shaylude

B16a2 Cranks but does not start, have tried almost everything.*

2000 Civic Si

I have searched and read up on the issue for days now, I am becoming more desperate as I need my vehicle so I am forced to make this thread.

The car ran perfect. I pulled the car into the driveway and removed the distributor to take the coil out and try it in my girlfriends car which was having an intermittent misfire problem.
(Should of just drove home and got an extra coil to try instead of removing mine, what a mistake.)

Now the car just cranks and will not start.

The process of elimination I have gone through.

Full Battery at all times through this process.
Brought #1 cyl. to TDC and correctly mounted distributor which slid on with no problem.
Firing Order is Correct
New Plugs
Removed and Cleaned All Grounds - trans. termo. valve cover.
12v to injectors and correct ohm readings
Have sprayed starting fluid into the intake while cranking, no change.
Tried multiple coils which all test out good
Pulled VC, timing is correct
After Cranking the plugs are covered in fuel. Trying dry plugs doesn't change anything.
Spark is white in color and seems to be a tad weak
All fuses are in their holders and are in working order. - checked with test light
Injectors seem to be firing properly as after cranking plugs have fuel on them.
Tried known good main relay, can hear pump prime.
Tried known good ECU
Known good distributor , wires, cap, rotor, igniter, coil all properly connected.
Compression Test resulted in low numbers but even though the motor has seemed to be a tad low on power I've never had a problem with oil loss, and still drove fine. It's the daily.
No CEL

Anything I may have missed?
I personally feel that the problem some how lies within the distributor since that it what I removed in the first place but I tried the known good distributor and all pins in the connector are clean and all level with one another.

Former User

Is the engine just flooded? Have you changed the engine oil?

Post the compression numbers.

Post an interpretable picture of your plug wire firing order on the distributor cap.

Have you checked the mechanical timing?

dueyx99

hmm strange, so i'd say pull the cap off and do a quick test for 12V, turn the key on and check for battery voltage across the two coil terminals, if nothing there check independently for a good positive by using another ground, and a good ground by using the positive terminal on the battery, if nothing at the coil, check again at the connector for power, thick heavy wire should have 12 volts, also, does your CEL come on with the fuel pump? then go back out?

Checkmarks

Shay,

Just what are your "low compression numbers" you mentioned.

Sounds strange to me also. I have been in a car this last week with a similar problem.

Put the motor TDC compression stroke in accord with the timing marks on the camshaft pulley. (first mistake) Plugged in the distributor at #1 and nothing.

With knowing that there was compression (137/130,137,130) there was no obvious cause why it was not starting. Spark check, Fuel check, Compression check it must start. Turns out the previous owner had known about the broken key that holds the camshaft in position on the sprocket. When I checked with the mechanics of the valves visually verifying compression stroke on #1 and TDC the distributor was 180 degrees out.

So I put the distributor in 180 degrees out and the car started right up. Later I learned the key in the cam sprocket was broken.

Hope it helps (not really because you will have larger problems with your daily driver)

shaylude

I would lay this response out better but I am on my phone at the moment.
Thank you everyone for the replies.

Firing order is 100% correct

Mechanical timing is 100% correct
Marks on the cams and crank perfectly matched.

Oil has been changed roughly 2k ago, not sure how an oil change could make the vehicle start any different when the oil is at the correct fill mark on the dipstick.
I'm very interested in more info. On this topic.

Compression was something like 110/120/125/115 very low but I feel like tester is malfunctioning.
This motor has been the best honda motor I have ever had when it comes to not losing a drop of oil. The car has always ran fantastic.

Battery is at a full charge.
Cel does turn on with the fuel pump prime then shuts off. Does not stay on.

I will check voltage at the coil again.
The spark seems to be a bit weak. A white flame with a slight blue to it.

Will look into clearing a flooded engine.

shaylude

The oil seems to smell of fuel so I will change the oil, pull the plugs, add a few drops of oil to each cylinder and then do another compression test.

shaylude

Changed oil, light amount of oil added to top of cylinders.

Compression Test
140/135/135/135
4. 3. 2. 1

Connected everything back up.
Started car with pedal to the floor, car started and ran very sluggishly. It surprised me so I slowly raised my foot from the accelerator the car continued to stumble and died.

Going to now try dry plugs again.

shaylude

Ok, don't ever rule out timing. I thought that I had fully checked my timing but I didn't.

Somehow I pulled into the driveway and the car jumped timing by two teeth?

Retimed the motor, 200psi on all cyl. Fired Right up.

I was driving the car later that night and then car just shut off completely.
Immediately checked the timing, spot on.
Tested the coil and it was no good.
New coil installed and the car fired right up. 210/220 psi with final compression test after driving for a bit.