v-tec maz

hey guys i wanna know which engine best fits 92-95 civic. and i also wanna know the best source for the engines(web sites). i need some website that i can trust cause i am a kidand i dont have money to buy a fucked up engine and fix it up. i wanna engine that works good.(thanks)

nimblecivic

b16a and b are essentially the same motor fitment wise.....you're going to buy the same mount kit to put in either one. the b16b is the ctr motor so it will have a few more hp if I'm thinking right....anyone back me up on this?

as for reputable websites, do a search.....there's a wealth of info on here about that topic alone but a good starter would be hmotorsonline.com.....

Grip

jhpusa.com (they sell quality motors and have cheap b16a sirII's in stock)

the b16a sirII is the motor that comes out of a 92-95 civic in japan..so all you woual have to do is take out the old parts and put in the new parts...use your stock wiring harness and just add vtec and a knock sensor, buy some new axels from napa for a del sol dohc vtec 1.6 $60 bucks for one side $53 for the other side,buy some 5w30 non synthetic oil,and a oil filter,change the timing belt and waterpump,add coolant and enjoy (might want a thermostat and a dual core radiator from a 95 civic si(100 bucks at napa) ..also check all vacumn,coolant hoses they might need to be replaced also if cracked or split good luck

Grip

ohh yea i forgot:

b16b came out of an ek in japan and it will require a hasport mount kit($450) to install that motor in your car..ohh wait theres more obd2-obd1 harness ($120) on top of the $3500+$300 for shipping for the complete b16b swap into a 92-95 civic just to gain a little more hp (im sure i left somthing out)

..or $2000+$300 shipping and another $120 for axels and maybe $150 for misc. routine maintence parts from napa..and spend the other saved money from buying a b16a instead of a b16b and buy a header,intake,exhaust,coilovers,etc..etc..

for a kid the ideal swap in a 92-95 civic because it is an easy bolt in install and it would give you great experience in a little of all fields of your car..wiring,suspension, and everything else a swap requires...im basing my opinion/answer on the way you aksed the question..it seems like you dont have alot of experience and or money and want somthing reliable you can trust

B18C5-EH2

Dude you're making this WAY too difficult by posting up wrong info:

WRONG.

The B16B can and will bolt into the 92-95 chassis with all OE Honda/Acura mounts if you know which ones you need.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">to install that motor in your car..ohh wait theres more obd2-obd1 harness ($120) on top of the $3500+$300 for shipping for the complete b16b swap into a 92-95 civic just to gain a little more hp (im sure i left somthing out)</TD></TR></TABLE>

WRONG again bro.

You could use a jumper harness, but why? All he needs is a stock 92-95 P28 from an Si/EX model rechipped by Kenji Plennert at kenji211@tampabay.rr.com and it will not only convert it to OBD1 without any problems, but it will also make it run better.

So do you have any questions?

I'll break it down for you vtec maz:

B16A is a 1.6L with 170hp. It's a good engine for the price.

B16B is a destroked Integra Type R engine that puts out 185hp and the same torque as the B16A, and it is the most rev happy Honda B series engine hands down. It was designed for the rigors of road racing, which keep the engine near redline for long periods of time.

My honest opinion is that the B16B is overpriced for what you get. If you want something cheaper and something that will be faster out of the box on the street without having to do major mods, then I suggest getting a B18C1 GS-R or JDM B18C SiR-G (same as our GS-R) swap. It is 1.8L and has 180hp and tons more torque than the peaky B16B.

The B16B is a great platform to build on if you don't mind tearing it down and stuffing an ITR 1.8L crank and rods in it, but you already said you're a "kid" so buy the simpler, faster stock swap and go 1.8L.

As far as mounts, wiring, etc. - I've covered all of this numerous times and it gets annoying, but I'll see what I can round up. Anything I post here will be quoted from another topic, so it might not be the exact same trim level, etc. but the same methods apply pretty much.

First of all mounts - this applies for both B16A and B16B.

For the timing cover side mount you will need to get the cast-iron bracket from any 1994-2001 Integra GS-R and also the aluminum mount as well. You can use the mount from a Del Sol VTEC as well. If the JDM B16A engine comes with this mount then you can use it too. You cannot use the B16B timing side mount at all!

For the rear mount you will need to use a 1994-2001 Integra rear bracket. Most JDM engines come with cut brackets. The actual rubber mount that bolts to the rear subframe can be the stock 92-95 Civic one.

The topside tranny mount can be the 92-95 Civic one - it is the same thing.

The front mounting brackets need to be from an Integra 1994-2001, but if you want to keep A/C then get the A/C bracket for a Del Sol VTEC model. The actual mounts that bolt to the underside of the framerails need to be the stock Civic ones.

I would also insert the energy Suspension mount inserts while you've got the mounts out.

JDM B16A wiring:

As far as wiring goes, you will need to keep the stock 92-95 Civic engine harness and out it on the JDM engine. The JDM engines almost always come with cut harnesses, and even if it's not cut it's routed to the wrong side of the car because JDM cars have the ECU on what is our driver's side since they have RHD cars.

Your engine harness should plug into the JDM engine everywhere. Depending on what trim level your car is, you might have to wire a few things up. Also you should run the re-chipped P28 ECU regardless of what engine you get. It doesn't require a knock sensor, so you don't have to wire one up.

B16B wiring - this is fun:

There are two ways that you can make the B16B swap very easy. One way makes it nearly plug and play, while the other requires a bit more work, but you could save some money in the process and it's still not hard at all.

Method number one:

Find any 1996-2001 Integra engine harness. Ideally it should be a GS-R or Type R unit, but if all you can find is an LS then it's only a few extra wires. I'd imagine they should not be too hard to come by and will cost probably no more than $100.00-$150.00 used and they are only $350.00 or so brand new from Honda if you need a reference point.


If you can locate the 96-01 engine harness then simply plug it into the engine and drop the engine in. Even though the harness is technically "OBD2" trust me it is a direct plug in for the 1992-1995 Civic on the underhood strut tower harnesses.

What ever you decide you should ditch the B16B. It is OBD2 and horrible. What you'll need to run is a re-chipped P28 (1992-1995 SOHC VTEC ECU) from Kenji Plennert in Florida. His e-mail adress is kenji211@tampabay.rr.com - tell him Tom sent you from H-T. I run his ECU on my Type R swap and it is way better than any stock OBD2 crap ECU. Even if you wanted to keep the B16B ECU you'd need to buy a jumper harness and wire up all of that extra OBD2 bullshit, which is not necessary.

If you run that re-chipped P28 and the 96-01 Integra harness then the swap is almost 100% plug and play. Hell in your Civic Civic it will be nearly 100% plug and play if you find a GS-R or Type R harness. You will need to run a few wires for VTEC. My 1992 CX didn't require one single wire at all with my 1998 B18C5 swap because I used a re-chipped P28 and the Integra engine harness. Again your Civic only needs a few wires.

Actually I just recalled that you will have to do a minor wiring modification for the IAT sensor. Simply extend the two wires for the intake air temperature sensor. For some reason the B16B locates its IAT sensor into the actual intake tubing rather than the intake manifold itself. for this reason you must simply extend the existing two wires for that sensor on the engine harness to stretch from the intake manifold (where it is on the Integra) to whatever intake arm you decide to run.

Method Number Two:

If you are just way too broke to buy a used 96-01 Integra engine harness, you can use your stock Civic harness. It will require more work, but if you don't mind that then you could save some money. I'll go ahead and tell you that if I were you I'd really try to find that Integra engine harness, but here goes anyways.

To use your stock Civic harness you will need to do some minor wiring changes and a few other things. It's not hard and if you just breathe deeply and read this I think you'll find it to be prety easy actually. I used this method back in 1999 when I put a B16A2 into my fiancee's car, and I did not know that the 96-01 Integra harness would make it near plug and play.

Change #1:

First of all there will be a minor difference in the plug style on the distributor. Some people will say :"get an OBD1 distributor" but they must think that OBD1 distributors are cheap or easy to find used. The B16B distributor will have one big plug on it, while your stock Civic and it's engine harness has two plugs. All you have to do is unpin the two lowest fat wires from the B16B distributor and repin them into the extra plug on the 92-95 Civic engine harness.

Here's a picture of the B16B distributor. The arrows are pointing to the wires you need to unpin. This is a picture of an unaltered B16B distributor:



So here's that extra plug on your Civic harness with the two wires already ran into it. Notice the wires are the exact same color, making it "idiot proof" so to speak. i'm glad they decided to keep the same colors:



Okay that takes care of that.

Change #2:

The plug on the B16B alternator won't plug into your Civic harness. There are two ways around this. You could either find an OBD1 B Series distributor, or you can swap the voltage regulator from your Civic alternator into the B16B housing. The B16B will have a square plug while the Civic harness will have a round plug. Simply pull both alternators apart and swap the voltage regulator. You'll know which part it is because the plug is part of it. A few 8mm and 10mm bolts are all that stand in your way.

Change #3:

Injectors.

The B16B uses OBD2 style injector plugs that will not plug into your 92-95 Civic harness. You can either buy new OBD1 injecotrs for a 1994-1995 Del Sol VTEC or just use your stock 92-95 Civic injectors. I still run the 1992 Civic Si injectors in my fiancee's B16A2 and it dynoed the same or better as any other B16A2 with i/h/e in my area with 143whp with 102 ft-lbs. of torque.

BTW:

The absolutely best engine supplier hands down is Import Auto Salvage - period.

If you want the most complete swap shipped to your door, then call them at 1-800-962-8922.

I do not work for them, but I have personally bought two swaps from them and my shop has gotten numerous swaps from them as well. Plenty of my best friends have gotten 2 and even 3 swaps from them too.

Every single one was complete as in:

Engine
Tranny
All mounts
ECU
Engine harness
All accessories - distributor, alternator, starter, etc.
Shift linkage with pins
Axles
*All hoses uncut and capped off!
*Exhaust manifold with catalytic convertor and o2 sensors if applicable!
*Box of a bunch of extra suspension and engine mount bolts

The * denotes items that you will not get with any other company that I'm aware of. All sensors are guaranteed not to be broken too, which is important.

So now I need more info from you.

What year is your car?

What trim level? CX, DX, VX, LX, EX, Si?

Help me help you.

Rocks

My honest opinion is the B16B is a bit overpriced it does have a lsd tranny and it has a higher rev potential . In my case Id get a b18c but thats me. I have a b16 and it dosent fufill my needs because it has no torque . get a b18c1, or a c5. Just make a wise decision.

B18C5-EH2

Yeah you can also get the aforementioned JDM B18C 180hp version) with an LSD tranny also.

Oh here's something I posted a long time ago about doing the swap:

Okay, I’m sure this has been covered before, but I would like to have a fresh topic for this. In a recent IM with a friend here who bought a GS-R swap for his 1992 hatchback, we talked about him doing his own swap. Like him I’m sure that most of us were intimidated by our first swap, but I hope this thread can help cure any anxieties that people might have about doing their own swap.

I’ll try my best, but I could forget a thing or two here, so don’t take this as a end-all swap guide.

Here’s how I see it:

You’re going to pay a shop to do the swap. This could be anywhere from $500-$1,200 in labor. I work at a shop and there are some people that NEED to pay us to do the work, but if you have confidence and some common sense I promise you can do it.

Rather than pay for labor, you could use some of that cash to but a really nice toolset and a nice hydro jack too. Rent an engine hoist and possibly airtools and compressor and you're done a LOT cheaper than paying a shop - you KEEP the handtools and jack too!

I recommend any toolset like Craftsmen or Husky, whatever. Get the really nice “Mechanics’ Toolset” even if it costs a few hundred dollars. Remember, you KEEP these tools forever and they will help you countless times. I got a 250 pc. Craftsman set with a toolbox for lie $250.00 I think. Also remember METRIC.

Get a hydro jack too - $100 sounds about right?

There are other tools that you will need too in order to swap successfully. I’ll TRY my best to list them - I’m sure you guys can add some more.

32mm socket for axle nuts
Prybar for axles and various deeds
Punchset for getting that damned shift linkage pin out
Nice sturdy hammer (obvious reasons, right?)
Dykes (don’t laugh - the wire-cutter things guys)
Cotter Pins (not a tool really)
Soldering iron for securing wiring

And fluids too:

However much motor oil your motor takes (usually 4.25, right?)
Tranny fluid of your choice (I prefer Honda MTF 3 qts. - really takes about 2.5)
Coolant
P/S fluid if applicable

So the labor part - not really in too much particular order for the first group of steps:

1. Drain coolant and tranny fluid You can pull the radiator out too to have more room

Disconnect all that would keep the engine from coming out:

2. All plugs on the engine harness that plug into the chassis harness
3. All hoses that connect as well. Upper and Lower radiator hoses, fuel lines, etc.
4. Header from exhaust
5. Shift linkage
A. To get that damned linkage pin, try this:
B. Pull the boot back from the shifter where it connects to the tranny. The boost exposes a clip that can be removed with a flathead screwdriver or your fingers. Then you’ll see the infamous linkage pin exposed. This is where you’ll need the right sized punch to get it out. It has to be small enough to slide in the shift rod, but big enough to push the pin out.
C. If you got pics of this bastard boot, please post them up!

6. Pull the axles out - how you ask? I’ll post the detailed instructions as soon as I find my old post about that here.
A. Here's how to pull the axles:
Tools you'll need if doing a Civic or Integra:
19mm for the wheel
32mm big-*** socket and BIG rachet for it - to break off and tighten back up the axle nut
17mm wrench
17mm wrench again or rachet
Dykes
Hammer
Prybar
TRY to get the entire front of the vehicle off the ground so you can turn the wheels to make things easier.

1. Take the wheel off with the 19mm
2. Take the 32mm nut off the end of the axle
3. Take the dykes and pull the cotter pin out of the bottom 17mm castle nut on the lower balljoint
4. Take the 17mm and remove the castlenut from the lower balljoint
5. Take your big-*** hammer and whack right ON the lower control arm where the balljoint sits - this method for buting the balljoint out will not tear the balljoint boot like the "balljoint wedge" will
6. Take both 17mm and remove the thru-bolt that runs through the lower fork of the front stut - this will allow the axle to slide out when ready by pulling the strut fork to the side of the lower control arm
7. Pull the brake rotor out of the way - axle is ready to come out
8. Take the prybar and pry the axle by prying between the inner joint and the tranny housing

**CAUTION**

If it's a manual tranny you NEED to drain it if you're doing the PASSENGER side on a car with equal-length driveshafts - if it's a B-series this applies. Unequal length shafts will require yopu to ALWAYS drain the tranny.

Reassamble it how you disassembled it. Only then you need to stake the axle nut down by putting a dent in it and do'nt forget to replace the cotter pin in the lower balljoint castlenut!

7. Undo the front and rear motor mounts.
8. Secure the engine hoist - there’s a bracket on the tranny to hook the chain to, and a place on the back of the head that accepts a solid 14mm bolt to hook the chain to as well. This is a balanced way to hoist it up a Others may have other options too
9. After securing the motor, undo the rest of the mounts and YANK THAT BITCH OUT!
10. As the We Todd Did crew would do, sit back and drink some beer

So, how do you put the new motor back in? Same as the old one came out, and on the 1992-1995 Civics use the CIVIC mounts except for the timing cover drivers’ mount. I suggest Energy inserts for the other mounts

Wiring? I already covered that.

This is really a rough guide - it just shows you how easy the swap really is though, and others feel free to add advice/info too please!
I’m going to bed now, so if someone else wants to do a detailed install, feel free!



Later!

v-tec maz

you gave me the best of everythin i dont know how to say thanks

B18C5-EH2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by v-tec maz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you gave me the best of everythin i dont know how to say thanks
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hey no problem man. Sorry if I seemd a bit harsh about the repeat stuff, but when you're an old fart like me, and you been here a while, you've seen a lot of these topics.

Which engine do you think you'll go with?

I've had the following:

B16A2 - made 143whp/102ft-lbs. of torque - still have it in a 1992 Si HB

B18C1 - made 150whp and 122ft-lbs. of torque - sold it to get a B18C5 swap. The B18C1 raped the B16A2 swap in every way possible, at any rpm, speed, etc. Torque owns!

B18C5 - made 176whp with 130ft-lbs. of torque - most expensive swap (not for me, I got a killer deal ) but well worth it if you can save up for it. I still own this swap in a gutted 1992 CX hatch. Needless to say it romped the other set-ups, but again it's pricey.

My old man's honest advice is also don't overspend. You might not be into this car **** a few years from now, so you better make sure you can afford he swap you choose. Also I must also say do NOT use credit to buy a swap. If the swap gets stolen or you have troubles and it blows up, you're now paying for something you can't even use. Cash is best IMO.

Good luck.

antiJDM

damn that musta took a grip to write up, many things i did not know, now i know

v-tec maz

yo i think the best is b18c5 or b16b but i just wanted to know how much you paid for the complete swap

allyourapex

Good info in this thread.

Personally I’d go with the B18C(1) GSR engine. It's an awesome all around swap with plenty of potential.

-Ben

GUNNER666

it'll cost you a couple grand no matter which engine you buy.

B18C5-EH2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by v-tec maz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yo i think the best is b18c5 or b16b but i just wanted to know how much you paid for the complete swap </TD></TR></TABLE>

I purchased an entire totalled ITR back in 2001 for $4,000.00 and sold the 5-lug, dash, etc. for a shitload and basically got my B18C5 sap for about $2,000.00 after the sale of all that ****.

I also dols my B18C1 swap for $3,500.00, so I wasn't out of pocket too much.

allyourapex

Dizzamn!

Wish I could find a sweet deal on a GSR. My buddy got his whole swap for 1200.

-Ben

Combustion Contraption

usually the really really good deals are stolen motors. be careful people. tom came out smelling like roses because he took time and did the work to make the $$$ back....

Two_K Si

Unless you get it for a great price, the B16B is a little overpriced for what it is. But i think you should get it just to **** all the "Why the **** did you get a B16B?" people

B and B

iTrader: (3)

^^^^^^^^^
Goddamned encyclopedia of knowledge!
I'll be back later to read it all, Twilight Zone marathon is on....

SoftieB16

I dont know bout you but i got a complete B16A changeover plus hasport mounts, shift linkages and and 2 93 interga knuckles shipped from cali to ny for $2,200 from HMOTORSONLINE.COM check em out.

B18C5-EH2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SoftieB16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I dont know bout you but i got a complete B16A changeover plus hasport mounts, shift linkages and and 2 93 interga knuckles shipped from cali to ny for $2,200 from HMOTORSONLINE.COM check em out.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sounds like a first-gen B16A, which is cheaper than the OBD1 hydro-trannied B16A swaps that usually sell for $2,000.00-$2,400.00 or so plus shipping.

Again the OBD1 B16A swaps do not require HASport mount kits in the 92-00 Civics.

wizzards581

b16a or else get b18c.

b16b is alittle too much.