B16 transmission rebuild...
10-30-2005, 09:05 PM
#26
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Re: (vancoland)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vancoland »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">omfg....you are the most stupidess person i've ever seen...scroll down to disassembling countershaft.
No one is posting because i already answered your question retard. I never said that all trannys are the same....i said that a manual transmission is a manual transmission and they all have gear sets...you want specific info about what syncros your b16 tranny needs?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ironic isn't it! hahaha
Now who's the (correct spelling) stupidest
No one is posting because i already answered your question retard. I never said that all trannys are the same....i said that a manual transmission is a manual transmission and they all have gear sets...you want specific info about what syncros your b16 tranny needs?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ironic isn't it! hahaha
Now who's the (correct spelling) stupidest
10-30-2005, 09:09 PM
#27
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did you not scroll down to disassembling countershaft dumb fawk?...it shows you how to remove syncros and gears...if you can disassemble it...surely you can replace/assemble it back together. Well, maybe not retards like you
10-30-2005, 09:12 PM
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oh wow...you can spell...show me your college degree?...just because i type in my haste and not use a spell checker...you think you're better than everyone else if you do?
10-30-2005, 10:31 PM
#29
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Re: (AMECustom)
Jeez this is getting painful. OK, I'm rebuilding my B16A2/S4C trans right now so I might be of some help. I've been in this same exact trans before for the synchro recall so I know what's going on in there and it's pretty fresh in my mind. But that's not why I'm in there this time. Plus the best way to learn is from your mistakes. I won't go through all the tolerance specs cause they'll be in the helms manual.
First of all, aside from regular hand tools, make sure you have a set of feeler gauges and vernier calipers, and a micrometer. Use a search if you don't know what any of these tools look like.
Start by removing the plug at the end of the transmission with a 1/2" drive breaker bar or ratchet. There's a spring clip in there holding the countershaft. While you open up the spring clip, GENTLY tap on the transmission housing until the countershaft drops down.
Then look around the transmission housing. There should be three bolts that appear to be holding nothing down. Two on the bottom, one on the top. Unbolt them and collect the detent springs and detent *****. Put them aside.
Then you can remove the 15 or so bolts holding the the transmission housing to the clutch housing. Again GENTLY tap the case and ease them apart with a prybar. It's alumium so be careful. There are special prytabs cast into the case. I recommend using them and not jamming the prybar between the halves.
Got the case off? Good. See the mainshaft and countershaft? The counter is the one with the two bearings and locknut on the end. On each shaft there are a set of gold "gears". These are your synchros. See the shift forks that move the synchro sleeve between gears? You have to get those as a set with new synchros. You say you need third? You need the third synchro ring and fourth synchro ring and the synchro sleeve and hub.
I would go ahead and inspect all of the synchros and the dog teeth on each gear. The dog teeth are the smaller set of that correspond to the synchro ring. Should be complete and slightly pointy. If not, they need replacement as well.
Now this is very general since I am used to this sort of thing. Unfortunately it takes some experience to notice even some of the more obvious wear patterns. Let me know if you get stuck somewhere because, like I said, I'm rebuilding mine with all new bearings, GS-R fifth, and possibly an LSD. So I'll be at it for a while.
For approximate prices, search here:
http://www.acuraparts247.com/s...l=All
It's for an Integra but I can't find a corresponding list for USDM Honda models with diagrams that are as clear. Look under MT Mainshaft and it looks like part number 10 for the 3rd and 4th gear synchro set. Take some pics of all the gears if you need more help. And at this stage you should have your helms manual for all the tolerance specs. Good luck.
First of all, aside from regular hand tools, make sure you have a set of feeler gauges and vernier calipers, and a micrometer. Use a search if you don't know what any of these tools look like.
Start by removing the plug at the end of the transmission with a 1/2" drive breaker bar or ratchet. There's a spring clip in there holding the countershaft. While you open up the spring clip, GENTLY tap on the transmission housing until the countershaft drops down.
Then look around the transmission housing. There should be three bolts that appear to be holding nothing down. Two on the bottom, one on the top. Unbolt them and collect the detent springs and detent *****. Put them aside.
Then you can remove the 15 or so bolts holding the the transmission housing to the clutch housing. Again GENTLY tap the case and ease them apart with a prybar. It's alumium so be careful. There are special prytabs cast into the case. I recommend using them and not jamming the prybar between the halves.
Got the case off? Good. See the mainshaft and countershaft? The counter is the one with the two bearings and locknut on the end. On each shaft there are a set of gold "gears". These are your synchros. See the shift forks that move the synchro sleeve between gears? You have to get those as a set with new synchros. You say you need third? You need the third synchro ring and fourth synchro ring and the synchro sleeve and hub.
I would go ahead and inspect all of the synchros and the dog teeth on each gear. The dog teeth are the smaller set of that correspond to the synchro ring. Should be complete and slightly pointy. If not, they need replacement as well.
Now this is very general since I am used to this sort of thing. Unfortunately it takes some experience to notice even some of the more obvious wear patterns. Let me know if you get stuck somewhere because, like I said, I'm rebuilding mine with all new bearings, GS-R fifth, and possibly an LSD. So I'll be at it for a while.
For approximate prices, search here:
http://www.acuraparts247.com/s...l=All
It's for an Integra but I can't find a corresponding list for USDM Honda models with diagrams that are as clear. Look under MT Mainshaft and it looks like part number 10 for the 3rd and 4th gear synchro set. Take some pics of all the gears if you need more help. And at this stage you should have your helms manual for all the tolerance specs. Good luck.
10-30-2005, 10:38 PM
#30
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Re: (L8apex)
One other note: Before you start removing the shift forks and gear sets and all that fun stuff, shift the transmission by hand into each gear and watch everything move. Get an idea of how everything works together and how it looks. Put it in gear, spin the shafts, next gear spin the shafts.
I'm serious, spend like an hour doing this.
I'm serious, spend like an hour doing this.
10-31-2005, 03:51 AM
#31
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Re: (vancoland)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vancoland »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=642479
all you need buddy, that and parts from gearspeed....they should have the price for you when you pm them</TD></TR></TABLE>
gearspeed, just put a set of their syncros in my tranny along with a quaiffe.
all you need buddy, that and parts from gearspeed....they should have the price for you when you pm them</TD></TR></TABLE>
gearspeed, just put a set of their syncros in my tranny along with a quaiffe.
10-31-2005, 04:28 AM
#32
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Re: (L8apex)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by L8apex »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">One other note: Before you start removing the shift forks and gear sets and all that fun stuff, shift the transmission by hand into each gear and watch everything move. Get an idea of how everything works together and how it looks. Put it in gear, spin the shafts, next gear spin the shafts.
I'm serious, spend like an hour doing this.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thank you L8apex. Your post clears things up a bit along with the pics from that one post. I appreciate you explaining this to me
I'm serious, spend like an hour doing this.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thank you L8apex. Your post clears things up a bit along with the pics from that one post. I appreciate you explaining this to me
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