Mario.

This is ******* pissing me off!!!

Ok... I've bled several hundred mL's of brake fluid through... nothing. I installed a new slave cylinder today because the car would not go in gear and it wasn't actuating far enough.

I tried a vacuum pump... nope. I tried having someone pump the pedal five times and hold it. Nope. I tried opening the bleeder, and pushing the pedal down and closing the bleeder... nope.

At best I get it bled enough to where it barely slips into gear... but ARGH. I am so frusterated what am I doing wrong?!?!

JDM_Ej

I dont think its your slave dude. Sounds like a problem with your clutch or the transmission itself. I have bled my slave cylinder by myself before, with no problems.

Lord Helmet

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mario. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This is ******* pissing me off!!!

Ok... I've bled several hundred mL's of brake fluid through... nothing. I installed a new slave cylinder today because the car would not go in gear and it wasn't actuating far enough.

I tried a vacuum pump... nope. I tried having someone pump the pedal five times and hold it. Nope. I tried opening the bleeder, and pushing the pedal down and closing the bleeder... nope.
At best I get it bled enough to where it barely slips into gear... but ARGH. I am so frusterated what am I doing wrong?!?! </TD></TR></TABLE>

You're doing it the wrong way. The key to properly bleed the system of air is to make sure the end that shoots out the fluid is place in a brake fluid container filled with brake fluid. That way no air is getting sucked back into the system when you pull the pedal back up.

Bleeding the clutch MC is actually a one people job. Just make sure the MC is filled with brake fluid at all times and the hose that the old brake fluid is coming out of is submerged in a container filled with brake fluid, that way no air bubbles can go back into the system. Simple, done

BTW the clutch "could" be out of alignment, checked the clutch with the clutch aligment tool yet?

JDM_Ej

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lord Helmet &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You're doing it the wrong way. The key to properly bleed the system of air is to make sure the end that shoots out the fluid is place in a brake fluid container filled with brake fluid. That way no air is getting sucked back into the system when you pull the pedal back up.

Bleeding the clutch MC is actually a one people job. Just make sure the MC is filled with brake fluid at all times and the hose that the old brake fluid is coming out of is submerged in a container filled with brake fluid, that way no air bubbles can go back into the system. Simple, done </TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree. If you do it that way and are still having a problem, might want to check into other possibilities.

dognutz

You might need a clutch master cylinder. I was having similar issues and that seemed to fix it. The sure sign is a small trail of fluid inside the car where the mastercylinder comes into the fire wall. I have been told that it is a good idea to replace both the M.C. and the slave together. They are not expensive and easy to install.

Mario.

Thanks everyone.

The Master Cylinder is two months old and it's not leaking fluid. I don't think it's that.

BTW the pedal has a weird "empty" spot on it near the top... like the pedal will not fully retract back in line with the brake pedal. Do I need to adjust it maybe??

hybridgs

3 weeks ago i had this problem. here we go:

immediately replaced slave cylinder, car was money for a day, then went to ****, again. would not go in to gear at all. okay, so....

replaced master couple days later. good for a day! but........ same problem. thought i was bleeding it wrong, was on here for several days and got great answers on bleeding clutch correctly. then took it to have bleeding done by a mechanic friend. well! same problem.

wrd, lets drain the trans fluid, replace to correct level, try bleeding again, check the linkage

well, problem still there ::****::

yesterday-bought exedy organic, gets installed tonight. there is nothing else it could be. i will again keep posting with my issues, hopefully tomarrow will be my last on the topic.

so, im thinking you might want to check the clutch alignment if the clutch is in good condition. or linkage, maybe you bottomed out and bent/knocked something loose or out of line. good luck!

Mario.

Right on man thanks for posting! I'm gonna have a friend help me bleed it tonight who knows his Honda **** and we'll go from there. But yea man... it's getting annoying. lol

dognutz

My M.C cylinder was probalby less than 2 months old. There was no trail of fluid on the inside this time either. Every time I got in the car thought the pedal was closer to the floor and clutch action was less and less. I was like WTF, Everything new when done 2 months ago. New clutch new slave and master cylinders. Last week the problem began. Over the weekend I replaced the M.C. and every thing is good.
If you are clean when installing and this is not the problem you could always return the part. This part is easier to change and cheaper than the clutch. Which it may very well be. I had a vibration dampener spring rip out of the clutch disc causing bad clutch action. Then I replaced all the parts: clutch, M.C., and the slave at the same time. I forgot to keep the warrenty or else I could have changed the bad one out for free . Lesson learned I didn't think they could go bad so fast.

Mario.

Crazy. Well I guess I'll get that replaced too.