SPD DMN

Hey All,

Just finished a b16a1 swap into my 96 hatchback, stock block rebuilt, gsr head, itr valvetrain... running my stock d-series half radiator. Motor only has about 200-300 miles on it, already had an oil change, radiator fluid topped up and bled so there shouldn't be air.

Since the first time i started the car up the temperature gauge always stays at about 55%, never higher. When I'm on the freeway with more cooling, it might drop to dead center, but once I'm back to city driving it will stay at 55% again. The reason this concerns me is because I can't pass emissions because of NOx (my HC and CO are fine). I'm assuming the higher temps is causing the NOx but I'm just wondering if anyone else is having the same issues running a stock d-series half rad on a b16 swap? I'm thinking of going full sized fluidyne, anyone see noticable drops in temp?

p.s. - before my swap the temperature gauge would always read about 1/3 always, never lower, never higher no matter what

TIA!

Jimmy

iTrader: (5)

Check the thermostat..

There's tons of people with b-series swaps running 1/2 length radiators.. with 0 problems.. Including myself in the past.. So that shouldnt be the issue

crazyguy

im running d series radiator with my b16a swap . the temp is normal as usual. just need to tighten up the hoese to the radiators.cause d series radiator hoese are smaller. and i think u know that

punk_0333

I had the same problem as you when i first swapped in my b16a. When i would ride on the highway or interstate temps were fine, but as soon as i hit traffic they would slowly climb till i had to shut the car off. I swapped in a dual core and problem solved. Im sure my problem was partly due to the weather in south ga in the summer months.

SPD DMN

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jimmy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Check the thermostat..

There's tons of people with b-series swaps running 1/2 length radiators.. with 0 problems.. Including myself in the past.. So that shouldnt be the issue</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hey Jimmy, the tstat and water pump are fine, so I don't think those would be the issue. This was my brothers old race motor and he rebuilt the motor for me and I asked him if he thought the tstat/water pump would be the issue, he said def not. Any other ideas? Were you running a dual core or a single core 1/2 rad?


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crazyguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im running d series radiator with my b16a swap . the temp is normal as usual. just need to tighten up the hoese to the radiators.cause d series radiator hoese are smaller. and i think u know that </TD></TR></TABLE>

Hey crazyguy, I've also read around that some ppl are running b16 and b18 swaps running stock d-series rads... some claim to have heat issues, some claim to be running just fine so it seems to be a hit or miss from the searches I've done. I know the d-series hoses are slightly smaller than the b-series, but everything is secure and there are no leaks. Where does your temp gauge sit? What's considered "normal" operating temps, I would assume 1/3 on the gauge is considered "normal"?


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by punk_0333 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had the same problem as you when i first swapped in my b16a. When i would ride on the highway or interstate temps were fine, but as soon as i hit traffic they would slowly climb till i had to shut the car off. I swapped in a dual core and problem solved. Im sure my problem was partly due to the weather in south ga in the summer months. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Hey punk_0333, the thing with my motor is the heat doesn't "climb", it seems like the temp just sits at 55%, like it's the normal operating temperatures. It doesn't really fluctuate or move. The only time it slightly drops is when im moving on the freeway so there's more air cooling, so it might drop to about 50% on the gauge, but itll zap right back up to 55%. So I wouldn't really say it climbs up, it just sits there as if thats where it wants to be But even so, 50% on the temp gauge to me still seems a bit off, I always thought normal operating temps should be about 1/3 right?


Any suggestions anyone? Coolant flush again? Different coolant/coolant ratio (running ~ 50/50 right now)? Get a new radiator? Sigh... the saga continues

Thnx you guys for your suggestions!

BryanM.

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crazyguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im running d series radiator with my b16a swap . the temp is normal as usual. just need to tighten up the hoese to the radiators.cause d series radiator hoese are smaller. and i think u know that </TD></TR></TABLE>

x2 Running it like that for 7 years no issues.

boosted92hatch

i run a h22a4 and my temp is always 1/3 like normal with a dual core, however my freind runs a single core half rad with his h22a and his also stays at 1/3 unless he rips on it for lenghty periods. i ran my stock d series rad on my ls/vtec and it was boosted and never ran into cooling problems. i say u have a bad thermo/ or air in the lines or your head gasket is bad. the only time i had heating problems is when my head gasket blew and it would run fine until traffic, oh u know what else it could be, is your fan working, if it dont kick on that will make your car overheat and think about it. when u are moving it stays cool but when u stop and it isnt getting air then it heats up, check the fan

SPD DMN

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted92hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i run a h22a4 and my temp is always 1/3 like normal with a dual core, however my freind runs a single core half rad with his h22a and his also stays at 1/3 unless he rips on it for lenghty periods. i ran my stock d series rad on my ls/vtec and it was boosted and never ran into cooling problems. i say u have a bad thermo/ or air in the lines or your head gasket is bad. the only time i had heating problems is when my head gasket blew and it would run fine until traffic, oh u know what else it could be, is your fan working, if it dont kick on that will make your car overheat and think about it. when u are moving it stays cool but when u stop and it isnt getting air then it heats up, check the fan</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hey boosted92hatch... im beginning to think my problems are elsewhere since so many of you are running single core d-series stock rads and sitting around 1/3 temp, which is what my old motor would be at but now its way higher...

I dont think its the tstat or water pump, but it could be air in the lines. I'm going to give that a shot first. The fan works, and the motor doesn't overheat and the heat doesn't really "climb" when im stopped, its always always sitting at 55% on the temp gauge as if that is the normal operating temps, and it may drop slightly to 1/2 on the gauage when on the freeway at 60mph+.

Would getting wider b-series rad pipes make any difference? Any particular coolant and/or coolant ratio?

.Hatches.

im runnin an h2b setup with a single core half radiator on my eg and never had any overheating problem, so im sure a b16 should be fine.

crazyguy

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SPD DMN &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Hey crazyguy, I've also read around that some ppl are running b16 and b18 swaps running stock d-series rads... some claim to have heat issues, some claim to be running just fine so it seems to be a hit or miss from the searches I've done. I know the d-series hoses are slightly smaller than the b-series, but everything is secure and there are no leaks. Where does your temp gauge sit? What's considered "normal" operating temps, I would assume 1/3 on the gauge is considered " </TD></TR></TABLE>

the radiator that i have for d series is acutally brand new, i bought it for my d16z6 , it has about 2000 miles when i swapped the b16a cause i didnt want get rid of it. and paid $$ for b series radiator, and the temp after swap sits about 1/3 and very stable. and i didnt change anything to my b16a such as thermostat or radiator hoses. the jdm b16a swap i have is in very good condtion. the best b series swap i have ever got. compression test across from 242 to 248 psi

xlasianizelx

i wouldnt recommend it... i used a ek9 radiator

[ivi]

I've ran a few off stock D-Series radiators with no trouble. I'd bleed your system again, or get your ratio's re-tuned.

SPD DMN

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .Hatches. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im runnin an h2b setup with a single core half radiator on my eg and never had any overheating problem, so im sure a b16 should be fine.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Strange, it seems like Im the one of the few that is having heating issues, but I can't pinpoint the issue. Like my brother says, I'm going to have to shotgun this one and fix everything

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crazyguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

the radiator that i have for d series is acutally brand new, i bought it for my d16z6 , it has about 2000 miles when i swapped the b16a cause i didnt want get rid of it. and paid $$ for b series radiator, and the temp after swap sits about 1/3 and very stable. and i didnt change anything to my b16a such as thermostat or radiator hoses. the jdm b16a swap i have is in very good condtion. the best b series swap i have ever got. compression test across from 242 to 248 psi </TD></TR></TABLE>

So it seems that 1/3 is the normal operating temp, which im definitely not hitting. I noticed that if I just warm up the car, and not drive it the temp still sits at 55% on the temp guage, so its not the fact that I hammer on the car when I drive, it seems to just operate at that temp even when I warm it up in my drive way for 10 minutes... sigh...


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xlasianizelx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i wouldnt recommend it... i used a ek9 radiator</TD></TR></TABLE>

My plans is to hit up the track and get my racing license so I figure I might as well get a full radiator, and my bro has hook ups for fluidynes, but I'm still curious why my current setup is still running hotter than normal...


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by [ivi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">]I've ran a few off stock D-Series radiators with no trouble. I'd bleed your system again, or get your ratio's re-tuned.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm going to try bleeding the system again step by step, im hoping the issue is just air in the system but im pretty sure we bled it properly... sigh!


Thanks everyone for the heads up... ill try flushing the fluids and doing it again and see if it does anything...

SirRevvs

What radiator do you think they used in japan with a b16a . I've never had a problem with the d-series rad. though. They are extremely efficient. Check your thermo, fan switch, or you may even have a partially clogged rad. Some gauge cluster's however i've noticed read diff than others.

SPD DMN

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SirRevvs &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What radiator do you think they used in japan with a b16a . I've never had a problem with the d-series rad. though. They are extremely efficient. Check your thermo, fan switch, or you may even have a partially clogged rad. Some gauge cluster's however i've noticed read diff than others. </TD></TR></TABLE>

The jdm b16a used a 1/2 single core rad?

So I did a few checks today, theres def no air in the system, checked the fuse which was fine, jumped the thermo sensor plug and fan kicked on no prob, squeezed upper and lower rad hoses and both had pressure and both were hot, no leaks that I can see, overflow reservoir is about halfway between min/max lines. Possibly a partially clogged rad, can't say but it cooled my old y7 fine, kept it at 1/3 all the time no questions

Question though, I am failing emissions on NOx which is due to high combustion temps... now would/could the combustion temps effect water temps, and if so can it effect it to the point of raising temps to where mine is? Should I even be correlating the two or do they not effect each other really?

Sigh... back to you guys!

SPD DMN

up

VegasHB

High combustions temps I would assume means higher water temps. What compression is it running? Is your IAT sensor plugged in? Maybe running lean if your getting high combustion temps. Maybe too much timing?

SPD DMN

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VegasHB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">High combustions temps I would assume means higher water temps. What compression is it running? Is your IAT sensor plugged in? Maybe running lean if your getting high combustion temps. Maybe too much timing?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hey VegasHB, I'm thinking that high combustion temps would effect water temps, but you think by that much?

Compression is stock, rebuilt b16a1 block with a gsr head

Checked the IAT sensor, its plugged in fine, don't see anything out of place, not throwing CEL now, and never threw a CEL since I dropped the motor in

Running lean is a possibility but I'm not sure how to confirm/check for that. Any ideas? You think it could be anything like fuel pump, fuel lines, injectors...?

Swerv

keeping up foreign relations...

you know, the finger.

sorry for the useless post, already edited cause I forgot the words

94EJ1Coupe

I had the same problem. I think it's your Thermostat. After ichanged it the problem was solved. let you know that i was using my old radiator from my d16z6 sigle cam.

SPD DMN

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Swerv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">keeping up foreign relations...

you know, the finger.

sorry for the useless post, already edited cause I forgot the words </TD></TR></TABLE>

I bet you google'd that too didn't you Swerv......... you stink, thnx for the bump


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94EJ1Coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had the same problem. I think it's your Thermostat. After ichanged it the problem was solved. let you know that i was using my old radiator from my d16z6 sigle cam.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hey 94EJ1Coupe, it seems that the thermostat is working. I warmed up my car for about 20 minutes and the temp gauge went up to the "normal" 55% range. I felt the upper rad hose and it was warm, and the lower rad hose was cold and there was no pressure in the hose. I let it idle for another 5 minutes or so and temp gauge still read 55%, but now the lower rad hose was hot with pressure, and the upper rad hose was hot with pressure so the thermostat must be engaging and opening. After about 2-3 minutes the lower rad hose would cool down again and the pressure would go away, so i figure the thermostat is closed. It would repeat this process for the next 10-15 minutes I let it idle. Fan never turned on during this process, temp gauge was constantly at 55%.

I then rev'd the motor at 2000rpm for about 2-3 minutes and the heat started rising to about 60-65% until FINALLY the fan kicked on for the first time, so now I know theres no prob with the thermosensor and thermoswitch. The fan kicked in for about 10 seconds, clicked off, temps returned back to 55% in a matter of like 45-50 seconds.

You think its still the thermostat? Is it possibly "sticky"? The coolant system seems to be operating as it should be, just at a higher temperature level...