Nicky

Hey ya'll im running a chipped P28 ecu and have a 1st gen B16.

All the wires plugged in minus the CKF near the alternator.

Started the car up and it's surging/bogging.

Here is a video to show it sounds:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B2s6a...e=channel_page

Any ideas?

mmmbrapND

map and tps are prolly backwards...

Nicky

Ya I'm getting a Code and 7 & 14?

I'll try flipping them over, do you know what colored wires goes to MAP and TPS?

Hanmin

just flip it over and unplug the ecu and plug it back in then start it up and see if it persists.

You should put in the description that this is a chevy motor or something so the youtube ***gots can love your car=].

Nicky

Flipped plugs over un-plugged ecu put it back in and started it up, at the start it was normal then it started surging again.

Can it possible it's in limp mode?

prime-R

rev it and see where your rpms redline that will let you know if your on limp mode,plus do you have check engine light?

Nicky

WHOOOhooo it's running, but when I give gas it hesitates and can't seem to feel the
power?

I didn't hit redline it keeps on going till bout 6000 i didn't push it after that.

The only problem now is it hesitates when giving it gas.

prime-R

well its not on limp mode if your hitting 6k im thinking your vtec kicked in right?plus you didnt answer any cels

Nicky

Now the rpm is going up and down also getting 3 and 14 code?

Nicky

And I don't think it's in limp mode.

But the power isn't going to wheels when I'm in 1st and 2nd? I can hear it rev'in but the wheels not spinning enough?

gotz2b16

If you're talking about the same rev limit as I heard in the vid, you don't have a 6K redline, it's a bit lower than that.. like maybe half that..

If your P28 is chipped, cut "J1" next to the chip and see if it's a program problem.. If you have a stock ECU, try it.. I bet your problems go away if you have everything plugged in right..

It wouldn't hurt to get a wiring diagram and make sure you have all the plugs going to the right places.. Double check your jumper harness too (Assuming it's an OBD2 car.) make sure no wires are loose or broken off..

Nicky

No no the one in the vid is around 2000 or less. It was running good but just with the problem of the power not going directly to the wheels, when I switched the map and tps plugs.

And after about 10-15mins for some odd reason it went back to how it was in the start like in the video. IDK

The P28 is chipped infact, if I cut J1 what do I do to put it back if it's not the problem? Or does it mean the P28 is now useless?

I'm been trying to find a wiring diagram but unable to do so. I looked at the one in the service manual but it doesn't show or tell the wire colours.

Also the two vaccum lines in the back of the TB can I leave those open or does it have to plugged?

Luserkid

Dont cut J1, more then likely if you cut it you wont be able to put it back to chipped status. Alot of times now there is a piece you could pull that keeps J1 active but I suggest you dont touch the ecu.

Code 14 is IAC (your idle problem) and Code 3 is your MAP (probably because you switched it with TPS not knowing what your doing but someone told you to do it). Change them back and see if 3 goes away. yel/wht, red/blu, grn/wht = TPS. yel/red, wht, grn/wht OR yel/grn, wht, grn/blu = MAP. Make sure those are right.

Make sure your IAC is wired up correctly (like i told you in PMs). I dont care if you do have an EX harness, if its an Auto EX harness your in the same boat as your DX harness. Start with that.

Just watched the video, that sounds to me like whoever did that chip put a rev limiter on it. Hope in the car and see where it stops at (should be 3k)

Nicky

Ok these are the colours on the harness:
MAP: Yellow/Red,Green/White, Red/Green
TPS: Green/Black, Red/Black, Yellow/Black
IAC: Green, Black

Seems like my IAC is the only one that match's. There is a plug like the IAC that is plugged into the intake it self near the gas goes back into the firewall which is Yellow/Black, Blue/Black
Code 3 went away when I switched it back to how it was. Now only getting 7 and 14 (damn it I just can't rid of those)

And your rite it does start the surge at around 2200-2700rmp, still having the exact same prob, I reset the ecu and still nothing. Well the way I reset it is disconnecting the battery for more then 15mins.

Any other ideas? And I don't think I'm going to touch the ECU, this motor was running 100% in my friends car just about 2months ago.

Nicky

What does it mean when you have a rev limiter?

Nicky

Hey does anyone have pictures of a 1st gen intake in a obd2b car?

I want to know where exactly do all the vaccum lines go?

Or can anyone explain it to me please? 3 in the back minus one for the brake booster. etc

Thanks

Nicky

Ok, got all the lines in.

But still getting 7 and 14 code. Took out the IAC and cleaned it. Switched another ECU, and still the same thing!!

PLEASE ANYONE? I"M PRETTY MUCH IN DESPERATE NEED NOW.

I know it has to be a simple thing but what?

Nicky

But one thing I did notice is when I took the IAC plug out while the motor was running it made no difference? Or the TPS.

When I took the MAP plug off it shut off.

Nicky

So far I've cleaned my IAC.

Another ECU, checked all wires.

Unplugged the IAC plug and nothing happens to the idle?

Unplugged TPS nothing happens to the motor?

Unplugged the MAP and the motor turns off?

Any other information I can provide to fix the problem? Pictures? Videos?

gotz2b16

Make sure your IAC (Idle Air control) and IAT (Intake Air Temp) sensor and EVAP CANISTER PURGE Solenoid wires are not swapped. That'll fry your IAT and most likely damage Q31 (Canister purge solenoid driver) on your ECU and will throw codes..

If you cut J1, it will run internal program data (Stock P28) When J1 is jumped, it activates External program data (Your modded chip)..

You need to be on top of your game and stop guessing where things go.. it's not like playing with legos.. If you mess up, it can cost you time and money.. And stupid hurts sometimes.. I recommend getting resources on wire colors for different sensors/solenoids and make sure you have everything plugged in correctly before you cause some severe damage if you haven't already. .

Nicky

Oh man that scared me lol. Well I'll pray that I haven't caused any damages. If any damages were caused it would mainly be to the ECU itself correct? And not the engine components ?

So if I cut the J1 it'll just go back to normal settings of a P28, ok got it. Which is perfectly fine with me for the time being as I just want the car to run.

Umm for the coloring I'll try to find it on the service manual I've got. I'll also take pictures of each plug tom and post them up for further reviewing.

gotz2b16

you can damage your IAT, Q31 on your ECU and/or other related circuits in the ECU, and possibly the IAC although not entirely likely.

Nicky

This is what 'mg going to do, take out the whole EWH, locate each and every plug and tag it to where it should go.

Is there any link or source other then service manual with exact wire colors for my 1999 EX manual wiring harness?

Utzz

The wire colors you listed above for the MAP and TPS, Nicky, are spot on. But the IACV uses the Yel/Blk & Blk/Blu connector, where-as the power steering uses the Grn & Blk connector...at least on an OBD2b Ex-manual wiring harness.

Nicky

Are you sure? Is there even a plug for power steering? Never heard of that.

Do you have some sort of picture you can take or provide me? THANKS!!