EGinNY

Like title says i got a B16a and out of nowhere there is a rattling noise coming
from (i pretty sure) the head. Alomost sounds like a coin in a dryer
It gets quieter when i accelereate but comes back when im at a steady speed.
Also have a severe loss a power and slight hesitation....
What the **** happened??????

I was drivin slow and shiftin at like 3k for the last hour n BOOM.......?????????

Any (usefull) input is appreciated


i guess my car didnt not want me to sell her
NOT FOR SALE (see sig.)

Kamin

im willing to bet its probably a rod bearing, sorry man engine is done for.

take the valve cover off and inspect all the rockers and cams anyway, you never know.

EGinNY

If its a rod bearing would i have to replace the head or block to fix it?
or can i replace parts internaly? (i work at acura so get parts Cheap)

Edit: ****, this sucks!!!!!!!

Kamin

you work at acura but dont know where a rod bearing is?

the rod bearing is what is between the rod and the piston. its in the "block" if you would call it that. i would highly reccomend doing all main and rod bearings, not to mention have the engine gone over by a machine shop to make sure there was no damage.

EGinNY

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kamin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you work at acura but dont know where a rod bearing is?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Never said i was an Acura tech....&lt;&lt;shrugs&gt;&gt; I just work there

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kamin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

the rod bearing is what is between the rod and the piston. its in the "block" if you would call it that. i would highly reccomend doing all main and rod bearings, not to mention have the engine gone over by a machine shop to make sure there was no damage. </TD></TR></TABLE>


Thanks for the input.....Im gonna pull the valve cover off n hope its something in the head cause i have another b16 head

milton

take the valve cover off and inspect

DelSolSi93

LOL reminds me of this time I re-sealed the valve cover on my beater jeep and one of the cover bolts broke off into the rocker cover and I ran it and it sounded like that, funny thing was I just took the cover back off and took the bolt out after like 50 miles of driving it and it was fine, sorry that was of no real input to your problem but i just thought it was a funny story, like other people said open up the valve cover and see what you find and then go from there

sleepycivichb

it could aslo be your water pump let go, and your timeing belt loosended up. happened to me, also could be a dizzy bering. could be anything. because just from driving at 3k shouldn't spin a rod bering unless there's no oil in the motor or unless it has 300,000 miles on the motor. -Jason

EGinNY

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sleepycivichb &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it could aslo be your water pump let go, and your timeing belt loosended up. happened to me</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well like everyone said i removed the valve cover to inspect.....Realized theres nothing to really inspect...Everything looked good ...extremely clean in there
Only thing i noticed was the timing belt WAS pretty loose...

sleepycivichb

Yup, that happened on my b16a1, sounds like a rubber on rubber grinding noise, what's rubbing is the timeing belt is slapping the rubber cover on the pully side of the block. what it is when your water pump goes bad. the pully gets loose and the timeing belt slips off the pully thus for jumping timeing, makeing it rediculously slower. and definaltey unsafe to drive. -Jason

lohatch

take a timing light and check your timing. if it is significantly off then shut off the motor. use a socket on the crank pulley to turn the motor to TDC using the marks on the crank pulley. look at your cam gears. they should both be at TDC as well. if they are not then you need to loosen your timing belt tensioner bolt and set the cam gears back to TDC and then tighten the belt. if you have adjustable cam gears one of them could have slipped and the cam timing of that cam is off, but this wouldnt make your belt loose. also the rod bearing is in between the rod and the crank. not the rod and the piston. you would think a guy with nearly 7000 posts would know this.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kamin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

the rod bearing is what is between the rod and the piston. its in the "block" if you would call it that. i would highly reccomend doing all main and rod bearings, not to mention have the engine gone over by a machine shop to make sure there was no damage. </TD></TR></TABLE>

EGinNY

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sleepycivichb &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yup, that happened on my b16a1, sounds like a rubber on rubber grinding noise, what's rubbing is the timeing belt is slapping the rubber cover on the pully side of the block. what it is when your water pump goes bad. the pully gets loose and the timeing belt slips off the pully thus for jumping timeing, makeing it rediculously slower. and definaltey unsafe to drive. -Jason</TD></TR></TABLE>

The noise im hearing is definetly NOT rubber....Sounds like theres a bolt playing pin ball IN the motor....getting worse...motors shaking, and theres now an oil spot under where my car was...never leaked/burned any oil at all

I took the spark plugs out n dropped a long screwdriver into the holes, then turned the crank pulley and the screwdriver went up and down on all cylinders
Im going to pull off the head tommorow and see what i can see



Modified by EGinNY at 8:57 PM 11/6/2004

lohatch

like i said. take a socket and turn the motor to TDC. then see if the tbelt skipped a tooth or two. it could have jumped a couple teeth and caused the valve to make contact with the piston, causing a bent valve. also maybe pull your vavle cover and inspect things in there. also drain the oil and pull the pan and see if you have anything abnormal in the pan. doing this might be able to get you started on diagnosing the problem and maybe you can save yourself the hassle of pulling the head(which then you would then have to buy a new gasket, etc).

EGinNY

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lohatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">like i said. take a socket and turn the motor to TDC. then see if the tbelt skipped a tooth or two. it could have jumped a couple teeth and caused the valve to make contact with the piston, causing a bent valve. also maybe pull your vavle cover and inspect things in there. also drain the oil and pull the pan and see if you have anything abnormal in the pan. doing this might be able to get you started on diagnosing the problem and maybe you can save yourself the hassle of pulling the head(which then you would then have to buy a new gasket, etc). </TD></TR></TABLE>

Can i check for a bent valve through the top, cause i already pulled the valve cover and it looked perfect and VERY clean.
im gonna have to pull the cams i guess

EGinNY

UPDATE: I removed the plastic cam gear cover and found its the water pump
pulley/bearing. The pullley is what was making the metal clicking noise (as stated above). The belt had came loose and slipped a bunch of teeth throwing off my timing (i can pull the belt on and off )

How would i know if a piston hit and bent a valve??
Can i determine this before fixin the water pump and belt and testing it?

anyone??

civicgsr19

Not really, you'd need to do a compression/leakdown test.

lohatch

thats why i wanted you to turn your motor to TDC and see how many teeth it was off before you tore it apart. if it would have been like 2 teeth you would probably be alright but if it was way off then it could have been more likely that it was a valve problem. but since you have seemed to find the cause of the problem you will have to start there. either way you need to replace the pump and reinstall a tbelt before you can do a compression/leakdown test. then go from there.

EGinNY

Thanks for the input , im gonna be doin it this week and will keep ya updated

civicgsr19

kamin kamin kamin, so quick to jump to conclusions.....

sleepycivichb

I'm glad my bad expierience could be of some help to ya! good luck! and mine also leaked a little oil and coolant when it went bad. but not much. -Jason

EGinNY

Well My bad experience has become a true nightmare....
I ordered the parts i needed today from honda (timing belt/tensioner/water pump)
I borowed the tool needed to remove the crank pulley from a tech at work.
I get home and wile tryin to break the crank pulley bolt loose i somehow manage to break my motor mount off from the block
Now i need to add a block to the list of parts needed
Looks like ill be doin a motor build up in the NEAR future

lohatch

holy ****. sorry to hear that. that sucks about the block deal.

Chicano

My motor did the exact same thing...b16a2...the timing belt broke off and it started making a weird noise like something was rattling in the block or header...I replaced the belt and everything seems fine though it is still making a rattling noise...

EGinNY

The rattling noise is most likely the water pump bearing/pulley...Thas prob. what caused the timing belt to snap....My belt was worn on the edge's to the metal (sorda like a bald tire)