HDsol1996

1996 Del Sol B16A2 (DOHC VTEC) 260k miles and I attempted to replace oil pan gasket with no success. Used after market gasket and RTV between the gasket and pan, which after searching other threads found this is not the best way to do it Going back in for round two and still am not clear as to whether or not to use RTV, Hondbond, or just the gasket? A lot of conflicting info best way to be successful, looking for some suggestions.

jbpnoman

Download the factory service manual, and follow it's procedures. You need to clean off old gasket material, and ONLY use HondaBond in certain spots. Also, if you over- or under-torque the oil pan studs and bolts, you can create a leak on the new gasket.

HDsol1996

Thanks, that'll help!

carlos8

I always use OEM pan gasket sandwiched with RTV on my Hondas with very success.

If your car is daily you can try, The Right Stuff by Mr. Gasket is what Domestic cars use nowadays instead of gasket. We use it at the shop for new
cars and this thing works magic, Till the moment you need to remove the pan it's a PITA.

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

I dont use any on my Bseries. I cant remember the torque setting, but its extremely low. but enough to seal it up and i have no leaks.

Former User

HondaBond is best. There's also a proper order for tightening the nuts and bolts. The tightening is done in several rounds.

Are you sure the leak is coming from the oil pan gasket? The leak could also come from the distributor or VTEC solenoid at the top of the engine, or even the front or rear seals.

dntnedvtec

Oil pan gaskets are torqued to 9ft/lbs in steps. I got hand snug, then 4lbs, (a small torque wrench comes in handy), then 9lbs. Think tightening your lug nuts. Across from each other.

I had an oil leak and I was burning oil on my B16a. After numerous gasket changes, and still oil on the ground, I decided to look higher. It was my Distributor gasket.

For any leaks, start from the top, then work your way down.