B16 vs Turbo Kit?
#1
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B16 vs Turbo Kit?
We'll I have a turbo kit for a D series laying around. Brand new Greddy Turbo Kit. With everything needed just need a dyno tune. But recently I've been having second thoughts on the turbo and I just recently had a offer to trade the turbo kit for a complete b16 swap. Do you guys think this trade is worth it?
#3
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Re: B16 vs Turbo Kit? (fryguy190)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fryguy190 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what kind of D-Series motor do you have???</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have a JDM D15B Vtec engine.
I have a JDM D15B Vtec engine.
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Re: B16 vs Turbo Kit? (mortificationrock)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mortificationrock »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I have a JDM D15B Vtec engine.</TD></TR></TABLE>
No, I don't think it's worth it, boost the D15, get better gas mileage than him, and then blow him outta the water.
I have a JDM D15B Vtec engine.</TD></TR></TABLE>
No, I don't think it's worth it, boost the D15, get better gas mileage than him, and then blow him outta the water.
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Re: B16 vs Turbo Kit? (mortificationrock)
Depends on what you are looking to achieve. b16 will have no low end torque but more potential in the future if u boost. But if you're just looking for 180-200whp with lots of torque to boot, then I'd say keep the greddy and boost. If costs is a factor just keep the greddy because to get 200hp/tq on the b16 will cost more in the long run. The even trade will only get you 140whp/100wtq vs 180whp/160wtq with the kit. But having a DOHC looks nice in the engine bay!
#6
Re: B16 vs Turbo Kit? (Syndacate)
lol x2!
dont trade the turbo kit man. i dont think its all that good of a trade, especially since the feeling of walking all over someone in a single cam is almost better feeling than...... nevermind.
dont trade the turbo kit man. i dont think its all that good of a trade, especially since the feeling of walking all over someone in a single cam is almost better feeling than...... nevermind.
#7
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Re: B16 vs Turbo Kit? (ekhatchling)
Well im already getting bad mileage as it is. About 20mpg? Which is gay. And my wifie really doesn't want me to turbo. I don't know. Man. I really would like a DOHC but if its not worth it then no I guess.
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#8
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id go with the b16 cause stock as a rock = reliable
last thing you need is to be broken down on the side of the road witha rod hidden somewhere in your engine bay
last thing you need is to be broken down on the side of the road witha rod hidden somewhere in your engine bay
#9
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Re: (preludedriva)
Well that's the **** also. I want reliability. That's why I tough it be worth it. I know that with my turbo I will be able to smoke a couple b16s. But then again I can build the b16 also.
#11
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Re: (96MIDORIEK)
yea to me you already know what you want.
and if you r set on getting it well then go ahead. its the same of what my dad told me.
you decide how to build your car. not your friends.
and if you r set on getting it well then go ahead. its the same of what my dad told me.
you decide how to build your car. not your friends.
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Re: (SpoonFedEJ)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SpoonFedEJ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Dont cheat yourself get the B16 or you wont be happy in the end.. . besides SOHC dont look right in civics.. . they look good in the trash though.. .</TD></TR></TABLE>ha ha. if anything get an lsv. its gonna suck when you swap in the b16 and you just a hair faster than the sohc.
#14
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Re: (ivan93egreppin210)
Nah.....im keepin' my turbo.LoL. Screw it. Im just gonna save the 200bux and tune the bitch and call it a day. Way faster than a b16 and probably can eat stock gsr's too.LoL. Plus if I blow it it'll be cheaper to replace. If I do blow it I might build it for boost ground up. but what's really bothering my *** right now is its gas mileage. It sux. At first it had a toda chip on it. I replaced it with a stock p28 chip. And still it sucks *****. What else can I look for when it comes to burning too much gas?
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Are you saying it gets bad mileage non turbo just putting around or have you put the kit on and wondering why the mpg is low?
I'm running a 50trim on my Y8 and with my tune I still get stock mpg out of boost. Hell I think I actually get better.
Burning too much gas could be putting too much lead foot into it.
I'm running a 50trim on my Y8 and with my tune I still get stock mpg out of boost. Hell I think I actually get better.
Burning too much gas could be putting too much lead foot into it.
#16
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Re: (SpoonFedEJ)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SpoonFedEJ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Dont cheat yourself get the B16 or you wont be happy in the end.. . besides SOHC dont look right in civics.. . they look good in the trash though.. .</TD></TR></TABLE>
Epic first post...
Anyways this is an argument that's old as H-t itself, and it's been debated heatedly time and time again.
The way I see it:
In this case you've already got the turbo kit, so you might as well install it, tune it, and have fun with it. It will undoubtedly make more than the standard 140-145whp/998100ft-lbs. of torque to the wheels that a B16A with i/h/e will lay down.
The boosted D15B might not be stock Honda reliable, but if you have it tuned by a competant tuner with a good set-up like Uberdata, Crome, Neptune, Hondata, etc. then it will be much better off than most of the people who just run some piggyback box or "boost a pump" crap.
The B16A will be reliable as reliable can possibly be, and they are decently quick (I've owned one in a 1992 Si HB) and it has more potential to make more power with all mods being equal, such as 6lbs. of boost on the B16A = more power/faster than an equally 6lbs. of boost D15B, but the overall cost for the boosted B16A is much, much more than the D15B and turbo kit you've already got.
I love B swaps, but in this case I think it's an easy choice.
Epic first post...
Anyways this is an argument that's old as H-t itself, and it's been debated heatedly time and time again.
The way I see it:
In this case you've already got the turbo kit, so you might as well install it, tune it, and have fun with it. It will undoubtedly make more than the standard 140-145whp/998100ft-lbs. of torque to the wheels that a B16A with i/h/e will lay down.
The boosted D15B might not be stock Honda reliable, but if you have it tuned by a competant tuner with a good set-up like Uberdata, Crome, Neptune, Hondata, etc. then it will be much better off than most of the people who just run some piggyback box or "boost a pump" crap.
The B16A will be reliable as reliable can possibly be, and they are decently quick (I've owned one in a 1992 Si HB) and it has more potential to make more power with all mods being equal, such as 6lbs. of boost on the B16A = more power/faster than an equally 6lbs. of boost D15B, but the overall cost for the boosted B16A is much, much more than the D15B and turbo kit you've already got.
I love B swaps, but in this case I think it's an easy choice.
#17
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Re: (JShull)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JShull »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are you saying it gets bad mileage non turbo just putting around or have you put the kit on and wondering why the mpg is low?
I'm running a 50trim on my Y8 and with my tune I still get stock mpg out of boost. Hell I think I actually get better.
Burning too much gas could be putting too much lead foot into it. </TD></TR></TABLE>
No burning gas like hell stock with the bolt ons. The turbo aint on yet. And makes me not want to put it cuz of the shity mileage already. 20 mpg if not less. What gives? I mean I was granny driving this time and no luck.
I'm running a 50trim on my Y8 and with my tune I still get stock mpg out of boost. Hell I think I actually get better.
Burning too much gas could be putting too much lead foot into it. </TD></TR></TABLE>
No burning gas like hell stock with the bolt ons. The turbo aint on yet. And makes me not want to put it cuz of the shity mileage already. 20 mpg if not less. What gives? I mean I was granny driving this time and no luck.
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Re: (mortificationrock)
This is a very common question these days. I always vote for the turbo . Its much better all around and if you get a referee ticket you can just take the turbo kit off and go to the referee. You don't need to find another motor and do all that b.s. Just make sure you find a good tuner and you will be set
#21
Re: (flipkc)
Agreed b16 sounds like a better idea. Going turbo kit you might have problems down the line. but you also live in cali. I dont know how the rules work with swap's and emmission's or ref's or whatever it called. Try to keep the d series if you can.
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As for the burning gas, cel light on? I would also suggest pulling the plugs and checking them. It may not be running right because a p28 map is not the correct one for the car. I think the p08 is the one for the D15B anyway.
If you get a good tune then chances are the motor will last. Just because you add boost doesn't mean the car is unreliable.
No matter what option you choose if you drive like a jack *** neither setup will last very long.
If you get a good tune then chances are the motor will last. Just because you add boost doesn't mean the car is unreliable.
No matter what option you choose if you drive like a jack *** neither setup will last very long.
#23
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Re: (JShull)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JShull »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As for the burning gas, cel light on? I would also suggest pulling the plugs and checking them. It may not be running right because a p28 map is not the correct one for the car. I think the p08 is the one for the D15B anyway.
If you get a good tune then chances are the motor will last. Just because you add boost doesn't mean the car is unreliable.
No matter what option you choose if you drive like a jack *** neither setup will last very long. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Well I have no Cel's and im aware about the diffirent maps but believe me I even tried the P08 maps and same ****. That's why im kind of tired of this car. Changed almost all the sensors IAT,O2,Map, and others and same ****. 20 mpg or sometimes even less is bad for a civic. My ej8 gets about 31-32 mpg with bolt ons and all. Basically the same bolt ons on both cars with the exception of the Skunk2 mani. But I tought that with better flow brand new parts as in no carbon on them it should run great, but it don't. Its a POS. That's why im giving up on it and thinking of going B. But then again if I can resolve this gas issue ill keep my D. Anyone have any pointer on what it might be? Has brand new oil,oil filter,spark plugs are iridium(ngk) brand new sensors,brand new dizzy with msd ignition coil and cap and wires. Im stumped
If you get a good tune then chances are the motor will last. Just because you add boost doesn't mean the car is unreliable.
No matter what option you choose if you drive like a jack *** neither setup will last very long. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Well I have no Cel's and im aware about the diffirent maps but believe me I even tried the P08 maps and same ****. That's why im kind of tired of this car. Changed almost all the sensors IAT,O2,Map, and others and same ****. 20 mpg or sometimes even less is bad for a civic. My ej8 gets about 31-32 mpg with bolt ons and all. Basically the same bolt ons on both cars with the exception of the Skunk2 mani. But I tought that with better flow brand new parts as in no carbon on them it should run great, but it don't. Its a POS. That's why im giving up on it and thinking of going B. But then again if I can resolve this gas issue ill keep my D. Anyone have any pointer on what it might be? Has brand new oil,oil filter,spark plugs are iridium(ngk) brand new sensors,brand new dizzy with msd ignition coil and cap and wires. Im stumped