SonicC

After 17 years and 185 miles on what appears to be original components, the timing belt in my 2000 Si finally decided to take a break. I bought the car with 180k miles and have been planing on replacing the belt and other components once it cools down a little bit, but now I am forced to replace it sooner and then some. Basically the car died on highway and wouldn't even turn over any more. Knew immediately the belt is toast.

I went ahead and got an endoscope camera to take a look inside each cylinder, and I can see that valves "kissed" at least 2 pistons. So I started taking stuff apart in order to remove the head, been working for about an hour each day. The head is ready to come out so I can inspect the valves over the weekend and order whatever replacement parts are needed.

This is my first time removing the cylinder head on a car. I've been using that free service manual that's been floating around for a while as a reference point. I have a few questions for which I wasn't able to find the answers in the manual:

1. Are cyl. head bolts re-usable? I don't see any mention whether they need to be replaced or not.
2. Torquing steps. There are only 2 used in the manual, first 22ft-lb and then 61ft-lb. This seems to contradict with videos I've seen on YouTube where people go 3 steps with final torque being something like 71.
3. Do the new valves have to be lapped? I can't find any mention of this. It talks about reaming the valves if the guides are replaced, but nothing about lapping.
4. Once everything is assembled and engine is running (hopefully), how long should it run/idle for before taking it for a drive?
5. Is it normal for the UP arrows on the cam gears to not be perfectly pointed up, but the marks match?


Thanks.

mk378

1. Not sure on the B series. D series bolts can be re-used.
2. Most car videos on YouTube should be disregarded. If you use stock bolts, tighten according to the FSM. If you use upgraded aftermarket studs or bolts follow their instructions.
3. With 180,000 miles it would be best to have a machine shop rework all the valves and valve seats and possibly the guides, and of course new seals.
4. No break in is required. Double-checking the valve adjustment after driving a few hundred miles would be a good idea.
5. The "UP" marks are approximate only so you aren't off by 180 degrees. The slash marks are used for actual timing. Note that "up" relative to the engine's block deck is not straight up relative to the ground, since the whole engine is tilted forward when installed in the car.