Jcampa19

I drive a 95 eg hatch and it has a B18A1 LS engine and had continuous problems with it. Drove to work and the engine finally ate **** and started knocking on me.

I've been doing continuous research on which engine I want. Seems like the LS-V is very over rated but puts out well. Considered the B16 and Ive seem to catch a ton of interest in the GSR engine.

What am I looking at as far as reasonable pricing on the B18C with full swap? Or what do you guys recommend what engine I should go with? I don't have a budget but I'm not trying to go K-series or H seriesn. I already have B series mounts. Help!

Keep in mind I'm sort of a noob to all this. Be easy on me lol

ecko_3420

iTrader: (1)

Ive had a usdm gsr motor and currently on a lsv motor..between he 2, for the price u cant beat the lsv. If done right, lsv are excellent motors.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Opinion poll. No tech.

Do some legwork and curate your own research.

B20VtecVillain

I would say the same, I have an EM1 SI, which came with the stock B16a2 when I got it. With simple bolt ons and tuning I made 170whp but still didn't break 110ft/lb TQ and always noticed it on the street. The little B16 is a great performer and they are super fun for boost, but NA the powerband is just not ideal in my opinion for a street/strip car. I chose to go the hybrid route and use my B16 head to make a B20Vtec. Which is essentially just an 84mm (2.0L) bore LSvtec. I couldn't be happier. Never had a single problem either and I'm nearly 14,000 miles into the build. Saved atleast $1000 over a similarly built GSR and the only thing I'm lacking vs a B18c is the piston oilers which has never proved to be an issue.

Jcampa19

B20 is the CRV block, right? I've heard plenty of good things about a B20-V build, but I have a heavy foot. Will a B20 handle some "punishment"?

B20VtecVillain

Any engine you chose cN be capable of takin punishment as you say. That capability lies within the build, tuning, and maintenance more so than the type of engine your working with. A crappy tune and lack of proper maintenance can make even the stoutest of built blocks crumble and at the same time a well maintained and properly thought out stock block can be made to take every ounce of thrashing you give it. None of these engines you mention will fail you if you do the right thing and don't skimp out where it counts.

Charlie Moua

iTrader: (3)

b16 if you want to keep it cheap and under 180whp.

if you want more than 180whp, look else where than that b16

sidewayz2013

I've seen a couple built B20Vs make around 200, even 250 hp NA. They're good motors if you do it right.

Jcampa19

I'll go with the B20-V then. I'll start off with a few bolt ons and do more research as to what to do with it internally. much appreciated fellas.

Jcampa19

I'm also being told that the B20 sleeves are weak from a few mechanic friends of mine. From your knowledge and everyone else here, do you recommend the LS or B20? I might take this to the poll.

sidewayz2013

A B20 block does have relatively weaker sleeves. However, it really only becomes an issue if you boost it. If you leave it NA, a high compression B20 on stock sleeves, as long as it's built properly, it'll be quick and reliable. And it can be done for a decent amount of cash.

Overall, if you're going to swap in a motor soon, THEN build it internally later, Id just skip a step and get the B20V with bolt ons. Or, if you dont want your car down for a while, do either one, and just build a B20 block in your garage or wherever, so when you have everything ready you can swap it in in like a weekend.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Or you could read the rules sticky.

gsxr1000gs

I had a jdm gsr what a beast of a motor but its block gave out. now i have a ls/v fully built, I love it even dropped the compression and drove it without the turbo for about 3000 miles before putting a turbo on it you cant go wrong with the ls don't know much about the b20 so like someone said before do your research.