B&M fuel gauge/new filter and fuel gauge testing WTF.weird reading before/after??????
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B&M fuel gauge/new filter and fuel gauge testing WTF.weird reading before/after??????
I just installed my new fuel filter and my B&M fuel gauge, i had the gauge installed also before with the old fuel filter.its a 95 civic
i got a question
(With the new fuel filter/B&Mfuel gauge)
if i turn the key on, does the fuel gauge supposed to have a reading. it reads zero psi. is it normal
(with the old fuel filter/B&M fuel gauge) Before with the B&M fuel gauge on key on it slightly had some pressure. or added
( with the new fuel filter/B&M fuel gauge) If the engine is on and then i turn off the key off, is it normal if the fuel gauge drops and reads Zero PSI
(with the old fuel filter/B&M fuel gauge) after engine run then shut off there was some reading before but remains some fuel pressure for awhile and drops to zero after couple of minutes about 1/2 hour. why it holds b4 and w/ new filter it automatically drops zero psi????
Is it normal if the gauge reads zero like this with my new fuel filter/B&M fuel gauge readings???? its funny because i had pressure before after shut off the engine on the fuel gauge with my OLD FUEL FILTER??? WTF???? Why is it like that?????
Help me what is the problem or is it supoosed to be like that with my new filter???
Please feedback
i got a question
(With the new fuel filter/B&Mfuel gauge)
if i turn the key on, does the fuel gauge supposed to have a reading. it reads zero psi. is it normal
(with the old fuel filter/B&M fuel gauge) Before with the B&M fuel gauge on key on it slightly had some pressure. or added
( with the new fuel filter/B&M fuel gauge) If the engine is on and then i turn off the key off, is it normal if the fuel gauge drops and reads Zero PSI
(with the old fuel filter/B&M fuel gauge) after engine run then shut off there was some reading before but remains some fuel pressure for awhile and drops to zero after couple of minutes about 1/2 hour. why it holds b4 and w/ new filter it automatically drops zero psi????
Is it normal if the gauge reads zero like this with my new fuel filter/B&M fuel gauge readings???? its funny because i had pressure before after shut off the engine on the fuel gauge with my OLD FUEL FILTER??? WTF???? Why is it like that?????
Help me what is the problem or is it supoosed to be like that with my new filter???
Please feedback
Last edited by EG-SIXV-TEC; 12-26-2009 at 08:13 PM.
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Re: B&M fuel gauge/new filter and fuel gauge testing WTF.weird reading before/after??
Pls help idk why it doesn't have pressure reading on the gauge after the engine run/key on. Everything is fine.
#3
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Re: B&M fuel gauge/new filter and fuel gauge testing WTF.weird reading before/after??
Have someone turn the key to the ON position and you watch the gauge. It will go to 40psi then to 0. Its non liquid fill so itll drop right away. The fuel pump will shut off when it gives you enough pressure/fuel to start the car. Again it drops to 0 because its not liquid filled. Its free air, sort to speak.
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Re: B&M fuel gauge/new filter and fuel gauge testing WTF.weird reading before/after??
even if its not liquid filled it should NOT drop to zero, no matter what anyone tells you. if its going up to around 40 and then dropping, you have a leak. if it doesnt move at all, the gauge could be clogged. also does the car run since the filter replacement?
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Re: B&M fuel gauge/new filter and fuel gauge testing WTF.weird reading before/after??
Have someone turn the key to the ON position and you watch the gauge. It will go to 40psi then to 0. Its non liquid fill so itll drop right away. The fuel pump will shut off when it gives you enough pressure/fuel to start the car. Again it drops to 0 because its not liquid filled. Its free air, sort to speak.
Also why does it always drop to zero after engine is run then shutting off it seems to hold up before with my old fuel filter????? before with my old fuel filter it reads pressure for maybe 10 minutes or so then it goes zero??????
How do i take out the air bleed it??
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Re: B&M fuel gauge/new filter and fuel gauge testing WTF.weird reading before/after??
drive the car for a while, that should get all the air out. also did you replace all of the crush washers? the pressure will leak down to zero but it should take from several minutes to over an hour.
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Re: B&M fuel gauge/new filter and fuel gauge testing WTF.weird reading before/after??
i replaced the washers, and the top banjo bolt i put the recommended copper washer. Also i put teflon tape around the threads for the gauge side. the car ran the same after the replacement. after the car is run it drops all to zero and like right after i shut off the engine ?? it dosent take several minutes to leak down. that's why im wondering whats wrong the gauge drops to zero right away. before with my old fuel filter the B&M gauge use to hold up pressure and then leak down slowly for along time
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Re: B&M fuel gauge/new filter and fuel gauge testing WTF.weird reading before/after??
The regulator? but i tested it w/ engine running it steady 31psi but when hose removed it rised to about 40 to 41 psi about there?? what could be the problem????
Last edited by EG-SIXV-TEC; 12-27-2009 at 06:49 PM.
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Re: B&M fuel gauge/new filter and fuel gauge testing WTF.weird reading before/after??
What if it drops to zero right after the engine is run , the gauge reads fine in when engine is run and drops zero right after engine is shut off??? idk whats wrong???
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Re: B&M fuel gauge/new filter and fuel gauge testing WTF.weird reading before/after??
i think its suposed to be higher than that. 40 somthing at idle vacuum and near 60 when unhooked if i remember correctly.
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Re: B&M fuel gauge/new filter and fuel gauge testing WTF.weird reading before/after??
Actually, I encountered something similar recently on one of my Hondas. It appears after reading my Haynes manual #42024 that Civic pressure is supposed to be 28-36psi with vacuum attached at idle, and 38-46psi with vacuum disconnected at idle. For starters I have a B&M Fuel Pressure Gauge, and a B&M CommandFlo Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator. I can tell you from experience that on two of my Hondas, with a air-core B&M Fuel Pressure Gauge on top of my fuel filter, as soon as the key is turned to the KeyOnEngineOff position, the fuel pump activates, the pumps the gauge up, and holds steady until engine is started. Then while it idles I watch the gauge, it responds as per spec, then after I shut the car off, pressure remains for a while. Now different gauges respond differently whether you have an air-core or a liquid-filled, mostly the difference is whether or not the gauge vibrates at idle or not. The liquid acts as a damper against pulsation and vibration making the readings more consistent. If the pressure is dropping, you might have a small-moderate leak somewhere, or a leaking injector that isn't sealing properly. Another point of concern is your using teflon tape on fuel fittings. Teflon tape doesn't work for most automotive liquids, it's actually designed for compressed air and water fittings, and does degrade under gasoline and many liquids on the car. Hope this helps.
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Re: B&M fuel gauge/new filter and fuel gauge testing WTF.weird reading before/after??
honda factory service manual says 31-38psi at idle vacuum, and 40-47psi with vacuum hose removed. apparently i remembered incorrectly.
basically it comes down to this, either the gauge is bad or you have a leak.
watch the gauge drop to zero then loosen the banjo bolt. if fuel sprays, the gauge is bad. if it doesnt, you have a leak. assuming you have checked everywhere for external leaks (filter, connections, lines, weird cap on the rail), your leak has to be going either inside the manifold or inside the tank. go to the junkyard and grab like 5 regulators and 8 injectors (make sure they accept returns). change the regulators first and make sure that none of them fix your problem. then change out all the injectors (as sets first, then one at a time) and see if any of them fixes your problem. if an injector set fixes it, use the process of elimination to see which one(s) were bad, and return any parts you didnt need. IF that doesnt fix it, you either have a leak somewhere between the fuel pump and the pressure line under the back seat, meaning the leak is in the tank itself, which is doubtfull OR you got horribly unlucky and chose injectors/regulators that were all bad.
total cost? zero. time spent? 2 hours. finding the problem? priceless.
basically it comes down to this, either the gauge is bad or you have a leak.
watch the gauge drop to zero then loosen the banjo bolt. if fuel sprays, the gauge is bad. if it doesnt, you have a leak. assuming you have checked everywhere for external leaks (filter, connections, lines, weird cap on the rail), your leak has to be going either inside the manifold or inside the tank. go to the junkyard and grab like 5 regulators and 8 injectors (make sure they accept returns). change the regulators first and make sure that none of them fix your problem. then change out all the injectors (as sets first, then one at a time) and see if any of them fixes your problem. if an injector set fixes it, use the process of elimination to see which one(s) were bad, and return any parts you didnt need. IF that doesnt fix it, you either have a leak somewhere between the fuel pump and the pressure line under the back seat, meaning the leak is in the tank itself, which is doubtfull OR you got horribly unlucky and chose injectors/regulators that were all bad.
total cost? zero. time spent? 2 hours. finding the problem? priceless.
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Re: B&M fuel gauge/new filter and fuel gauge testing WTF.weird reading before/after??
honda factory service manual says 31-38psi at idle vacuum, and 40-47psi with vacuum hose removed. apparently i remembered incorrectly.
basically it comes down to this, either the gauge is bad or you have a leak.
watch the gauge drop to zero then loosen the banjo bolt. if fuel sprays, the gauge is bad. if it doesnt, you have a leak. assuming you have checked everywhere for external leaks (filter, connections, lines, weird cap on the rail), your leak has to be going either inside the manifold or inside the tank. go to the junkyard and grab like 5 regulators and 8 injectors (make sure they accept returns). change the regulators first and make sure that none of them fix your problem. then change out all the injectors (as sets first, then one at a time) and see if any of them fixes your problem. if an injector set fixes it, use the process of elimination to see which one(s) were bad, and return any parts you didnt need. IF that doesnt fix it, you either have a leak somewhere between the fuel pump and the pressure line under the back seat, meaning the leak is in the tank itself, which is doubtfull OR you got horribly unlucky and chose injectors/regulators that were all bad.
total cost? zero. time spent? 2 hours. finding the problem? priceless.
basically it comes down to this, either the gauge is bad or you have a leak.
watch the gauge drop to zero then loosen the banjo bolt. if fuel sprays, the gauge is bad. if it doesnt, you have a leak. assuming you have checked everywhere for external leaks (filter, connections, lines, weird cap on the rail), your leak has to be going either inside the manifold or inside the tank. go to the junkyard and grab like 5 regulators and 8 injectors (make sure they accept returns). change the regulators first and make sure that none of them fix your problem. then change out all the injectors (as sets first, then one at a time) and see if any of them fixes your problem. if an injector set fixes it, use the process of elimination to see which one(s) were bad, and return any parts you didnt need. IF that doesnt fix it, you either have a leak somewhere between the fuel pump and the pressure line under the back seat, meaning the leak is in the tank itself, which is doubtfull OR you got horribly unlucky and chose injectors/regulators that were all bad.
total cost? zero. time spent? 2 hours. finding the problem? priceless.
then i did took out the neg. batt. cable etc. also removed the vacuum hose. tried taking off the banjio bolt pressure gauge and no fuel came out. all along i taught fuel injectors, or the reg, check valve bad etc??? inspected visually none leak. then installed batt cable back and crack the key to on position with fuel to let air come out. drained in a bucket i did couple times and just took off key. then i put the banjio bolt on back and gauge. an crossed my fingers
For some reason when i started the car again key on the pressure seems to hold i think 30psi or so?? and then started the the car -(forgot that the pressure regulator vacuum hose was off) for a good 3 minutes.
The pressure i think was about 40Psi or 39 psi i forgot to put back the regulator at the time. Then i turned off the engine YESS IT hold PRESSURE!!! i was gonna pinch the return line to check if its holding but it already had pressure.
Then until now it seems okay there's fricken residual pressure holding now- mayb reg was Stuck open that time????? even w/the vacuum hose attached???
idk its weird when i had my old fuel filter and B&M gauge together it worked fine and now w/ the new fuel filter its now working fine again???
what could of been the problem anyway??
Should i change anything,
If anything thanks guys
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