Rust

Hello, I've been reading on the forum for a while and finally I had a question that I was hoping you could help me with. I have a b16a2 swap in my garage (still looking for a car to put it in ) and I am curious about the GSR bottom half swap thing I read about in another post about how to make a b16 torquier. First off, how much is a GSR bottom end and for that matter what does "bottom end" mean? Like what are all the componants of a "bottom end" (plz no etc.. i really wanna learn these basics). Secondly, how much could I sell my b16 bottom end for? Thirdly, what kinda gains would I see by doing this and what else is involved in the swap? I plan on going forced induction down the line and I know that if I add more displacement I will see better gains. Thanks a lot for the help.

dfoxengr

GSR bottom 800-900 bux...(A: go lsvtec instead...)

bottom end= shortblock=block, crank, pistons, rods, oil pan, oil pump, water pump, widage tray, oil pickup, thats about it for main parts...then u have bearings ETS..lol.

u would see about the same as a type r motor almost..alittle les(this is called a poor mans type r)

pretty straight forward swap, everything works

sell the b16 bottom for about 300-400 depending on buyer and year..etc mileage...

FI is cool, but the LSvtec is always better, IMO, lol it

pennies_hatchie

iTrader: (1)

what he said, basically you'll be doing a POOR MAN'S TYPE R if you have a gsr block and b16 head. you just have to fill it with type r stuff or go with toda/skunk2/jun head work...
good luck

Rust

So I have to do the headwork or the rest of the "type R" stuff or would that just be extra? I am planning on buying a turbo in the future so I thought I didnt need to do much to the head. Where can I find some prices on GSR shortblocks? If its really as cheap as you say, why dont more people do it? If I sold my b16a block after the swap then it would only cost me $700 dollars or so right? To gain 20 or so horse power for $700 is a pretty good deal.


[Modified by Rust, 1:13 AM 2/27/2003]

dfoxengr

look in our classifieds...

and u dont HAVE to do headwork but its beter obviously

Rust

Sorry it took me a while to edit that.. could you see the above post.

dfoxengr

no then u have to build it, nothing with cars is "cheap" lol

Rust

What would be involved in building it (do you mean to physically do the swap)? What parts do I have to replace in order for it to work? And since I am going FI, I dont want high compression right? Sorry for all the questions, I am learning a lot.


[Modified by Rust, 1:29 AM 2/27/2003]

dfoxengr

itll work anyways, by build i meant use beter aftermarket stuff, like forged pistons 9.0-9.5:1 compression for FI...and new rods...then head parts...if you want, u dont have to though

Rust

Ok first off, this is my 5th post, so I am gonna have to keep editting this so I can respond to your replies. (Sorry if im cheating the system but I dont get access to the computer very much)

********************** new edit

Thanks for all ur help. Just one more quick question before I leave you guys alone.. Will I have to buy a new intake mani and a new header for a GSR or anything else outside of the shortblock to make this work? Also, will this setup be reliable or will I run into some problems even if I do it right? Which tranny is better for turbo, b16a or b18c1?


[Modified by Rust, 2:50 AM 2/27/2003]


[Modified by Rust, 2:53 AM 2/27/2003]

dfoxengr

if u want turbo soon, use the b16 dont mess with it but itll help ur numbers....i know a guy that hit 403 WHP with just a b16 t3/t4 turbo, not even the greatest kit...and no sprays...keep editing ill read them...but if you really want a bigger motor get an LS bottom end...and do lsvtec...may end up bein a little mopre than the gsr total with the things you need, but its better IMO..

13HYBRID20

that combo will drop your compression ratio .2 but if your gonna boost it I say go for it, Oh by the way a short block is just a motor with no head on it.

Nine

Keep your b16 tranny, its got nice short gearing. Since you are swapping in OEM honda parts I see no reason for it to be unreliable if it is done correctly. You might need to have some kind of engine management, but im not sure about that.

Im also not sure about ur int/exh mani questions.. Im sure someone else will chime in.

94si94cx

I was also kind of wondering about this same swap. But my plans had Darton sleeves in them bored over to 84mm. With this changeover you get to keep your VTEC oilsquirters (unlike the b18b) and you don't have to run/tap/ whatever the oil supply for the VTEC. If you can find a good deal on the b18c block it's well worth it.

lazy bum shaughn

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=415023

Downey

you should go NA, resleeve and bore it to 84mm (2.0) and put some nice high compression (11.5:1) pistons in it.. and u will have a nice package. then do some cams


[Modified by Downey, 7:21 PM 2/26/2003]

Nine

Since you have the b16a shortblock at your disposal, just swap in the b16's pistons, that should raise the CR back up to a good level.