B16 into EG swap issues. (fouled Plugs, dies when you gas it, doesnt go over 3500)
11-20-2006, 07:48 PM
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B16 into EG swap issues. (fouled Plugs, dies when you gas it, doesnt go over 3500)
Ok Honda-Tech, this is my first swap, and i am having some problems gettin it running. SOOO......i'm gonna come at this from a newb standpoint. (sorry)
Please Help. (yes i Searched. and found alot of info that helped, just need a little better info.)
Heres the specifics.
Its a JDM b16 in an EG chassis
OBD1 HArness with phearable.net chipped p28.
First off, I purchased a wiring harness, throttle body/TPS, and injectors from Diffut's Inc. Here on honda-tech which later turned out to be GARBAGE. After putting the wiring harness and motor in the car I noticed there was alot of taped and cut areas on the harness, and it is also missing the o2 sensor completely. Me and My buddy Chad did our best to fix the harness for a temporary until i find an other.
I started the car after the swap, and it threw some codes, including TPS, So i borrowed a TB and TPS from a friend (fixed that problem) now it is running really badly. I have to give it gas when firing in order to start the car. I am having trouble with it keeping running once it is started and it wont exceed about 3000 to 3500 rpm. At the moment it is not throwing any CEL's. I Pulled the plugs out and they are all characoal black and a "TAD" wet, so i put new plugs in the car. I'm looking to you guys know before i start the car in order to maybe fix it before i foul out these new plugs.
There is still no o2 sensor on the car due to shitty Harness.
I also didnt wire anything from the car to the ECU, because i read that 92 cx's are already wired for VTEC. (maybe a problem?)
As far as I can tell, The timing in the car is not off. As of now it has a new fuel filter.
What do you guys think? any suggestions on what I should do next would be appreciated to me, and probably alot of people.
Please Help. (yes i Searched. and found alot of info that helped, just need a little better info.)
Heres the specifics.
Its a JDM b16 in an EG chassis
OBD1 HArness with phearable.net chipped p28.
First off, I purchased a wiring harness, throttle body/TPS, and injectors from Diffut's Inc. Here on honda-tech which later turned out to be GARBAGE. After putting the wiring harness and motor in the car I noticed there was alot of taped and cut areas on the harness, and it is also missing the o2 sensor completely. Me and My buddy Chad did our best to fix the harness for a temporary until i find an other.
I started the car after the swap, and it threw some codes, including TPS, So i borrowed a TB and TPS from a friend (fixed that problem) now it is running really badly. I have to give it gas when firing in order to start the car. I am having trouble with it keeping running once it is started and it wont exceed about 3000 to 3500 rpm. At the moment it is not throwing any CEL's. I Pulled the plugs out and they are all characoal black and a "TAD" wet, so i put new plugs in the car. I'm looking to you guys know before i start the car in order to maybe fix it before i foul out these new plugs.
There is still no o2 sensor on the car due to shitty Harness.
I also didnt wire anything from the car to the ECU, because i read that 92 cx's are already wired for VTEC. (maybe a problem?)
As far as I can tell, The timing in the car is not off. As of now it has a new fuel filter.
What do you guys think? any suggestions on what I should do next would be appreciated to me, and probably alot of people.
11-20-2006, 08:07 PM
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Re: B16 into EG swap issues. (Yak BallZ)
<FONT COLOR="blue/"><FONT SIZE="2/">Alright, I started the car with the new plugs, it idles better but the new plugs were instantly</FONT> BLACK! </FONT>
11-20-2006, 08:58 PM
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Re: B16 into EG swap issues. (spoonracer84eg)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spoonracer84eg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Check timing and check the voltage on the TPS. Thats the only things I can really think of.</TD></TR></TABLE>
also check firing order and you may have TPS and MAP sensors mixed up which would limit your motor from passing 3-4k
also check firing order and you may have TPS and MAP sensors mixed up which would limit your motor from passing 3-4k
11-20-2006, 09:00 PM
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Re: B16 into EG swap issues. (Yak BallZ)
what injectors and Ecu? black as in running rich or black as in oil?
How is it not throwing a O2 Sensor Cell when none is hooked up? I think there are more things wrong with it then what the car is telling you.
How is it not throwing a O2 Sensor Cell when none is hooked up? I think there are more things wrong with it then what the car is telling you.
11-20-2006, 09:05 PM
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Re: B16 into EG swap issues. (PinkMaggit)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PinkMaggit »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what injectors and Ecu? black as in running rich or black as in oil?
How is it not throwing a O2 Sensor Cell when none is hooked up? I think there are more things wrong with it then what the car is telling you. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Black as in running rich.
OBD1 B16 injectors and Chipped p28
I think its not throwin a o2 one cuz im not lettin it run long enough to even get hot
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EGwhat!!! »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
also check firing order and you may have TPS and MAP sensors mixed up which would limit your motor from passing 3-4k</TD></TR></TABLE>
In think I have em hooked up right, ive switched them back and forth. Do you happen to know the wire colors for each?>
How is it not throwing a O2 Sensor Cell when none is hooked up? I think there are more things wrong with it then what the car is telling you. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Black as in running rich.
OBD1 B16 injectors and Chipped p28
I think its not throwin a o2 one cuz im not lettin it run long enough to even get hot
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EGwhat!!! »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
also check firing order and you may have TPS and MAP sensors mixed up which would limit your motor from passing 3-4k</TD></TR></TABLE>
In think I have em hooked up right, ive switched them back and forth. Do you happen to know the wire colors for each?>
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11-20-2006, 09:16 PM
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Re: B16 into EG swap issues. (Yak BallZ)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Yak BallZ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
In think I have em hooked up right, ive switched them back and forth. Do you happen to know the wire colors for each?></TD></TR></TABLE>
TPS-green/white - red/blue - yellow/white
MAP-yellow/red - green/white - white
In think I have em hooked up right, ive switched them back and forth. Do you happen to know the wire colors for each?></TD></TR></TABLE>
TPS-green/white - red/blue - yellow/white
MAP-yellow/red - green/white - white
11-20-2006, 09:32 PM
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Re: B16 into EG swap issues. (EGwhat!!!)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EGwhat!!! »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
TPS-green/white - red/blue - yellow/white
MAP-yellow/red - green/white - white</TD></TR></TABLE>
thank you.
TPS-green/white - red/blue - yellow/white
MAP-yellow/red - green/white - white</TD></TR></TABLE>
thank you.
11-20-2006, 09:37 PM
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Re: B16 into EG swap issues. (Yak BallZ)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EGwhat!!! »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
TPS-green/white - red/blue - yellow/white
MAP-yellow/red - green/white - white</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EGwhat!!! »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
TPS-green/white - red/blue - yellow/white
MAP-yellow/red - green/white - white</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EGwhat!!! »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
TPS-green/white - red/blue - yellow/white
MAP-yellow/red - green/white - white</TD></TR></TABLE>
They are both the same, yellow/red - green/white - white!
This harness is so RIGGED its unbelieveable. Im gonna have to trace em down and figure it out i guess.
TPS-green/white - red/blue - yellow/white
MAP-yellow/red - green/white - white</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EGwhat!!! »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
TPS-green/white - red/blue - yellow/white
MAP-yellow/red - green/white - white</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EGwhat!!! »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
TPS-green/white - red/blue - yellow/white
MAP-yellow/red - green/white - white</TD></TR></TABLE>
They are both the same, yellow/red - green/white - white!
This harness is so RIGGED its unbelieveable. Im gonna have to trace em down and figure it out i guess.
11-20-2006, 09:37 PM
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Re: B16 into EG swap issues. (Yak BallZ)
are your spark plug wires in the correct order???
they shouldnt be the same why didnt you use your old harness the one that came with the car???
they shouldnt be the same why didnt you use your old harness the one that came with the car???
11-20-2006, 09:52 PM
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Re: B16 into EG swap issues. (EGwhat!!!)
The plugs are in the correct order.
The reason the TPS and MAP wires are the same on mine is because the seller i bought it from fucked it all up before selling it to me. I didnt notice how bad it was until i put it in.
I might have to use the stock harness, but its a non vtec harness.
The reason the TPS and MAP wires are the same on mine is because the seller i bought it from fucked it all up before selling it to me. I didnt notice how bad it was until i put it in.
I might have to use the stock harness, but its a non vtec harness.
11-20-2006, 09:58 PM
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Re: B16 into EG swap issues. (Yak BallZ)
just wire in vtec not that hard
Originally Posted by JDMlyfestyle
Courtesy of FF-Sqaud.com
KEY:
(Wire color), (Function/Description (if need be)), (Voltage Value (DC Volts Unless otherwise specified)
V = Volts
Wht = White
Blk = Black
Grn = Green
Yel = Yellow
Brn = Brown
Blu = Blue
Org = Orange
KOEO = Key on; Engine OFF
KOER = Key on; Engine Running
OBD1
A1-INJ1 INJ1 Brown, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A2-INJ4 INJ4 Yellow, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A3-INJ2 INJ2 Red, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A4-VTS VTEC solenoid GRN/YEL, N/a
A5-INJ3 INJ3 Blue, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A6-PO2SHTC O2 sensor (heating element) Org/Wht, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A7-FLR1 fuel pump Grn/BLK, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A8-empty A7 and A8 have the same circurt, so they can be the same
A9-IACV IAC valve Blk/Blu, About 10v KOEO on Warm engine
A10-empty
A11- This is EGR Control Solenoid Valve (if the ECU has) Red, N/A
A12-FANC engine coolant temp switch Blu/red, N/A
A13-MIL MIL (check engine light) Blu/wht, N/A
A14-empty
A15-ACC (a/c compressor clutch) Red/Blu, N/A
A16-ALT C alternator Wht/Grn, N/A
A17-IAB IAB Solenoid Pink, N/A
A18- Org/Red, Transmission Control Module (A/T), N/A
A19- White, Intake control solenoid, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A20-PCS EVAP purge control solenoid Red/Grn, N/a
A21-ICM ICM Yel/Grn, Ignition Control Module (ICM) Output signal, About 10V KOEO
A22- *per Sander* Ignitor same as A21
A23-PG1 ground Black, Power ground, less than 1V
A24-PG2 ground same as A23
A25-IGP2 to main relay and to gound for o Yel/blk, Battery positive from Main relay, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A26-LG1 gound Blk/red, less than 1V
B1-IGP2 to pin A25 Yel/Blk, Battery positive from Main relay, Battery Voltage with KOEO
B2-LG2 ground to shields for CYP & TDC Brown/Blk, Less than 1V
B3- Orange, upshift/downshift comparative input, N/A
B4- Pink, upshift/downshift comparative input, N/A
B5-ACS a/c switch Blu/Blk, A/c input, About 5V with KOEO & A/C off; less than 1V KOER with A/C & blower on
B6-empty
B7- Light green, Park/Neutral switch (A/T), Less than 1V in Park or Neutral with KOEO; 5V in Park or neutral with KOER; Battery voltage in all other positions
B8-PSPSW PSP switch Red/Green, Power steering oil pressure switch, 0V KOEO; Battery Voltage KOER While slowly turning steering wheel
B9-STARTER SIGNAL starter signal Blue/red, Battery Voltage in the START position (clutch depressed on M/T models)
B10-VSS vehicle speed sensor Orange, Pulses 0-12V while turning the left front wheel
B11-CYP P CYP -P Orange, CYP sensor input, N/A
B12-CYP M CYP -M White, CYP sensor signal, N/A
B13-TDC P TDC -P Org/Blue, TDC sensor input, N/A
B14-TDC M TDC -M Wht/Blue, TDC sensor signal, N/A
B15-CKP P CKP -P Blu/Green, CKP Sensor input, N/A
B16-CKP M CKP -M Blu/yel, CKP Sensor signal, N/A
D1-VBU Back Up Power Wht/Yel, Battery positive From battery through Fuse Box, Battery Voltage at ALL times
D2-BKSW brake switch Grn/wht, Battery voltage at all times
D3-KS Knock Sensor Red/Blue, N/A
D4-SCS service check connector Brown/Wht, About 5V (M/T); About 11V (A/T)
D5-empty
D6-VTM VTEC pressure switch Light Blue, N/A
D7-TXD/RXD (data link connector) Light Green/Red, N/A
D8-empty
D9-ALT F alternator Wht/Red, Alternator Charging Signal, About 4.5V KOEO; Decreases under Electrical load (Headlights & rear defogger on) At warm idle
D10-ELD electric load detector input Grn/Blk, N/A
D11-TPS TPS Signal Red/Blk, About 0.5V KOEO with throttle fully closed; About 4.5V KOEO with throttle fully open
D12- Wht/Blk, EGR Valve Lift sensor, About 1.2V KOEO
D13-ECT ECT sensor input Yel/Blu, About 5V KOEO (varies with temperature)
D14-PHO2S O2 sensor White, heated 02 sensor Signal, 0.4-0.5V when ignition is turned on; drops to less than 0.1V within 2 minutes
D15-IAT IAT sensor Red/Yel, Intake Air Temperature signal, .05-4.5V KOEO(Varies with temperature)
D16-VREF VREF shows BLANK on my diagram
D17-MAP Map Signal Wht/Blu, About 3V KOEO (Varies with Temperature)
D18- Light Green/Blk, Transmission Control Module (A/T Only), N/A
D19 - Red/Wht, Reference Voltage, About 5V KOEO
D20 - Yel/Wht, Reference Voltage, About 5V KOEO
D21 - Blue/Wht, Sensor ground, Less than 1V
D22 - Green/Wht, Sensor ground, Less than 1V
KEY:
(Wire color), (Function/Description (if need be)), (Voltage Value (DC Volts Unless otherwise specified)
V = Volts
Wht = White
Blk = Black
Grn = Green
Yel = Yellow
Brn = Brown
Blu = Blue
Org = Orange
KOEO = Key on; Engine OFF
KOER = Key on; Engine Running
OBD1
A1-INJ1 INJ1 Brown, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A2-INJ4 INJ4 Yellow, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A3-INJ2 INJ2 Red, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A4-VTS VTEC solenoid GRN/YEL, N/a
A5-INJ3 INJ3 Blue, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A6-PO2SHTC O2 sensor (heating element) Org/Wht, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A7-FLR1 fuel pump Grn/BLK, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A8-empty A7 and A8 have the same circurt, so they can be the same
A9-IACV IAC valve Blk/Blu, About 10v KOEO on Warm engine
A10-empty
A11- This is EGR Control Solenoid Valve (if the ECU has) Red, N/A
A12-FANC engine coolant temp switch Blu/red, N/A
A13-MIL MIL (check engine light) Blu/wht, N/A
A14-empty
A15-ACC (a/c compressor clutch) Red/Blu, N/A
A16-ALT C alternator Wht/Grn, N/A
A17-IAB IAB Solenoid Pink, N/A
A18- Org/Red, Transmission Control Module (A/T), N/A
A19- White, Intake control solenoid, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A20-PCS EVAP purge control solenoid Red/Grn, N/a
A21-ICM ICM Yel/Grn, Ignition Control Module (ICM) Output signal, About 10V KOEO
A22- *per Sander* Ignitor same as A21
A23-PG1 ground Black, Power ground, less than 1V
A24-PG2 ground same as A23
A25-IGP2 to main relay and to gound for o Yel/blk, Battery positive from Main relay, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A26-LG1 gound Blk/red, less than 1V
B1-IGP2 to pin A25 Yel/Blk, Battery positive from Main relay, Battery Voltage with KOEO
B2-LG2 ground to shields for CYP & TDC Brown/Blk, Less than 1V
B3- Orange, upshift/downshift comparative input, N/A
B4- Pink, upshift/downshift comparative input, N/A
B5-ACS a/c switch Blu/Blk, A/c input, About 5V with KOEO & A/C off; less than 1V KOER with A/C & blower on
B6-empty
B7- Light green, Park/Neutral switch (A/T), Less than 1V in Park or Neutral with KOEO; 5V in Park or neutral with KOER; Battery voltage in all other positions
B8-PSPSW PSP switch Red/Green, Power steering oil pressure switch, 0V KOEO; Battery Voltage KOER While slowly turning steering wheel
B9-STARTER SIGNAL starter signal Blue/red, Battery Voltage in the START position (clutch depressed on M/T models)
B10-VSS vehicle speed sensor Orange, Pulses 0-12V while turning the left front wheel
B11-CYP P CYP -P Orange, CYP sensor input, N/A
B12-CYP M CYP -M White, CYP sensor signal, N/A
B13-TDC P TDC -P Org/Blue, TDC sensor input, N/A
B14-TDC M TDC -M Wht/Blue, TDC sensor signal, N/A
B15-CKP P CKP -P Blu/Green, CKP Sensor input, N/A
B16-CKP M CKP -M Blu/yel, CKP Sensor signal, N/A
D1-VBU Back Up Power Wht/Yel, Battery positive From battery through Fuse Box, Battery Voltage at ALL times
D2-BKSW brake switch Grn/wht, Battery voltage at all times
D3-KS Knock Sensor Red/Blue, N/A
D4-SCS service check connector Brown/Wht, About 5V (M/T); About 11V (A/T)
D5-empty
D6-VTM VTEC pressure switch Light Blue, N/A
D7-TXD/RXD (data link connector) Light Green/Red, N/A
D8-empty
D9-ALT F alternator Wht/Red, Alternator Charging Signal, About 4.5V KOEO; Decreases under Electrical load (Headlights & rear defogger on) At warm idle
D10-ELD electric load detector input Grn/Blk, N/A
D11-TPS TPS Signal Red/Blk, About 0.5V KOEO with throttle fully closed; About 4.5V KOEO with throttle fully open
D12- Wht/Blk, EGR Valve Lift sensor, About 1.2V KOEO
D13-ECT ECT sensor input Yel/Blu, About 5V KOEO (varies with temperature)
D14-PHO2S O2 sensor White, heated 02 sensor Signal, 0.4-0.5V when ignition is turned on; drops to less than 0.1V within 2 minutes
D15-IAT IAT sensor Red/Yel, Intake Air Temperature signal, .05-4.5V KOEO(Varies with temperature)
D16-VREF VREF shows BLANK on my diagram
D17-MAP Map Signal Wht/Blu, About 3V KOEO (Varies with Temperature)
D18- Light Green/Blk, Transmission Control Module (A/T Only), N/A
D19 - Red/Wht, Reference Voltage, About 5V KOEO
D20 - Yel/Wht, Reference Voltage, About 5V KOEO
D21 - Blue/Wht, Sensor ground, Less than 1V
D22 - Green/Wht, Sensor ground, Less than 1V
11-20-2006, 10:05 PM
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Re: B16 into EG swap issues. (EGwhat!!!)
Yeah, i think I'm going to have to do that in order to get it all done right. That harness I bought isnt really repairable. 
11-20-2006, 10:48 PM
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Re: B16 into EG swap issues. (EGwhat!!!)
the problem might be in the ecu itself
before i was tuned/ turboed i tried one of those "mugen/spoon" chips and it would not let me rev past 4000 rpms and it was running very rich
what chip are you running
before i was tuned/ turboed i tried one of those "mugen/spoon" chips and it would not let me rev past 4000 rpms and it was running very rich
what chip are you running
11-21-2006, 04:53 AM
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When you first get into your car and turn the ignition to the 2nd position does your CEL come on for atleast 3 seconds? Im assuming you are getting alot of codes but it's not showing. I also have a phearable.net chipped ecu and sometimes i have to put a stock p28 to read codes sometimes. Make sure your CEL is working first.
11-21-2006, 02:35 PM
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Re: (H9Omega)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by UNKNOWN_MEMBER »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i'd try a different harness first. then try different ecu.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, What i think to be the problem is the harness, its wired really badly, im gonna first try fixing it, then another harness.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by H9Omega »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When you first get into your car and turn the ignition to the 2nd position does your CEL come on for atleast 3 seconds? Im assuming you are getting alot of codes but it's not showing. I also have a phearable.net chipped ecu and sometimes i have to put a stock p28 to read codes sometimes. Make sure your CEL is working first.</TD></TR></TABLE>
It actually ran a few codes at first, and me and a friend looked up the codes and corrected them. I'm gonna try to use a friends ecu and check them again though if the CEL light stays for 3 or more.
Yeah, What i think to be the problem is the harness, its wired really badly, im gonna first try fixing it, then another harness.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by H9Omega »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When you first get into your car and turn the ignition to the 2nd position does your CEL come on for atleast 3 seconds? Im assuming you are getting alot of codes but it's not showing. I also have a phearable.net chipped ecu and sometimes i have to put a stock p28 to read codes sometimes. Make sure your CEL is working first.</TD></TR></TABLE>
It actually ran a few codes at first, and me and a friend looked up the codes and corrected them. I'm gonna try to use a friends ecu and check them again though if the CEL light stays for 3 or more.
11-21-2006, 02:45 PM
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Re: (Yak BallZ)
it can be narrowed down to:
1. wiring harness
2. ecu
3. check your grounds
i would say its prolly #1, happen to me once and my speedometer would jump crazy all over the place with 4 CELs, replaced the damn harness and now everything runs fine, no CELs. so check again to make sure.
1. wiring harness
2. ecu
3. check your grounds
i would say its prolly #1, happen to me once and my speedometer would jump crazy all over the place with 4 CELs, replaced the damn harness and now everything runs fine, no CELs. so check again to make sure.
11-21-2006, 03:06 PM
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Re: B16 into EG swap issues. (UNKNOWN_MEMBER)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by UNKNOWN_MEMBER »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i'd try a different harness first. then try different ecu.</TD></TR></TABLE>
took the words right out of my mouth.. I would actually try an ecu first, being it only takes 2 mins..
took the words right out of my mouth.. I would actually try an ecu first, being it only takes 2 mins..
11-21-2006, 11:08 PM
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Re: B16 into EG swap issues. (SwiftMertes)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eg6_rick »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it can be narrowed down to:
1. wiring harness
2. ecu
3. check your grounds
i would say its prolly #1, happen to me once and my speedometer would jump crazy all over the place with 4 CELs, replaced the damn harness and now everything runs fine, no CELs. so check again to make sure. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, I took my wiring harness in to work and peeled all the tape/shrink wrap/zip ties off, and fixed all the crossed and messed up wires. Put it back in the car tonight, and its running good now.
Still need to wire up the o2 censor though.
1. wiring harness
2. ecu
3. check your grounds
i would say its prolly #1, happen to me once and my speedometer would jump crazy all over the place with 4 CELs, replaced the damn harness and now everything runs fine, no CELs. so check again to make sure. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, I took my wiring harness in to work and peeled all the tape/shrink wrap/zip ties off, and fixed all the crossed and messed up wires. Put it back in the car tonight, and its running good now.
Still need to wire up the o2 censor though.
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