Sodaholic

Alright, so i have a few questions so ill try to make this as organized as possible. I posted this at honda-swap also...

For my auto to manual swap i used this thread...
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/%5Bfaq%5D-96-00-auto-manual-swap-full-detail-44pics-1337459/

For my y8 throttle body installation i used these sites in addition to ALLDATA for wiring and hoses.
http://www.d-series.org/forums/diy-f...ap-pics-4.html
and
http://www.d-series.org/forums/engin...d-onto-y7.html


A little background on my car,
I have a 99 Civic VP which was stock aside from a short ram intake. Tranny went out so i decided to swap to manual. Did the swap including a manual y8 intake w/ a felpro gasket, and P2E-A12, rewired the IACV and d-pinned the harness. Tried starting the car and it was running rough (later found out my friend mixed up the plug wires) and threw P0505 for the iacv. I blocked off the holes with a sheet of gasket paper and rewired back to 3-wires and installed the y7 throttle body, fixed firing order.

Now that it's running, it will start and idle normal for a few seconds then revs up and drops, then revs up and drops, The iacv hole is also very loud and when i cover the larger portion of it, the idle drops to normal. So i cleaned it and wiggled the rotor a little to make sure it wasn't stuck, but the problem remained. Although, when i remove the plug from my tps the idle settles but doesn't have the same power.

I will be testing their voltages and all that tomorrow if my homie comes through with a multimeter. I am other wise wondering about the whole ecu deal. I have already purchased two ECUs, one OBD2a on accident, the second(the P2E-A12) which is a non-vtec 3-wire ECU. If my iacv is bad, i would hate to buy a new one when there is one bolted to the back of the throttle body.

So my questions now, .

First, would it be cheaper to find another ECU that is 2-wire? and which one would i get? I went through this list
http://hondaswap.com/reference-mater...cu-list-29129/
in addition to this list
http://www.hondata.com/vehicles.html

The ECUs suggested in the first link are all vtec, but i don't have a vtec and don't want to be throwing vtec codes at the smog man. Also are OBDII-->OBDI jumpers legal in California? In case I am required to get one.

Also, i adjusted my valve lash and I torqued my cam pulley bolt to 45lb*ft, later finding out its only 27lb*ft. Should i just leave it, replace it with a new one, or back it out an re torque it to spec?

And my coil went out last night(confirmed with test light), any one have good experiences buying them online? or with those transparent cap and rotor kits?

If you made it to here, your almost done reading and i love you. I hope you have some answeres or enlightnement to my situation.

Thanks for reading,
George

Former User

Idle problem - Are any CEL codes currently thrown?

Sodaholic

I am Currently in need of a new coil and rotor but have no money so the car is not running. After switching to the 3 wire iacv it never threw a code unless unplugged. On my last test drive I was getting 2 codes, P1129 and P1129(with a Pd next to it). Which seems to mean that there is too much air according the the MAP sensor. But now its dead, so ill play with it when i can get some money for a coil and rotor. And will be able to do more tests, for now imma compression check and fiddle around.

Sodaholic

All problems have been fixed. Most posts done mention to completely dissemble the IACV. its run by magnets and needs to be able to move freely via the magnetic rotor.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G-mwd5VJKt8 is the video that i followed. This is for rotary 3-wire iacv.

Now for the over heating and ecu not resetting problems.