UltimateAmature

Im taking the D series out of my 98 hatch i just got replacing with a b series, when it came time to take the axels off one side the axel nut/hub nut whatever the proper term is, one side was fairly simple but on the other i tried everything to get that nut off in the end i just said screw it and cut the axel in 2 because i need new ones anyways, has anyone ran into this before if so what did you try. i dont want to end up having to do this again.

hannslebo

You cut it in half? Soo...wouldn't the half that you cut still be connected to the wheel?

I would have just soaked it in PB blaster and used a long cheater/breaker bar. I've never had a axle nut not come off with a breaker bar. Never even had to soak it with PB.

hannslebo

You're talking about this large nut in the middle, right?

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Brute force. Breaker bars. Power tools.

HondaPartsHero

I've had some stiff axle nuts you need some strong air guns and pb blaster

Former User

PB Blaster is your friend.

Thread titles MUST summarize the tech problem so that members browsing titles can easily understand the problem without reading the post -- Title edited.

Libertariat

PB blaster is a life saver. Not sure whether or not I would have had trouble anyway, but a couple days prior to redoing my suspension I just hit all the important bolts 2-3 times with PB blaster. Had no issues removing and suspension bolts.

jerimrc

i use anti seize before installing axle bolt. never had a problem with it.

Cap'N Chronic

I had the same problem with my 98 Civic. Snapped two breaker bars before I decided to borrow an impact gun from a friend. Get some liquid wrench and soak it in it and let it sit for a while.

Kista20

I've always gotten mine off just using an air gun and an impact socket just make sure you unstake that nut before you try and loosen it.

You at least did do that first?

Angel23

if PB Blaster doesnt work heat the nut up with a torch til its red hot. the nut is thinner so it will heat and expand quicker than the axle will and then just break it free with a breaker bar and a pipe

element600rr

do not torch it till its glowing red unless you plan on doing a wheel bearing while your at it ( that much heat in that area will boil the bearing grease and cause it to fail ) .. spray it down with pb or a similar product let it sit for a few hrs .. use a good 1/2 in impact if that dosnt do the trick a 3ft breaker bar will do the trick every time .. even if the threads come with it it will come i promise ..

alphalanos

im usually able to get it with the car on the ground with the wheel on, have someone sit inside and hold the brake. use a long 3/4 in drive breaker bar with a pipe on it, then just lean and pull on it until it cracks loose.

sde780

Impact always worked for me. I usually don't even unstake it because the tips on my screwdrivers get bent. Impact takes care of that

Kista20

Screwdrivers are not made for that and this is why they make punches and chisels.

UltimateAmature

i used one and ended up snapping the 3/4in drive. I had someone holding the break as well like i said man i tried it all. The other side though was simple one quick snap with the powerbar and it was loose. i dont wanna have to end up cutting axels again and replacing my hub assembly haha i appreciate the advice from everyone.

UltimateAmature

yup i did. i did the other side first it come off pretty simple. this is why i couldnt understand why the other side was so stubborn. both were stock and never touched before.

UltimateAmature

yeah man sounds just like my day, snapped a bunch of stuff.. not to mention i soaked both nuts with penetrating oil let them sit while i undone all the electrical.

UltimateAmature

Sorry about that. Thank you,

PushnFords

If all else fails and you don't want to torch it use a sharp chisel and hammer a groove in the nut parallel to the axle. That will expand the nut and loosen it. You might have to switch to an SAE socket to get it over the expanded nut though. Either do it with the car on the ground with the wheel on or supporting the rotor/knuckle so you don't loose hammer force in suspension rebound.

tdchonda1

This may sound stupid, but...

make sure you are turning "counter clock wise"

spray down nut with PB.

if you do not have air tools and do not have anyone to help holding the brakes, put a screwdriver in the brake rotor vents next to the brake caliper.

get a long breaker bar and give it hell.

Good luck.

RedHatch00

mine gave me a problem, we used a torch pb blaster and air tools and finally gave out after an hr

vartok

yeah, been there... Ended up having to pick up a 4' iron pipe to use as a cheater pipe. That with a shot of PB and mine poped off like it was nothing

farfrumugen

mix automatic transmission fluid and acetone in a 50/50 mix. put it in a spray bottle and soak the area. just be careful not to get the fluid mix on your paint or rubber surfaces. 10x better than pb blaster and you probably wont even need a breaker bar.
adam jeffery

98ekb18c

The worst I ever ran into was a jeep. Needed a breaker bar and a 6' pipe. It finally popped loose when I stood on the end of the pipe. Make sure not to over tighten it when you put I back together.