping the GSR into it and i want to rebuild the motor and turbo it. Im shooting for as close to 400whp as i can get. Here are my plans:
Extreme Port Job
Glass Bead
Fly Cut Head
Valve Job
Gasket Matched
Valves Lightened
New Radius on Valves
Extreme Reshaping of Valves
Staleited Nitrided Valves
Titanium Retainers
Silicone Bronze Valve Guides
Crank Lightening & Balancing w/ Micro Polish
Race Valve Springs
Eagle Rods
Forged Pistons
Skunk2 Intake Manifold
Skunk2 Cams
Now im not sure on what injectors & size, oil pump, lsd, clutch, cam gears, ecu, turbo kit i should go with so any help here would be great. From what iv listed what else should i do and what is your guys estimated power gain ill get. I plan on boosting 10-15psi maybe even more...
Extreme Port Job
Glass Bead
Fly Cut Head
Valve Job
Gasket Matched
Valves Lightened
New Radius on Valves
Extreme Reshaping of Valves
Staleited Nitrided Valves
Titanium Retainers
Silicone Bronze Valve Guides
Crank Lightening & Balancing w/ Micro Polish
Race Valve Springs
Eagle Rods
Forged Pistons
Skunk2 Intake Manifold
Skunk2 Cams
Now im not sure on what injectors & size, oil pump, lsd, clutch, cam gears, ecu, turbo kit i should go with so any help here would be great. From what iv listed what else should i do and what is your guys estimated power gain ill get. I plan on boosting 10-15psi maybe even more...
#3
Re: B18C1 Rebuild (miguel329)
go with rc 750 and s300 hondata, i would also shoot for T3/T4 turbo and maybe 3" exhaust, get 9:1.1 pistons and stay away from flat valves. stock oil pump
#4
Re: B18C1 Rebuild (EkFG)
rc 750 injectors ill have to read up about those. I figured a t3/t4 turbo would be the best idea. Now are you sure i should use the stock oil pump? Also is there anythings else that i should rebuild or add to the engine?
#6
Senior Member
You seem to be throwing around a lot of terms that aren't usually mentioned when discussing a high powered B series setup. There are reasons for this. You also seem to have overlooked a lot of the details that usually are mentioned when discussing a high powered B series setup. There are much different reasons for this.
First off, you have a horsepower goal.....which is good, but you seem to have little idea of what it actually takes to get there. Fortunately this site is filled with all the necessary insight/information you'll need.
Headwork isn't necessary, but it will make your life easier, so it's a reasonable place to start. Most porters will take your manifolds and match them when they do the porting. Find yourself someone reputable and have them do the whole thing all at once. Worry less about the valves. A good valve job with OEM valves and guides will be good enough, but also understand that a really aggressive valve job won't last very long in the scheme of things.
On the bottom end, I saw no mention of sleeving. Sleeving is not a necessity when dealing with a potential 400 whp build, but it's certainly not a bad idea. You'll need to figure out what static compression ratio you need. Also you won't need to lighten the crank and it's generally balanced pretty well from the factory. Consider getting some ARP main studs, buy new oil and water pumps, and be sure to get correctly sized bearings.
Figure out what size turbo you want, and understand that the turbo is a comparatively small part of the equation. A good manifold and downpipe will work wonders with any turbo. Make sure you consider your intercooler size, your intercooler plumbing, and the effects of heat on various parts of the setup.
Before you do anything, find yourself a tuner and start researching similar setups in the Forced Induction forum. Figure out what type of engine management you plan on running and if your tuner is familiar with it. Begin discussing your plans and your time frame for those plans and get a good idea of what your in for. This whole project is probably going to cost more and take longer than you expect. Also don't waste people's time: if your young, broke, and don't have a solid and workable time frame, people aren't going to want to deal with you at all. There are a lot of jaded, bitter people in the industry and they got that way by dealing with dreamers.
There's a lot you need you need to know before turning the first wrench on something like this, and high powered turbo B setups aren't "learn as you go" scenarios. Come to the table prepared and you'll save lots of time and money, and possibly an engine or two.
First off, you have a horsepower goal.....which is good, but you seem to have little idea of what it actually takes to get there. Fortunately this site is filled with all the necessary insight/information you'll need.
Headwork isn't necessary, but it will make your life easier, so it's a reasonable place to start. Most porters will take your manifolds and match them when they do the porting. Find yourself someone reputable and have them do the whole thing all at once. Worry less about the valves. A good valve job with OEM valves and guides will be good enough, but also understand that a really aggressive valve job won't last very long in the scheme of things.
On the bottom end, I saw no mention of sleeving. Sleeving is not a necessity when dealing with a potential 400 whp build, but it's certainly not a bad idea. You'll need to figure out what static compression ratio you need. Also you won't need to lighten the crank and it's generally balanced pretty well from the factory. Consider getting some ARP main studs, buy new oil and water pumps, and be sure to get correctly sized bearings.
Figure out what size turbo you want, and understand that the turbo is a comparatively small part of the equation. A good manifold and downpipe will work wonders with any turbo. Make sure you consider your intercooler size, your intercooler plumbing, and the effects of heat on various parts of the setup.
Before you do anything, find yourself a tuner and start researching similar setups in the Forced Induction forum. Figure out what type of engine management you plan on running and if your tuner is familiar with it. Begin discussing your plans and your time frame for those plans and get a good idea of what your in for. This whole project is probably going to cost more and take longer than you expect. Also don't waste people's time: if your young, broke, and don't have a solid and workable time frame, people aren't going to want to deal with you at all. There are a lot of jaded, bitter people in the industry and they got that way by dealing with dreamers.
There's a lot you need you need to know before turning the first wrench on something like this, and high powered turbo B setups aren't "learn as you go" scenarios. Come to the table prepared and you'll save lots of time and money, and possibly an engine or two.
#7
Re: (Kendall)
Thanks for the advice kendall! Though i have some questions why should i forget about the valves. Should i do anything with the valves at all or just use the stock ones or replace them with new? Yes, i didnt mention it but of course i will be sleeving the block. New oil and water pumps and studs are already done. Now the bearings i still need so i will get the correct size. For the turbo im not really sure on what to do because i have only worked on NA motors and this is my first Forced Induction Build. I figured just going with a reliable turbo kit from greddy or whom ever would work but im still looking into what would be the best.
My goal from this swap is just to have a fully built b motor that i wont have to worry about blowing with the turbo at all. Again as i said im new to Forced Induction so any help is appreciated! I have the time, money, patience and learning curve for this job and will be performing most the work myself with the exception of tuning, head work and harder tasks. For the most part my main goal is just to shut up all the sti and evo drivers here in colorado. I just want to be able to look at my car and say man i did a good job with this motor, without the worry of just bolting a turbo on it and calling it good.
My goal from this swap is just to have a fully built b motor that i wont have to worry about blowing with the turbo at all. Again as i said im new to Forced Induction so any help is appreciated! I have the time, money, patience and learning curve for this job and will be performing most the work myself with the exception of tuning, head work and harder tasks. For the most part my main goal is just to shut up all the sti and evo drivers here in colorado. I just want to be able to look at my car and say man i did a good job with this motor, without the worry of just bolting a turbo on it and calling it good.
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