Irishweird00

Doing this for a friend, so please be nice

He's going to end up with a 96-98 civic coupe and 7g's to work with.

His heart is set on a b16b swap, I/H/E, + other cosmetic ****( )

He wants to know what times he would be expecting in the quarter mile.

I told him low 14's, but he doesnt believe me... so please tell him the truth... thanks guy.

skribblah

tell him to toss the b16b, its a little 1.6L. tell him to get a GSR ( the .2L helps!) with CTR cams he would be much much much much more happy. also more cost effective.

Irishweird00

Trust me, i tried to tell him, but he wants the motor its his money so i dont give 2 *****, it will still be fun do put that motor in his car...

But i have no experience with this motor, nor hav i ever seen one perform...

gamby

OK--I'll give some actual info as opposed to "tell him to get a B18C". Someone says that every fvcking time a B16B swap is mentioned.

A B16B-powered EJ w/ bolt-ons should be a solid mid-14 second 1/4 mile. Low 14's might be possible w/ a really good driver.

I say go for it. Especially since low-mileage B16B's seem to be getting more abundant than high-mileage B18C's.

HXMan

I'd get a b16b...not a bad engine at all. If he gets tired of not having enough torque, torque is only a b18 block away.

4DeepCivic

You know, a B16b is a de-tuned B18c block. It's a B18C block with a B16 crank. Just tell ur friend to get a B18C5.

trav

I got a b16b. i havent done times yet. but ive got over 160hp to the wheels.
When and if i get to 1/8 or 1/4 mile runs i will post any infos i have.

If your friend is all about speed in the 1/8 or 1/4 you should look into H22 or B18.

Basic numbers from honda on b16b and b18c:

b16b 185 Hp
b18c 200 Hp

If i have these worng someone let me know.

Don't get me wrong. I love my b16b! But i wasnt after totaly Hp or going down the 1/8 or 1/4. I want a fun to drive daily driver that also will do ok in auto-x. I would sugest your friend think about what he wants how much he wants to spend and then make up his mind. it would sux to buy something you dont want long term.

trav

its not a de-tuned motor. its just diferent. its still port and pollished. and its a type-r its just got less torque and ***** power. but on the other hand it revs higher! its a diferent motor for a diferent application.

jeez so many 16b haterz !

piscorpio

I have been thinking about that engine a lot lately myself. Maybe if I come into some money I will buy a nice EK hatch and drop one in, make it a high revving screaming little banshee. Might be fun, keep us updated on your friend's progress.

Irishweird00

what times would he expect with a H22A, he was also looking into that. its cheaper in a sense, since we are doing all the work.. he's exactly like me, and can't decide on what he wants till the very end i know it will be at least a low 14's car, with full interior, street tires... I/H/E, he'd prolly end up boosting it

LostMind

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Irishweird00 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what times would he expect with a H22A, </TD></TR></TABLE>

13ish N/a stock

boost my guess like mid 12s?

Miles85916

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by trav &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Basic numbers from honda on b16b and b18c:

b16b 185 Hp
b18c 200 Hp

</TD></TR></TABLE>

B16b 185hp your right
B18c 170 if not JDM
B18c 180 if JDM, due to different exhaust manifold, and intake manifold and block is different color that creates more torque and more hp and of course we all know its the JDM cam shafts that helps, correct me if i am wrong but i am 95% right.
B18c5 195 USDM
B18c5 200 JDM

hybrider

its the comp...

EM1specR

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Miles85916 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

B16b 185hp your right
B18c 170 if not JDM
B18c 180 if JDM, due to different exhaust manifold, and intake manifold and block is different color that creates more torque and more hp and of course we all know its the JDM cam shafts that helps, correct me if i am wrong but i am 95% right.
B18c5 195 USDM
B18c5 200 JDM </TD></TR></TABLE>

um
b16b - 185
b18c1 - 170
b18c - 180, higher compression
b18c5 - 195
b18c spec R - 205

SiR-DC2

Tell him to buy the 98+ ITR swap, EXCELLENT GEARING, MORE power AND tourqe! Just a better buy for not that much more, all motor, basic bolt on's running high13s ain't bad

4DeepCivic

Look at the specs on a B18C or C5. You will see that it has the same deck height and same bore as the B16B. My B16A2 is shorter than a B18C or a B16B block. B16A and B16B uses the same crank, but diff. rods to keep the 1.6 displacement. B16B rods are closer to a B18a/b.That's why the B16B has almost the same HP, but less torque than a B18C/5 . Itr heads and Ctr heads are identical as you may already know. To make the long story short, B16B is a true hybrid. That's why, it's better to just get a B18C5 pref. with the JDM 98 spec R tranny.

pdiggitydogg

tell him to head over to http://www.hstuners.com and look for iRACEmyCTR Hes got a b16b in a 96 coupe

mugen76

i've got a b16b and it's a pretty fun motor to work with. first of all you have all the ctr internals to start off with and not too many motors can handle ~8000+ redline stock.

add some toda b cams and this thing becomes a monster. i know how it behaves in an EJ6 but i'm not sure about a coupe/sedan.

something else to think about ... the b16b is slightly lighter than the b18's. LOL

Apex i ITR

For the price diff you are really paying for the: "I have a CTR motor" factor. If its for power some places sell both swaps for the same price.

Do the math a ITr will be quicker then a CTR, anything done to a CTR motor can be done to a ITR motor.

Irishweird00

personally, I wouldnt even consider the B16B as a possible swap, because mainly im broke, and it doesnt suit my needs and desires... I just told him to buy and LS, or GSR motor, for boost. If I had the money i would build up a ls motor and be running 11's or 12's on a built bottem end/turbo. but he wants VTEC cus hes a stunna.... and he wont listen to a word i say. So mainly hes choices now are a GSR or a H22a....he doesnt want to spend 5+ g's on a ITR, which i can understand.
I just told him to buy a B18c1, so he could do a direct bolt in, easier wireing, and 150 to the wheels stock... then build on that.

RyanR

Yup, B16B sucks. I have one. It totally blows ***.
Bone stock, intake, AN-R header and exhaust. http://www.ravingpsycho.com/car/eg/dyno.jpg

Soy Bean

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skribblah &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">tell him to toss the b16b, its a little 1.6L. tell him to get a GSR ( the .2L helps!) with CTR cams he would be much much much much more happy. also more cost effective.</TD></TR></TABLE>
buahahah this is from someone who has never even seen a B16B in person before.

skribblah

THATS why you should choose GSR over 16b. if you have gobs of money and no sense then go 16b.

vivid02

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RyanR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yup, B16B sucks. I have one. It totally blows ***.
Bone stock, intake, AN-R header and exhaust. http://www.ravingpsycho.com/car/eg/dyno.jpg </TD></TR></TABLE>

Can I have your motor one day? Pleassseeeee

ill phil

I have a B16b shortblock I'm going to throw on with my B16 head. Should hopefully go down in the next week or two. I'll post back on how it feels and numbers. The dyno numbers on the "Ryans B16b" are very impressive and give me some hope before I stroke the block.