Shake and Bake

Ok, well i finished the swap and was driving it today everything felt great and then after flooring it and hitting vtec a few times the check engine light came on. I think its the check engine light (it is yellow and it says check, and i thought it would be red). The car runs and drives great, so do you think this is a problem or it just came on because its a different motor?

Its a 98 civic ex with a b18c1 motor.

Update:
Ok, well i started my car today and another problem occured (wtf). It drove fine for the first 15 mins. THen i started it up again 30 mins later and took it for a drive and it drives like ****. It has no power and is bogging like crazy like its running real rich. And it sounds like a harley davison motorcycle.




Modified by AllmotaBseries at 12:27 PM 6/16/2006

Essenar83

Did you properly wire the IAB/Knock wires?

ekb16

iTrader: (1)

have u even checked wut the code was

Shake and Bake

Havnt done anything yet. It was fine all day and then it came on like 6 hours later when i took it for another spin. I cant check anything now, but dont you think that the check engine light would come on from the beginning if it wasnt wired right?

BseriesHeaven

I have the same motor and its on all the time..and yes its yellow, and its not a problem.. How do you like the motor?

Shake and Bake

Well can i drive with it like that. Or should i get it checked out?

Syndacate

It's probably ur vtec selenoid with the way ur describing it, take it to autozone first thing tomorrow, I'm not sure if u can jump the wire like u can the P28 with the P72 (GSR ECU) to pull codes, so just take it to autozone or pepboys whatever u have by u and get the code checked, just keep the RPM's under the vtec crossover (whatever RPm's that is on a GSR I'm not sure) - should still be in the computer as long as u didn't restart it too many times to clear the code

and no, CEL is orange, not red, so that is the CEL..

it's probably a vtec code the way ur describing it, could be something else though, just watch ur temp while ur driving, like I said, get the code checked out ASAP, there's a million and one things it can be so nobody can really answer ur question...even if it doesn't come on tomorrow it'll be in the memory, so just first thing tomorrow, and dont' wind it out too much...

Good Luck getting it fixed

Shake and Bake

Ok, well i started my car today and another problem occured (wtf). It drove fine for the first 15 mins. THen i started it up again 30 mins later and took it for a drive and it drives like ****. It has no power and is bogging like crazy like its running real rich. And it sounds like a harley davison motorcycle.

Shake and Bake

bump

wakeboard_dude5

go to your local autozone, shucks, or whatever autoparts store is around. Most will be able to check what the code is and you can go from there. That one code will be able to tell you what you need to do to make things work.

Shake and Bake

I just went to autozone and they said they couldnt check it because the enging light isnt on. What now??

tatmark1

pull the code yourself.....search this site for a how to
autozone = bunch of dumb f@cks

tatmark1

retard. light comes on for a reason = some kind of problem.<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BseriesHeaven &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have the same motor and its on all the time..and yes its yellow, and its not a problem.. How do you like the motor?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Shake and Bake

It was throwing code 17 which is speedo sensor. So could that cause all my problems?? And i red lined a lil bit and now my forth gear is kind hard to shift in and out of.

Archidictus

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AllmotaBseries &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It was throwing code 17 which is speedo sensor. So could that cause all my problems?? And i red lined a lil bit and now my forth gear is kind hard to shift in and out of.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think you should stop driving the **** out of your car until you get your hack-job installation issues fixed, idiot. Seriously: who the expletive thinks, "Wow! My CEL is burning up my gauge cluster...let's go hit the expletive out of VTEC!"

Moron.

Shake and Bake

lol that made me laugh. So could that sensor cause those problems??

Rock Meathammer

The actual speed sensor itself causing your problem? NO! Your crazy, probably fucked up wiring? YES! The speed sensor is also related to your main alternator wiring, (hence, when the alt. is going bad, you sometimes get a jumpy speedo) It is also directly related to your electrical load detector. The fact that the code does not stay on means that it is an intermittent problem, which tells me it is electrical.

But again, what do I know? I only have 6 ASE's and have been doing this for over 6 years.

Get it checked out by someone with experience. Otherwise you will cost yourself time and money.