90AccordVTEC

Is there a way to convert an auto p28 ecu to a manual so i dont have a CEL? It shows up as code 19 which is the lockup for auto tranny's, but we have the ecu in a manual car. Thanks.

-Chris

Ace0246

yes there is. you can do this yourself if you have experience soldering/delsoldering or you can get someone else to do it if you are more comfortable going that route. the general rule of thumb, is to desolder (or cut) RP17 on the ECU, and then solder in a jumper wire across the RP18 leads. If you can desolder, you'll be good to go, otherwise, might be best to get someone else to do it. I can do this, and I wouldn't charge much for converting auto to manual. That's easy enough. Good luck with the conversion either way you go.

90AccordVTEC

thanks for the help. Can i use the jumper removed from rp17 on the rp18 spot?

RedStar101

you can also pin out two plugs and ground them out on the ecu plug and it wont throw an codes

90AccordVTEC

Can i solder the jumper removed from RP17 to the RP18 slot since it will need a jumper wire?

Ace0246

you need a jumper wire. there are two resistors that have to come out (RP17 and RP18) and then a Jumper needs to be soldered in to RP18 so that there is no resistance across those terminals. The presence of resistance is what switches the ECU into Automatic mode.

edit: it's late. If you have a jumper wire in RP17 (0-Ohm resistor (one black stripe) i can't recall from my visual memory an Auto P28 right now) then you can use it and solder it into RP18 and you're good to go. Another idea, is that if both RP17 and RP18 are resistors (colored stripes across both) then just solder in a jumper wire to RP18 after removing both. I can do this operation for you, but the shipping would probably cost more than the soldering work.


Modified by Ace0246 at 2:01 AM 10/12/2005

90AccordVTEC

Thanks alot for the info. So if it doesnt have the 0-ohm resistor in RP17 i have to use a jumper wire on RP18. So is a jumper wire just a piece of plain wire soldered across those terminals?

Ace0246

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90AccordVTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks alot for the info. So if it doesnt have the 0-ohm resistor in RP17 i have to use a jumper wire on RP18.</TD></TR></TABLE>

correct.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90AccordVTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So is a jumper wire just a piece of plain wire soldered across those terminals?</TD></TR></TABLE>

It can be, but is better to be a solid piece of wire (like if you clipped a leg off a new resistor). The braided wire just gets messy when you solder it and is nowhere near as clean. ideally you would use this solid piece of wire, solder it, then clip off the excess underneath the board. you will be wanting to solder to the terminals on the underside of the board, so it's a good idea to make sure and use plenty of desoldering braid and heat (but not too much heat) to get all the old solder out, and replace it with new solder. it's important to place your jumper wire in, bring it to the back side of the board, bend the legs left and right to hold it in place, then solder them in, clipping the excess wire after you're finished. if you are still uncomfortable doing this, i can do it or at least send you a 0-ohm resistor to do it right (for what the going price is on a stamp!). good luck.