B18b getting no spark, ICM is bad but have a question
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B18b getting no spark, ICM is bad but have a question
ok so my del sol with a b18b died today after it was running for a couple minutes and i started my checklist to find out what the problem is. i pulled the plug in the #1 cylinder and had my girl turn the car over and check for spark and there was none. ok so i check the coil it tests out perfect, then i checked the ICM and bingo it was bad.
now my question comes, i was having a problem after i bought a new ls head that had been slightly milled with crower train and shafts. the boot popping off the #1 spot on the dizzy. i went over to my grandmothers house to visit and my uncle came over, he looked at it and i don't know what exactly he did but the tab broke off the boot on the inside of the jacket to plug into the dizzy. i guess he rigged up something to get the plug to stay on but after driving the car for about a total of 30 minutes.
could his rigging something up on the plug wire cause the ICM to go bad due to some kind of short on the plug wire?
now my question comes, i was having a problem after i bought a new ls head that had been slightly milled with crower train and shafts. the boot popping off the #1 spot on the dizzy. i went over to my grandmothers house to visit and my uncle came over, he looked at it and i don't know what exactly he did but the tab broke off the boot on the inside of the jacket to plug into the dizzy. i guess he rigged up something to get the plug to stay on but after driving the car for about a total of 30 minutes.
could his rigging something up on the plug wire cause the ICM to go bad due to some kind of short on the plug wire?
#2
Re: B18b getting no spark, ICM is bad but have a question
Sounds like you first need to replace the plug wires. Did you check spark on all 4 plugs? If not, this should be done.
When a plug wire pops out or becomes disconnected, it's the coil not the ICM that typically blows. How did you test the coil and ICM?
When a plug wire pops out or becomes disconnected, it's the coil not the ICM that typically blows. How did you test the coil and ICM?
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Re: B18b getting no spark, ICM is bad but have a question
http://www.team-integra.net/forum/bl...eshooting.html
this is the way i tested it
this is the way i tested it
#4
Re: B18b getting no spark, ICM is bad but have a question
http://www.team-integra.net/forum/bl...eshooting.html
this is the way i tested it
this is the way i tested it
1) The coil resistance tests should be done at room temperature with the coil disconnected from its wires and removed from the car.
What was the temperature outside when you did the in-car tests and what were your readings?
2) If it failed, the thread's ICM test could not distinguish a bad ICM from a bad wire or bad ECU. You should now do all the ICM input tests (see FAQs sticky). Post the readings for all of these tests.
You should also do the test below:
it is possible that the coil is internally grounded. To test for this, Place one meter probe on one terminal and the other to a chassis ground. Test the second terminal as well. You should NOT get a reading. The meter should stay peaked and say 0L or indicate that the resistance is above its measurement ability.
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Re: B18b getting no spark, ICM is bad but have a question
i got it fixed yesterday afternoon. apparently there was one fuse i didn't check under the dash. it was actually the ACG fuse blown. it even kept my power windows from working, and when i replaced the fuse i started getting power to my ICM again
#7
Re: B18b getting no spark, ICM is bad but have a question
It's good you got it fixed, but disconnecting the plug wires to test for spark can blow the ICM, or a bad coil can blow an ICM. I've read multiple accounts of people disconnecting the plug wires to test for spark, and I can't remember exactly what I did, but I blew mine that way.
Also you can't test an ICM with a multimeter. There's a high speed and a low speed test the machines at Advance Auto Parts (among other places) do. All the test in the Haynes manual does is indicates that it MAY be the ICM and it needs tested, but doesn't guarantee it is that. Mine tested bad, I asked how much the part is and I could only buy a whole rebuilt distributor for like $350, so I said "ouch, I don't have that right now" and walked away.
Also you can't test an ICM with a multimeter. There's a high speed and a low speed test the machines at Advance Auto Parts (among other places) do. All the test in the Haynes manual does is indicates that it MAY be the ICM and it needs tested, but doesn't guarantee it is that. Mine tested bad, I asked how much the part is and I could only buy a whole rebuilt distributor for like $350, so I said "ouch, I don't have that right now" and walked away.
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