WEIRD REAR TOE-IN SITUATION! EK with 5 Lug Conversion.
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WEIRD REAR TOE-IN SITUATION! EK with 5 Lug Conversion.
Guys and gals, I am at a loss for words on what to do with my Civic. I have a 2000 Civic CX with a 5 Lug conversion using ASR Rear Subframe Brace, Koni Yellows and Stock ITR Springs. The 5 Lug hubs were placed on the stock CX trailing arms. The car has never been wrecked. The problem is that car aligned just fine before the install. Now i have taken it to 2 places to have it aligned. They both tell me that the toe is negative on the driver's side at full positive adjustment. I just cant figure it out. I swapped the trailing arm out from a friend's 1996 CX. Still negative. -0.14 degrees is what the print out says. I am lost here. I mean if the car had damage I'd understand but... I checked for a worn out bushing but on a car with 54K on it??
ANY IDEAS WHAT ON EARTH IS CAUSING THIS???
-John
BTW Looking at the print out, it says the Passenger side is +.20 degrees which is also out fo spec. where as it was fine before. Notation at the bottom says "bolt stuck in adjuster". I swear....
Thank you in advance. All advice welcome.
I did also search for similar instances of toe problems. I was thinking maybe this was swap specific. If a repeat I appoligize for not researching further.
ANY IDEAS WHAT ON EARTH IS CAUSING THIS???
-John
BTW Looking at the print out, it says the Passenger side is +.20 degrees which is also out fo spec. where as it was fine before. Notation at the bottom says "bolt stuck in adjuster". I swear....
Thank you in advance. All advice welcome.
I did also search for similar instances of toe problems. I was thinking maybe this was swap specific. If a repeat I appoligize for not researching further.
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Re: (Dimi)
Yeah I thought about that too. I owned the whole wrecked ITR it came off of and long story short, there isnt anyway that part could have been bent. But yes you are right....i thought about that since its the same way on both my original and friends trailing arm. Just seems like if the hub was bent i'd get vibrations and etc etc.
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Re: (quicksilverej6)
I just thought of this too....
I noticed the camber on the car was WAY negative (which is rediculous considering the car isnt dropped at all) So I did the washer trick this AM with a longer bolt and 2 washers that are rather thick in my opinion. The camber is still -1.2 in the rear. So I'm kinda lost why after that much correction its still negative? Dont know if the 2 coorilate but worth a shot.
-John
I noticed the camber on the car was WAY negative (which is rediculous considering the car isnt dropped at all) So I did the washer trick this AM with a longer bolt and 2 washers that are rather thick in my opinion. The camber is still -1.2 in the rear. So I'm kinda lost why after that much correction its still negative? Dont know if the 2 coorilate but worth a shot.
-John
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Re: (quicksilverej6)
Hmmm Where the hubs installed in the trailing arm using a hydraulic press? I believe that is the only good way to do it. 2 ton hydraulic bearing/bushing press. That boggles my mind as well. Maybe have them check it, drive it off the rack, drive it around a little and pull it back on. This would possible show you if a hub was misaligned.
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Re: (HondaFanatic708)
This was a complete assembly it just bolts on using 3 or 4 bolts to the trailing arm. Not sure how the press would be used.... maybe I am wrong.
Good idea though!
-John
Good idea though!
-John
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Re: (quicksilverej6)
Looking at adjustable TOE-Links. Did a few searches. Cant find many people with opinions. Hmm. I think that might be my only real choice. Band aid or not.'
-John
-John
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Re: (stormy)
yeah we tried that the first go round. The ITR trailing arms were setting the car at +1.2 camber on both sides. I also tried the ITR upper dog bones but they made no difference. Which is just nuts. I did some searching and thats not uncommon with EKs. SO were back to the CX trailing arms. I think the adjustable TOE-Links are gonna be the deal. Anyone know where to buy those at the best price??
-John
-John
#12
Re: (quicksilverej6)
my Ls brakes are like that my rear disk, i got them really cheap
and my left must of hit a tire or something the camber is like .5 off, it's not a big deal, but the tire wears faster then the rest.
and my left must of hit a tire or something the camber is like .5 off, it's not a big deal, but the tire wears faster then the rest.
#13
I had the same problem doing my 5 lug conversion on my ek. I found that one of the itr trailing arms were bent. I did exactly what you did, switched over the hub to my old trailing arm and I just bought some srr toe adjuster kits and that fixed my problem. Got an alignment and everything is within specs now.
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Re: (quicksilverej6)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by quicksilverej6 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This was a complete assembly it just bolts on using 3 or 4 bolts to the trailing arm. Not sure how the press would be used.... maybe I am wrong.
Good idea though!
-John</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah in this case you wouldn't press anything in. When I do a 5 lug on my EG I will press new wheel bearings on there just because. I have seen people who have used a hammer and punch to try to get the bearing in there right. Not a good idea. It sounds like something is bent or not lined up correctly. Good luck either way.
Good idea though!
-John</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah in this case you wouldn't press anything in. When I do a 5 lug on my EG I will press new wheel bearings on there just because. I have seen people who have used a hammer and punch to try to get the bearing in there right. Not a good idea. It sounds like something is bent or not lined up correctly. Good luck either way.
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Re: (quicksilverej6)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by quicksilverej6 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">DOES ANYONE KNOW WHERE TO BUY THOSE SRR TOE KITS FROM??
-John</TD></TR></TABLE>
don;t bothere with SRR. i have to see anything from srr that isn;t complete garbage. i had a set of camber adjusters that fell apart after 6,000 miles.
i bought a set of suspension techniques adjustable toe links, and they work perfect. you can get them from options for about $150 Item # ST-57400.
http://www.optauto.com/index.h...age=9
-John</TD></TR></TABLE>
don;t bothere with SRR. i have to see anything from srr that isn;t complete garbage. i had a set of camber adjusters that fell apart after 6,000 miles.
i bought a set of suspension techniques adjustable toe links, and they work perfect. you can get them from options for about $150 Item # ST-57400.
http://www.optauto.com/index.h...age=9
#17
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Re: (HondaFanatic708)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HondaFanatic708 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> When I do a 5 lug on my EG I will press new wheel bearings on there just because. </TD></TR></TABLE>
you do not press rear wheel bearing in. they are part of the hub. you replace the entire hub when you do the bearing. just a fyi
you do not press rear wheel bearing in. they are part of the hub. you replace the entire hub when you do the bearing. just a fyi
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