B16 Engine buildup
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B16 Engine buildup
All right, here's the deal. In January, I am planning on building my motor up, but just have a question about my logic. I am going to get Tein Flex's soon, so I will probably not be able to do the whole buildup all at the same time.
The first thing that I want to do is get the head p/p and a valve job, replace the cams, gears, retainers, springs, and valves. Should I build the bottom end at the same time (as per possible higher revving), or should I just wait until I go forced induction (by next summer)?
All of these things are going to happen for sure, but I don't want to replace the pistons and rods along with the head and loose all of the compression if the stock block is capable of handling the extra revs it may get.
Thanks for any responses that you can offer!
-Shane
The first thing that I want to do is get the head p/p and a valve job, replace the cams, gears, retainers, springs, and valves. Should I build the bottom end at the same time (as per possible higher revving), or should I just wait until I go forced induction (by next summer)?
All of these things are going to happen for sure, but I don't want to replace the pistons and rods along with the head and loose all of the compression if the stock block is capable of handling the extra revs it may get.
Thanks for any responses that you can offer!
-Shane
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Re: B16 Engine buildup (nighttrain33)
I hate doing this, but bump.
I just mainly want to know if you think the bottom end can hold up to the higher rpms that a build head can offer.
-Shane
I just mainly want to know if you think the bottom end can hold up to the higher rpms that a build head can offer.
-Shane
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Re: B16 Engine buildup (TheShad0w)
Since the motor is going to be turbo eventually, with the head built I would like to see not more than 9k. I am looking for a GT35 or similar. I would think that most comparably sized turbos would continue making power at these levels, or else I really wouldn't bother raising the rpms, since my motor doesn't make any more power (stock) that high.
-Shane
-Shane
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Re: B16 Engine buildup (nighttrain33)
If your main goal is to get power from a turbo, I would focus on rods and lower comp pistons before messing w/ the head, since your going to need turbo favorable cams to really meet the rpms/power combo u want. Besides, I dunno how long u have had a b16, but I personally would prefer to tune for middle range power and not highest end, which is possible to achieve w/ enough tuning and fuel mngment. I get tired of reving to 7k+ for power. Not to mention you motor will last longer at like stock rpms unless u plan on getting the block sleeved to prevent breaking under stress on the cylinder walls, piston rings, rods & bearings.
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Re: B16 Engine buildup (TheShad0w)
Oh, don't you worry, it is all going to get done. Block, low comp. pistons, EVERYTHING. I can't wait to start building the turbo kit, but the headwork is less expensive and will help the engine breath a lot better, and the dynamics will flow better as well. Thanks for your responses though.
-Shane
-Shane
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I think what he means is...
The headwork you are getting now.. isn't the headwork you want with a turbosetup.. My vote is, safe up the money and do it all at once.. just enjoy the b16 in it's n/a form with the better suspension.. you can have a lot of fun with the engine, and learn a lot first...
The headwork you are getting now.. isn't the headwork you want with a turbosetup.. My vote is, safe up the money and do it all at once.. just enjoy the b16 in it's n/a form with the better suspension.. you can have a lot of fun with the engine, and learn a lot first...
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Re: (Twiet)
Yeah, I was thinking of that too. You know how it works.
1. You take off the head to have it p/p, the works (maybe $3000 all inclusive). Of course, while the block is exposed you have to
2. Send it out to have it sleeved and replace the internals (prob. about $2500). But of course
3. You can't drive the car with a 9:1 CR, so you might as well turbo it (a good $4000), since you were going to anyways.
Total cost around $10,000 give or take (I know I know it adds up to $9500, but I just wanted to round). That is what worries me.
1. You take off the head to have it p/p, the works (maybe $3000 all inclusive). Of course, while the block is exposed you have to
2. Send it out to have it sleeved and replace the internals (prob. about $2500). But of course
3. You can't drive the car with a 9:1 CR, so you might as well turbo it (a good $4000), since you were going to anyways.
Total cost around $10,000 give or take (I know I know it adds up to $9500, but I just wanted to round). That is what worries me.
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Re: (TheShad0w)
Yeah, but that $4,000 is for a build-it-myself with the said GT35 turbo and parts with Hondata. Hopefully then I can turn up the boost, dyno, and be putting out the big #'s. It'll be well worth the $.
-Shane
-Shane
#11
Re: (nighttrain33)
im not sure how well the stock rods are but if you want to rev to 9k the rods have possibility to fail. They take serious punishment at that rpm. in my oppinion i would do the bottom end first. but its up to you. i going bottom up.
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