mhohisel

I was bleeding the clutch to get it to shift properly after I rebuilt it. This seemed to help, I started it, and it cold-idled at 1300-1500 like normal, shifted to R and backed out, my car seemed to shift now after bleeding the line. I drove a circle around the yard shifting to 2nd, 1st and N. It got harder to shift and within about 5 gear changes, same old problem, the gear shift would NOT move with the engine on. I figured I'd bleed it again.

I shut off the engine to shift to reverse and head from the driveway to the garage, because if I start it in gear and let out the clutch, it works-ish. This time I started it up, and the car sluggishly started up at 100-150rpm, the alternator idiot light comes on cause the idle is so low. If I gave it gas, it would just BOG horribly and want to die even more! UNLESS I let it idle maybe 30 seconds at this crappy 100 "dying-like" rpm, and VERY,VERY SLOWLY give it gas, it sort of sluggishly gets up to 1000-1500rpm, then bogs again.

Nothing changed between the 1500rpm drive around the yard, to the shut-off and start up 15sec later.

I'm getting a white smoke from the exhaust. Not a lot, less then when you start the car on a cold morning, but certainly noticable.

D3vin

Hhhmm, how is your coolant doing?

mhohisel

Think the head gaskets not seated properly and its getting coolant into the cylinders?? I'll check it out when I get home. Its strange that it worked at 1500, for a good minute run around the yard. Shut it off and 10 seconds later started funny. I shut it off and started it maybe 3 or 4 more times and each time, same bogging and low idle issue