4LugR

ok, just got finished swapping a b16a into an already b16 del sol.. the car runs, replaced timing belt and tensioner, and re-timed the motor, .. now the problems are as follows..

1. idle was jumping and it was throwing an IACV code... replaced iacv, now the cel is off, but the idle jumps really slightly. not too bad at all, not a big concern..

2. when you push the gas, the engine bogs really bad. almost dies... idle drops to about 500, and thats if you just stab the throttle, like instantly hit WOT... it sputters and almost dies..replaced the TB, and it helped a bit, it worked for about 5 min, then went back to the sputtering .. if you very gently push the throttle, the revs rise slowly, and then returns to almost normal at about 3.5-4k..

3. if you get the car going, in first gear, and floor it at about 4k, the revs continue to rise, but slowly, and when vtec engages, its all the sound, but im still going like 10 miles an hour..

4. the clutch line that leads to the slave, has a small leak, itll hold pressure for about 10 min. and then hit the floor..

ok, with that being said, sound like a TPS? or something that has to do with the leak in the clutch line... im running out of options, and getting short on patience... help me out guys..

wob

id recheck that timing again maybe off a tooth

TheCheeseWedge

iTrader: (1)

whats your voltage on the tps? on the variable wire at wot and closed throttle with the engine off but key on the on position?

4LugR

didnt check that... left multimeter at home... but the funny thing, iono if it was coincidental or not, but when the idle was jumping, i unplugged the TPS, and the idle stopped jumping....

TheCheeseWedge

iTrader: (1)

should be read .5 volts at wot 0 at closed throttle

onefastx

had the same problem when i did my zc swap check all your vacuum lines

Superdragr45

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheCheeseWedge &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">should be read .5 volts at wot 0 at closed throttle</TD></TR></TABLE>

good info from this man today.........................mentioned also to check out if the injectors were right cuz if they are OBD0, they need a resistor box..............

sir2sol

this might be a long shot, but try checking your ignitor inside your distributor. sometimes when they start to go bad, it causes problems like your describing.

Superdragr45

update on our project....................

we changed out the TB and fixed the clutch lines..................it still idles the same but now we got a CEL for the TPS...............anyone got anymore clues to wat could be the issues???

4LugR

^^^^ yeah, we changed the TB, and before, it threw just a iacv code... and now it throws the iacv, map, and tps.. WTF??? lol

TheCheeseWedge

iTrader: (1)

I have a few questions, so that i can get an idea of what's going on:

1.How are the codes being read? Did you jumper to get it to blink the check engine light or did you have a scantool?

2.What are the exact code numbers that you are throwing?

3.Have you measured anything with your multimeter, if so what did you measure and how?

4.What ecu are you running, and what is the full serial code?

Thanks,
Jason

eg2sol

Make sure you dont have the tps and iacv plugs backwards.

CRXified

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eg2sol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Make sure you dont have the tps and iacv plugs backwards. </TD></TR></TABLE>

whats what i was going to suggest, beat me to it

onefastx

check your vacuum lines

gunnis

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheCheeseWedge &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">should be read .5 volts at wot 0 at closed throttle</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Superdragr45 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
good info from this man today.........................mentioned also to check out if the injectors were right cuz if they are OBD0, they need a resistor box..............</TD></TR></TABLE>

Correction for tps voltage...

closed or at idle- 0.5V
Wide open throttle- 4.5V

gunnis

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wob &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd recheck that timing again, maybe off a tooth</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheCheeseWedge &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">whats your voltage on the tps? at wot and closed throttle with the engine off but key on the on position? </TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eg2sol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Make sure you dont have the tps and iacv plugs backwards.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Are you resetting the ecu after you "fix" the sensor issues?
Good luck.

jdmturbosol

DEFINATELY SOUNDS LIKE TIMING IS OFF(CAM TIMING NOT IGNITION)

4LugR

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheCheeseWedge &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a few questions, so that i can get an idea of what's going on:

1.How are the codes being read? Did you jumper to get it to blink the check engine light or did you have a scantool?

2.What are the exact code numbers that you are throwing?

3.Have you measured anything with your multimeter, if so what did you measure and how?

4.What ecu are you running, and what is the full serial code?

Thanks,
Jason</TD></TR></TABLE>
ok, we jumped it to get the codes...

throwing 3 for map, 7 for tps, and 14 for iacv..

going to use the multimeter here ina little while

ecu is stock p30.. ill get teh code in a lil bit..

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eg2sol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Make sure you dont have the tps and iacv plugs backwards. </TD></TR></TABLE>

checked that alot.. they are right, b/c the tps plug won/t reach the iacv plug..<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gunnis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">




Are you resetting the ecu after you "fix" the sensor issues?
Good luck.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yep
oh, and weve checked timing like 234555234 times.. its ok. we think the bogging thing could have been caused by using some injectors we thought were obd I, but i think that they could have been obd0.. so we will test that some more today

TheCheeseWedge

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gunnis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


Correction for tps voltage...

closed or at idle- 0.5V
Wide open throttle- 4.5V
</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks for catching that, my bad he's right. and i agree be sure to reset the ecu each time you "fix" a sensor.
the map sensor code you are throwing is electrical not mechanical. so cleaning the map sensor of anything clogged shouldnt have taken off that code.
do you have a manual? because i dont think your gonna get through this with ease if you dont. now that you have codes showing you can narrow down the problems and just focus on each sensor and removing that code at a time

testing the iacv-reset your ecu, start the car, does the check engine light come one still? if yes then disconnect the sensor plug and measure the voltage between the yel/Blk wire and the body ground. Is there any voltage? if not then repair the yel/blk wire from iacv and the main relay. if yes then turn the ignition switch off and reconnect the plug to the iacv. turn the key to the on posisiton on the ecu plug "A" disconnect it from the ecu and momentarily tap A9+ and A23- using 2 wires. does the iacv click? if yes your ecu could be bad. if no check for an open or short in Blu/Yel (Grn/Wht) wire between the iacv and ecu (A9). if the wire is ok its your iacv

4LugR

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheCheeseWedge &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

thanks for catching that, my bad he's right. and i agree be sure to reset the ecu each time you "fix" a sensor.
the map sensor code you are throwing is electrical not mechanical. so cleaning the map sensor of anything clogged shouldnt have taken off that code.
do you have a manual? because i dont think your gonna get through this with ease if you dont. now that you have codes showing you can narrow down the problems and just focus on each sensor and removing that code at a time

testing the iacv-reset your ecu, start the car, does the check engine light come one still? if yes then disconnect the sensor plug and measure the voltage between the yel/Blk wire and the body ground. Is there any voltage? if not then repair the yel/blk wire from iacv and the main relay. if yes then turn the ignition switch off and reconnect the plug to the iacv. turn the key to the on posisiton on the ecu plug "A" disconnect it from the ecu and momentarily tap A9+ and A23- using 2 wires. does the iacv click? if yes your ecu could be bad. if no check for an open or short in Blu/Yel (Grn/Wht) wire between the iacv and ecu (A9). if the wire is ok its your iacv</TD></TR></TABLE>

damn cheese.. good stuff. you should come over and help.. lol.

TheCheeseWedge

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AEMPrelude916 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

damn cheese.. good stuff. you should come over and help.. lol. </TD></TR></TABLE>
whatever i aint got **** to do lol my numbers 223-7198 let me know when your available

4LugR

damn then. im callin you right now ..lol

Tiffany_94DOHC

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AEMPrelude916 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">damn then. im callin you right now ..lol </TD></TR></TABLE>
awww.. my cars problems are bringing people together!! bwahahaha jp jp!

TheCheeseWedge

iTrader: (1)

Jojo made a very good point tonight by covering the throttlebody. That confirmed my theory that there is a vacume leak in the intake manifold. so i think we should change the manifold tomarrow. a vacume leak would make since because it would in the process **** off the tps, iacv, and map sensors throwing codes intermittantly. this better be it damn it! lol ill talk to you guys tomarrow
Jason

TheCheeseWedge

iTrader: (1)

also another thing that still needs to be checked is the fitv. looky what i found about the fitv https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1003988

not to be a dick but is this the same firing order that you have marked? this is what i was the order i was trying to explain earlier https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1210272


Modified by TheCheeseWedge at 3:21 AM 2/1/2006